Deleted
Posts: 0
Registered: Apr 24, 2024 23:58:09 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Sept 10, 2019 22:13:16 GMT -7
Didn't do it just for you, so no need to thank me . Oh, and the lower winter number you can find, the better for the engine, and they're always approved. I looked for a 0/40, but only 5/40 is available with Yamaha specs (JASO2, etc) and full synthetic, so using Castrol Power1 4T 5/40 now. My engine feels super smooth, and starts right up when cold, even without disengaging the clutch. On all my vehicles I use 0/xx Mobil1 oil now. No cold engine start noises with it.
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Post by hooli on Sept 11, 2019 6:34:54 GMT -7
America First. Wow, this is now a political thread. Wtf.
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Post by heathhudnall on Sept 11, 2019 7:49:37 GMT -7
America First. Wow, this is now a political thread. Wtf. I deleted my original post. It was in response to another post somebody had made...that was political. Must have been deleted as well.
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Post by RedAndBlack on Sept 11, 2019 10:48:25 GMT -7
<--- Mods when someone bumps a year old thread and all hell breaks loose. But for realzzzz, let's keep it civil everybody and get this thread back onto track!
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vstate60
Full Member
Posts: 218
Likes: 63
Registered: Jul 20, 2019 14:37:58 GMT -7
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Post by vstate60 on Sept 14, 2019 20:40:15 GMT -7
"Back in the day", breaking in was essentially allowing the motor to finish fitting the parts by wearing off ill fitting edges. That is why that early oil change was so important, oil would be full of metal bits sheared off during the "break in" process. With modern manufacturing techniques and advances in metallurgy, tolerances are far more exact from the moment of assembly. These days, breaking in an engine is more about seating in piston rings and valve surfaces. You can bet that within 50 miles or so, your rings are set. From that point on, it's the valve seating surfaces being taken care of. It is important to vary engine speed so this can be accomplished. No need to worry about using full synthetic. Every Corvette made ships with full synthetic from new with no, and I mean no problems. So switch to it at first oil change. Point of this rambling is that the break in of the past is just that, past, over and caput. Just vary your engine speeds, build your trip to redline over the first few hundred miles and it's all good from there. And by the way, "babying" and engine during that first few hundred miles can result in glazing of the cylinder walls, so as noted above, it is clearly important to load the engine. Hate to be a negative Nancy but how do you explain the tons of metal in my first oil change @594 miles after varying RPMs and running it hard as hell? Wasn’t just barely noticeable—I’m talking a muddy mist of metal flakes. Now it’s clean and beautiful but yes...your engine needs to be broken in hard and oil and filter changes early!
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dashiznit1
Junior Member
Posts: 76
Likes: 28
Registered: Oct 1, 2019 10:29:19 GMT -7
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Post by dashiznit1 on Oct 1, 2019 11:21:21 GMT -7
Yesterday I finished the first part of my hard break in. I gave it 3/4 to full throttle acceleration and engine braking under 6500 RPM for 20 miles, a short 20 minute cool down, and then the same thing up to 7000 RPM for another 16 miles. I'm changing the oil and filter today and I'm going to ride with varied RPMS until 600 miles, change the oil and filter again, and then I'm keeping it under 8k RPM until 1200 miles where I'll do the 2nd scheduled oil and filter change. With all the reading I've done on engine break ins this seemed like the best method.
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dashiznit1
Junior Member
Posts: 76
Likes: 28
Registered: Oct 1, 2019 10:29:19 GMT -7
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Post by dashiznit1 on Oct 3, 2019 12:34:01 GMT -7
As a follow up, I changed the oil at 36 miles and there was a small but noticeable amount of metal and crap in the oil and filter. I don't know how harmful that would've been for another 570 miles but an early oil change is relatively cheap insurance.
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Post by RedAndBlack on Oct 3, 2019 13:35:26 GMT -7
As a follow up, I changed the oil at 36 miles and there was a small but noticeable amount of metal and crap in the oil and filter. I don't know how harmful that would've been for another 570 miles but an early oil change is relatively cheap insurance.
That's why most manufacturers have recommended the 600 mile oil change. Cause that's what's been determined that most of that flaking and other crap that comes off the engine will have done so by then.
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