peripateticmike
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Posts: 140
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Registered: Feb 25, 2018 10:09:30 GMT -7
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Post by peripateticmike on Sept 24, 2018 17:47:08 GMT -7
I bought it with the exhaust already on it so I can't compare. I don't notice any unpleasant vibrations in the bars.
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fastback89
Junior Member
Posts: 88
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Registered: Sept 10, 2017 4:01:52 GMT -7
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Post by fastback89 on Sept 25, 2018 17:00:56 GMT -7
Thanks
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Post by evitzee on Oct 3, 2018 18:21:32 GMT -7
Got the bike safety inspected (TX), then had a nice 125 mi ride, sunny skies and temp about 85, but we've had about 10 inches of rain the last month and there is a huge new crop of late bugs, but the fields are green, the rivers flowing, and the livestock look happy. Then when I got home I changed the oil and filter, had about 3,500 miles on the oil but it was just about a year ago so time to change it. I had a replacement KN-204 filter that I got direct from K&N after their recall last year of defective filters so am confident it won't leak like the defective ones did. Put a new soft aluminum washer on the Gold Plug and filled the sump with about 4.25 qts of Yamalube 15W-50 full synthetic. The magnet on the plug had just a fine film of magnetic particles on it, hardly any at all so it doesn't appear our engines are shedding much in the way of iron. Used oil still looked good. All set for cooler weather and year round riding here in Central Texas. Deer season started Oct 1 (bow) and then full blown hunting Nov 1, so always on the lookout for the dear little deers.
While I was on the ground changing the oil I realized my 13 year old RaceDeck flooring was getting pretty grungy, so today I cleaned and degreased it. Looks much better.
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Deleted
Posts: 0
Registered: Nov 25, 2024 21:32:39 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Oct 4, 2018 8:46:50 GMT -7
May I ask why 15/50 and not 10/40, especially now that is getting cooler? I saw both listed in the manual, so OK, but if oil consumption is not an issue, I'd use 10/40. And I live in hot TX too (El Paso, though). Already have the MP-02 magnetic plug in hand, but I'm debating on which filter to use. Some folks use the M1-110A, which is longer than stock, but I'm skeptical to use a car filter without knowing the specs of the bypass valve (super important). Since bikes require heavier oils (20/30 vs 40/50), it could allow bypassing. If I don't find specific info, will stick to OEM filters, like I typically do just for that reason: they have the proper bypass valve. And to contribute to the subject at hand, installed the Graves slip-on after removing the metal decal (a PITA), installed a full set of Shogun frame/axle/swingarm sliders, installed a Vagabond tail tidy, reset all suspension settings (except rear preload) to slightly softer ones, and installed an Ogio tailbag, with the bike showing all of 8 miles on the odo. Taking it out later on to test it. And later today waiting for the Grab-on grips, battery charger pigtail, and radiator grilles. And Friday should get the Pazzo levers. And next week the comfort seat and quick shifter. Should be done with the bike after that . But then need to order the 2 stands, chock, and platform to put the bike on my truck, hopefully in time to hit the Hill Country before the riding season is over. Have a great day.
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Post by evitzee on Oct 4, 2018 9:49:15 GMT -7
^^^ Fair question. For years I used Shell Rotella T6, which is a 5W-40 weight, with no real issues in any of my bikes. But a lot of wear happens in the first few seconds of a cold startup and I was just not that happy with the thought of a 5W weight when Yamaha was recommending nothing lower than a 10W minimum weight. I stopped by the Yamaha dealer and he gave me a good price on the Yamalube 15W-50. I have a four year warranty on the bike so figured if I use their oil they would have a harder time rejecting any claims related to the engine, which I don't expect to have anyway. And Yamaha doesn't make a full synthetic 10W-40 so if you want that weight you'll have to use another brand. Even though we are getting into cooler weather these engines do spin hard so I don't think a 15W-50 is too heavy even for winter use. I usually won't ride if the temp drops below 50 degrees.
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Post by achrista on Oct 5, 2018 21:26:13 GMT -7
Abridged shot of my parts tracker: w/ the comfort seat I hit ~$3k in <1 year. If I keep at this pace i'll have been able to purchase a tuono factory by march. I'd still pick a yamaha for reliability and easy of maintenance. the 1 thing I think i really overpaid for was the exhaust. I think i need to get a bench flash kit and befriend a dyno shop to make it worth it. on the mod list for this winter i have a brake job (SS lines, radial MC, aesthetically pleasant reservoir) and that's about it until I get rich and bored enough to drop big $$$ on a suspension upgrade. As for what I did today -- I stiffened up the front suspension. I used figures from the forum to dial it in and it feels much better around town -- still nothing high speed or aggressive yet. I need to enlist my gf to help me take sag measurements to get the rear in good shape. I am not all that comfortable working on suspension because I have no hands on experience, but it seems pretty intuitive. I still miss my r6 stock suspension.
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Deleted
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Registered: Nov 25, 2024 21:32:39 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Oct 6, 2018 8:55:34 GMT -7
Hey Achrista, a heads-up and a 2 questions. The heads-up first: check your radiator grilles for contact on the finned area. Mine were more expensive ($120), from Amazon, but weren't shaped properly (only the Evotechs fit right, apparently). Had to mess with the upper one for hours to make it clear the finned area all over. Now my 2 questions. First: Do engine cases necessary when you have a full slider set? I bought the Shogun set since they have no markings/decals, which in theory should protect the engine cases in the event of a fall, but don't have a buddy or two to slowly drop the bike on both sides to prove that. By the way, I'd like to 'drop' it on the right side to see if my Graves slip-on clears when the peg feeler touches, although it might be different under load. And my second question: Was the comfort seat worth the expense? Have read many negative reviews to make it a slam dunk. In addition, with only 31" inseam, don't want it too much higher than stock, to still be able to reach safely. That's why I took the Corbin out of consideration; looks HUGE. Thanks man. And yes, this mod business gets expensive fast. I'm at $1,300 in the first week. Ha ha. But only have left the seat, as far as bike mods. But still have to buy the 2 stands, a chock, and a platform for my truck to haul it, so will get to $2K in another week. Hope that's the end. Not going to mess with the engine, and I'm almost sure I'll be fine with the stock suspension with my 160#.
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Post by achrista on Oct 6, 2018 17:03:33 GMT -7
Thanks for the heads up on the rad covers.
Regarding the case covers -- I don't know if they're ever necessary, but i know stoltec moto put case sliders on in addiction to frame sliders and Axle sliders. He's got an engineering background and I don't so I'd defer. I would imagine that it's possible that one could crash in a way that the oem covers make contact with the road. I really like the look of our CP4 embossed covers, and unfortunately they're covered up, but my thought is at least they'll be in like-new condition if I drop the bike.
Regarding the Comfort seat -- it just arrived in the mail today so I haven't had the chance to do any extensive riding on it. I'll be going out tomorrow and putting a few miles on so I'll have a better idea. I've generally heard good things about the comfort seat and I have the same concerns as we're just about the same height. I will tell you that it's no longer as easy to flatfoot at stop (even in Boots), but that is not that important to me. The Corbin is functionally and aesthetically way too large for my tastes, and I didn't want to mess with reupholstering my seat which a third-party kit may require.
I would think that the OEM suspension should be fine at 160. although everyone who's done a suspension upgrade here and on YouTube swears by it.
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Post by stoltecmoto on Oct 6, 2018 20:47:06 GMT -7
Thanks for the heads up on the rad covers. Regarding the case covers -- I don't know if they're ever necessary, but i know stoltec moto put case sliders on in addiction to frame sliders and Axle sliders. He's got an engineering background and I don't so I'd defer. I would imagine that it's possible that one could crash in a way or the case is make contact with the road. I really like the look of our CP4 embossed covers, and unfortunately they're covered up, but my thought is at least they'll be in like-new condition if I drop the bike. Regarding the Comfort seat -- it just arrived in the mail today so I haven't had the chance to do any extensive riding on it. I'll be going out tomorrow and putting a few miles on so I'll have a better idea. I've generally heard good things about the Comfort seat and I have the same concerns as we're just about the same height. I will tell you that it's no longer as easy to flatfoot at stop (even in Boots), but that is not that important to me. The Corbin is functionally an aesthetic way too large for my tastes, and I didn't want to mess with reupholstering my seat which a third-party kit may require. I would think that the OEM suspension should be fine at 160. although everyone who's not suspension upgrade here and on YouTube swears by it. As we all know, every crash is different. Some don't have any case contact, while others do. There's no way to predict. That said, the real beauty of a case slider is that they tend to keep the cases in tact and leak-free. If something unfortunate happens far away from home or at the race track, keeping the engine sealed is an obvious boon. Different bike, but here's a picture of what happend on our FZ-09 a few years ago during a sudden rainstorm at Summit Point (Jefferson circuit): And here's a shot of our FZ-10 right after the side stand pushed through some fresh tar and chip during an impromptu rain gear stop: Not a scratch to the engine resulting from either of those two incidents. I know there is a scratch on the FZ-09 case in that picture, but I swear it was there before the crash!
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Post by achrista on Oct 18, 2018 19:50:43 GMT -7
i like that the woodcraft sliders offer full protection while still allowing you to see the whole case. i keep saying i'm done w/ mods, but then i realize there's so much to be done.
as for what I did today -- I put my heated grips on, routed all the wires and got extra zip ties so everything so was clean, started reattaching the upper fairing, and on my second to last fastener I dropped a screw and spacer into the frame and only the spacer fell out. I saw the screw roll into the frame above the engine. I probably spent 90 minutes with an LED magnetic pickup trying to find the thing without taking off the tank. finally, I pulled my active tune cable out of the way and it was sitting plain as day on top of the engine heat shield. a massive waste of time for a rookie mistake, but I was glad to get it without driving to a dealership in hopes that they had the part.
you can bet i had everything perfectly aligned on take 2.
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Deleted
Posts: 0
Registered: Nov 25, 2024 21:32:39 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Oct 22, 2018 11:19:57 GMT -7
They look good, and with a much more precise measuring scale. Did you put the recommended 137 ft/lbs of torque? Some areas look a bit thin, but hopefully strong enough not to deform. Found these on Amazon, but don't like the spools: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078Z9JR74/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=AF2KZ2PCI71VL&psc=1And to contribute to the subject, got a Trackside front chock (Revzilla) for my bike, but need to assemble it. Cost me $40 with a discount and ZillaCash, so not bad .
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morbo
Full Member
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Registered: Feb 26, 2018 7:27:44 GMT -7
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Post by morbo on Oct 22, 2018 11:48:52 GMT -7
Yup, torqued to spec. I cringe at doing it every time though. Just waiting for the axle nut to sheer off when I start getting it tightened down. I saw the Amazon adjusters you posted and passed because the spools look ugly and I wouldn't trust them anyway.
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peripateticmike
Full Member
Posts: 140
Likes: 39
Registered: Feb 25, 2018 10:09:30 GMT -7
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Post by peripateticmike on Oct 22, 2018 11:56:58 GMT -7
got a Trackside front chock (Revzilla) for my bike, but need to assemble it. Cost me $40 with a discount and ZillaCash, so not bad . Send it back. The tire sticks to the cheap finish/paint. If you don't bolt it to the floor and try to roll the bike off of it, the whole thing will rotate up and smash your front fender. Go with a quality Baxley wheel chock
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peripateticmike
Full Member
Posts: 140
Likes: 39
Registered: Feb 25, 2018 10:09:30 GMT -7
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Post by peripateticmike on Oct 22, 2018 12:02:56 GMT -7
Yup, torqued to spec. I cringe at doing it every time though. Just waiting for the axle nut to sheer off when I start getting it tightened down. Yeah PSA. Make sure you clean the threads on the axle and the nut when you remove them every once in awhile (or even replace the nut occasionally). I recently had mine completely seize up. I had to cut the nut off, replace the axle, nut, washer, and the adjuster plate on the left side because it started to sheer when I went to loosen it to adjust the chain. Torqued to spec with a recently calibrated snap-on TW.
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revolvingrain
Junior Member
Posts: 62
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Registered: Nov 15, 2017 12:14:29 GMT -7
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Post by revolvingrain on Oct 23, 2018 13:15:52 GMT -7
Just ordered the crazy iron stunt cage to use as a crash bar; maybe Overkill and might take away a bit from my lean angle but it's so worth it for the looks.
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peripateticmike
Full Member
Posts: 140
Likes: 39
Registered: Feb 25, 2018 10:09:30 GMT -7
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Post by peripateticmike on Oct 29, 2018 16:31:03 GMT -7
Installed a new set of Battlax S21's and while they were in there, I had them throw in this set of 90 degree valve stems. I wish bike manufacturers would put these on from the factory. Makes it so much easier to check/set tire pressures. I have them on all my bikes now.
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Deleted
Posts: 0
Registered: Nov 25, 2024 21:32:39 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Oct 29, 2018 22:16:27 GMT -7
Good tip when replacing tires. Any links where you bought them? Thx
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peripateticmike
Full Member
Posts: 140
Likes: 39
Registered: Feb 25, 2018 10:09:30 GMT -7
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Post by peripateticmike on Oct 30, 2018 9:44:49 GMT -7
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Post by papawheelie on Oct 30, 2018 10:39:52 GMT -7
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