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Post by Cruizin on Oct 11, 2016 23:01:08 GMT -7
There are many opinions and methods. I use a version of the motoman break in method. You can read about it here www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htmThe theory is that factories recommend soft break in procedures for reasons of rider safety . They wisely pretend that everyone who buys their bikes are brand new idiot riders, for legal reasons. This is also one of the reasons why USA bikes often have less power than European models, as well as for emission laws. If you have a brand new unridden bike, 3-6 miles on the bike, then this is MY opinion on how to break it in properly. I say my opinion because if you try this and then pull out in front of a semi and get yourself killed, your family cannot sue me. Take this for what it's worth. This is ideally done away from traffic on a track or on a country road. Start the bike, do not rev it!! let it warm up no more than 30 seconds. Take off and rev it to at least 3000 rpm or more in ea gear quickly. AVOID RUNNING AT THE SAME RPM! Run the hell out of it for the first 20 miles. Revving up to 5-6000 rpm and then let off the gas and let it decel down, up to 6000 rpm, let it decel down. Do this for the first twenty miles. At or around 20 miles on the odometer. Drain the oil, change the filter. Refill with non synthetic. the first 600 miles, be very careful not to run at the same constant RPM level . Let it rev up a few hundred rpms, back down a few hundred rpm's. Not enough to piss off the car behind you, just little throttle adjustments. The idea is to let the rings seat and work into the cylinders properly, to avid oil blowby later on after break in. Change oil and filter again at 600 miles. Ride normally the next 600miles, change oil and filter again at 1200 miles. Then, switch to factory recommended intervals. Using this method, I have had numerous bikes last well over 100,000 miles. One of my old bikes was sold to a guy five years ago and he is still running original engine at 158,000 miles on it. Again, this is just what i do, it's just my opinion and differs from "other" break in methods. It's also slightly different from the motorman method listed above. The worst things you can do to an engine. 1.Baby the engine during break in, especially the first 20 miles. Get on a track or country road and ride it like you stole it. 2.Letting it idle too much in the first 20 miles. Let it warm up for like a minute max. Dont ever rev it while it is in neutral. LEt it warm up for like a minute, maybe two and take off. 3. Riding at the same rpm during the first 600 miles. A new engine needs the wide range of rpm's, dont pin it and leave it there either. Rev up, rev down. Avoid the highway first 600 miles. 4.Revving it while it is just sitting there. Stupid and it's horrible for your bike. Revi it while it is moving only! Read the motoman link above at the beginning of this thread. Why dont factories recommend this in the manual? Again, they want you to ride new bikes very carefully for legal reasons. They are afraid that some idiot will try this and get run over by the car behind them on a busy street by revving down. Also, (again this is just my opinion) but what would happen to their sales if all their bikes suddenly started lasting over 150,000 miles? Right... |
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Post by Cruizin on Oct 11, 2016 23:02:41 GMT -7
Also, remember that frequency of oil change is far more important than type of oil. Change it at 20 miles, after ripping it in good. Then at 600 miles. Then 1200 miles.
Then you can switch to synthetic and start following factory service intervals.
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warnock
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Post by warnock on Oct 12, 2016 5:30:35 GMT -7
It would have been nice to know this when I bought the bike lol. I have been following the break in period from the book
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guywithfz10
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Post by guywithfz10 on Oct 12, 2016 10:32:50 GMT -7
Yeah when I bought my bike, the dealer told me to vary the RPM and ride through the rev range instead of just sitting at a constant RPM like on the highway. I did city only riding for 1600kms because of what he said lol.
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megatron
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Post by megatron on Oct 13, 2016 20:17:39 GMT -7
The owner of a shop here that has been in business for years told me he toured the Yamaha factory years ago and he was shocked to see that after they manufactured the bike they run them on a dunno to make sure everything works and they run them up to full rpm and back Down. He advised me on the 10 to just ride it how you normally would. Having said that I babied my first bike (fz8) in 2011 because I followed the book. My fz09 and my grom I rode them hard during break in and they were fine. Honestly I agree it's there legal way to keep you calm on a new set of wheels. However the oil must be changed after the break in due to the fact it's pretty thick stuff for the. Break in. Just my honest findings and opinion
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Post by arcaos84 on Oct 26, 2016 10:41:56 GMT -7
I missed the 20mi change window due to the distance I travel to and from work, as well as daylight and the proper allen wrench size for the oil bolt. I plan to catch up by doing the change tonight at about ~100mi in. Going to use Yamalube and utilize the program they offer. I'm riding it like I would normally, not babying it, but also getting on it every now and again. I'm also fluctuating the RPMs every chance I get. Think I'll be ok?
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Post by Cruizin on Oct 26, 2016 10:45:04 GMT -7
I missed the 20mi change window due to the distance I travel to and from work, as well as daylight and the proper allen wrench size for the oil bolt. I plan to catch up by doing the change tonight at about ~100mi in. Going to use Yamalube and utilize the program they offer. I'm riding it like I would normally, not babying it, but also getting on it every now and again. I'm also fluctuating the RPMs every chance I get. Think I'll be ok? Sounds great man, it's a crapshoot and this is just what works well for me. You'll be fine. |
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dynaguy
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Post by dynaguy on Dec 9, 2016 5:59:27 GMT -7
"Back in the day", breaking in was essentially allowing the motor to finish fitting the parts by wearing off ill fitting edges. That is why that early oil change was so important, oil would be full of metal bits sheared off during the "break in" process. With modern manufacturing techniques and advances in metallurgy, tolerances are far more exact from the moment of assembly. These days, breaking in an engine is more about seating in piston rings and valve surfaces. You can bet that within 50 miles or so, your rings are set. From that point on, it's the valve seating surfaces being taken care of. It is important to vary engine speed so this can be accomplished. No need to worry about using full synthetic. Every Corvette made ships with full synthetic from new with no, and I mean no problems. So switch to it at first oil change. Point of this rambling is that the break in of the past is just that, past, over and caput. Just vary your engine speeds, build your trip to redline over the first few hundred miles and it's all good from there. And by the way, "babying" and engine during that first few hundred miles can result in glazing of the cylinder walls, so as noted above, it is clearly important to load the engine.
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Post by arcaos84 on Dec 12, 2016 8:46:50 GMT -7
"Back in the day", breaking in was essentially allowing the motor to finish fitting the parts by wearing off ill fitting edges. That is why that early oil change was so important, oil would be full of metal bits sheared off during the "break in" process. With modern manufacturing techniques and advances in metallurgy, tolerances are far more exact from the moment of assembly. These days, breaking in an engine is more about seating in piston rings and valve surfaces. You can bet that within 50 miles or so, your rings are set. From that point on, it's the valve seating surfaces being taken care of. It is important to vary engine speed so this can be accomplished. No need to worry about using full synthetic. Every Corvette made ships with full synthetic from new with no, and I mean no problems. So switch to it at first oil change. Point of this rambling is that the break in of the past is just that, past, over and caput. Just vary your engine speeds, build your trip to redline over the first few hundred miles and it's all good from there. And by the way, "babying" and engine during that first few hundred miles can result in glazing of the cylinder walls, so as noted above, it is clearly important to load the engine. I think that's why the Dyno them at the factory before shipping to dealers. |
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mateo
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Post by mateo on Jan 8, 2017 9:04:26 GMT -7
Good thread. Thank you.
I agree with everything except the part about running the FZ10 on mineral oil for 1,200 miles. The Japanese engineers with white lab coats want us to use fully synthetic oil only and recommend a group IV/V blended oil (Yamalube full synthetic) with ester base. They probably know something about the seals from testing or want the magnetic properties of ester in recognition of close tolerances. This is just a theory or speculation, but use of mineral for 1,200 miles and then the recommended ester based group IV/V thereafter may run the risk of leaks upon reintroduction of the full synth. If you want to run mineral oil for break-in purposes, then you could find a fully synthetic group IV/V blended oil with either a slightly higher level of molybdenum or ZDP (zinc). Race specific oils would be ideal for that -- e.g., Motul 300V (moly) or Maxima Extra (ZDP). Just my two cents.
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thomascrown
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Post by thomascrown on Apr 1, 2017 6:51:39 GMT -7
I prefer running mineral oil for the first couple of oil changes during break in. I don't think break in suddenly happens at the arbitrary 600 or 1000 mile marks either. Engine is tight for a couple of thousand miles. You can tell on the CP4 with how high effort the downshifts are when new.
I ran mineral on my FZ-07 for 6k miles, then switched to full Synth. 40k miles later, it runs like a raped ape, and doesn't burn a drop of oil. I did constantly vary the loads on the engine, shifting gears and throttle all the time etc. However, I didn't break it in hard, while I loaded the engine, I never banged it off the rev limiter the first 1000 miles.
Either way, Yamalube will warranty your engine for 100,000 miles/20 years/5000 hours regardless of whether you use their synth, semi-synth, or mineral oil. For most of you guys, this is moot as you won't be riding that far.
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kup0236
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Post by kup0236 on Apr 1, 2017 8:25:38 GMT -7
This is my 5th Yamaha. It's my second new one. I broke in my 04 R6 and never used synthetic oil in it. I used whatever motorcycle oil autozone had on sale. I changed the oil every 5k. When I sold that bike it had 90k hard miles on it and never burned or leaked a drop. Ran like it was new. This bike I'm using Yamalube in just for the warranty. Yamaha is the most reliable motorcycle on the market. Just change the oil and don't sweat it. They are bulletproof. Your not going to have problems unless you cause them by abusing the redline or not doing the regular maintenance. Have fun out there and ride safe.
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audiblepop94
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Post by audiblepop94 on Apr 22, 2017 20:01:44 GMT -7
Also, remember that frequency of oil change is far more important than type of oil. Change it at 20 miles, after ripping it in good. Then at 600 miles. Then 1200 miles. Then you can switch to synthetic and start following factory service intervals. In reference to using mineral vs synthetic, I just did my first change at about 100 miles of hard run in, and the stealership only had synthetic in the weight I needed so I went ahead and used that anyway. Do you think there will be any real difference in the final ring seating later on down the road using synthetic from this point on? This entire first 100 miles was done in a proper hard break-in fashion, as well as continual accel/decel... Also, every article I read seems to have a different opinion on how many miles you should keep varying the rpms, do you have any input on this? I'd hate to think I'll have to keep running up and down the rpm's pissing off cars for hundreds of miles more, but I will if it needs doing... I am also unclear as to whether the variation of rpm's is referring to accelerating and decelerating continually or just changing rpm's every now and then..? I have been doing the former |
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Post by Cruizin on Apr 22, 2017 20:05:45 GMT -7
Also, remember that frequency of oil change is far more important than type of oil. Change it at 20 miles, after ripping it in good. Then at 600 miles. Then 1200 miles. Then you can switch to synthetic and start following factory service intervals. In reference to using mineral vs synthetic, I just did my first change at about 100 miles of hard run in, and the stealership only had synthetic in the weight I needed so I went ahead and used that anyway. Do you think there will be any real difference in the final ring seating later on down the road using synthetic from this point on? This entire first 100 miles was done in a proper hard break-in fashion, as well as continual accel/decel... Also, every article I read seems to have a different opinion on how many miles you should keep varying the rpms, do you have any input on this? I'd hate to think I'll have to keep running up and down the rpm's pissing off cars for hundreds of miles more, but I will if it needs doing... I am also unclear as to whether the variation of rpm's is referring to accelerating and decelerating continually or just changing rpm's every now and then..? I have been doing the former The most important is the first 20 Miles, then oil filter change. Then go on country roads and just avoid maintaining the same constant rpms. Yeah, avoid trying varying rpms in traffic of course! Don't get yourself killed. |
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audiblepop94
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Post by audiblepop94 on Apr 22, 2017 20:14:54 GMT -7
In reference to using mineral vs synthetic, I just did my first change at about 100 miles of hard run in, and the stealership only had synthetic in the weight I needed so I went ahead and used that anyway. Do you think there will be any real difference in the final ring seating later on down the road using synthetic from this point on? This entire first 100 miles was done in a proper hard break-in fashion, as well as continual accel/decel... Also, every article I read seems to have a different opinion on how many miles you should keep varying the rpms, do you have any input on this? I'd hate to think I'll have to keep running up and down the rpm's pissing off cars for hundreds of miles more, but I will if it needs doing... I am also unclear as to whether the variation of rpm's is referring to accelerating and decelerating continually or just changing rpm's every now and then..? I have been doing the former The most important is the first 20 Miles, then oil filter change. Then go on country roads and just avoid maintaining the same constant rpms. Yeah, avoid trying varying rpms in traffic of course! Don't get yourself killed. Good to go, this helps put my mind at ease. It's the first new engine on two wheels for me so I want to get it right... |
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nbe23
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Post by nbe23 on Jun 17, 2017 2:20:23 GMT -7
20 miles and change the oil? That's crazy and wasteful. I ran the dog piss out of my FZ-10 for 900 miles and then I changed the oil. I'll let you know how it holds up.
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Post by Cruizin on Jun 18, 2017 16:09:43 GMT -7
20 miles and change the oil? That's crazy and wasteful. I ran the dog piss out of my FZ-10 for 900 miles and then I changed the oil. I'll let you know how it holds up. Ok, thanks! Ill call all the experienced race teams who do this and let them know ! |
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fzwaffle
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Post by fzwaffle on Jun 18, 2017 18:28:09 GMT -7
I changed my oil at roughly 40 miles, then again at 500 miles. Currently at 1200 miles now, probably will change it again soon.
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doctorzoidberg
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Post by doctorzoidberg on Jul 16, 2017 8:41:29 GMT -7
There are many opinions and methods. I use a version of the motoman break in method. You can read about it here www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm...Start the bike, do not rev it!! let it warm up no more than 30 seconds... ...The worst things you can do to an engine...2.Warming it up sitting at idle until it reaches temp. Horrible for your bike, and horrible for your rings and cylinders for the first 600 miles. Start it, put on gloves, ride out! Hi there, I just joined this forum, and on this coming Thursday I will be picking up my brand-new FZ-10 from my local dealership. My wife has an FZ-07, which I also enjoy riding, that she bought new, and I broke in her engine as per the Motoman method you recommend, and it runs excellent so far. I agree that babying the engine during break-in is exactly the wrong thing to do if you want the best performance and life out of the engine. You recommend not letting the engine warm up before taking off, and Motoman stresses the opposite, that you really, really need to let the engine warm up before riding it hard during break-in. So, I'm wondering, can you elaborate on why you think letting the engine warm up is a bad idea? Thanks. |
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Post by Cruizin on Jul 16, 2017 9:43:52 GMT -7
There are many opinions and methods. I use a version of the motoman break in method. You can read about it here www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm...Start the bike, do not rev it!! let it warm up no more than 30 seconds... ...The worst things you can do to an engine...2.Warming it up sitting at idle until it reaches temp. Horrible for your bike, and horrible for your rings and cylinders for the first 600 miles. Start it, put on gloves, ride out! Hi there, I just joined this forum, and on this coming Thursday I will be picking up my brand-new FZ-10 from my local dealership. My wife has an FZ-07, which I also enjoy riding, that she bought new, and I broke in her engine as per the Motoman method you recommend, and it runs excellent so far. I agree that babying the engine during break-in is exactly the wrong thing to do if you want the best performance and life out of the engine. You recommend not letting the engine warm up before taking off, and Motoman stresses the opposite, that you really, really need to let the engine warm up before riding it hard during break-in. So, I'm wondering, can you elaborate on why you think letting the engine warm up is a bad idea? Thanks. Its honestly just my opinion for the first 20 mile break in. I will go back and reword that. but my opinion is that in the first 20 miles, letting it idle for more than a minute before taking off is bad for the rings, that have not fully seated yet. Now, factories are now dyno running these engines before shipping them out to the dealers. This is what I have heard, so they have started the process for us. But I believe that the first 20 mile sring seating procedure is still important. |
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