How to break in your brand new FZ-10

Of course I get that; nobody sane rides at those temperatures. What you don't get is thinner oil it thinner all the time. It doesn't become thinner magically at those temperatures. It can flow lower because it's thinner when cold (and cold could be 90ºF).

And Evitzee, no, oil grade/thickness has nothing to do with the ability of it to cling to metal surfaces. That's something fully synthetic oils of any grade can do. And the quicker you have lubrication when cold, the less of a chance of metal to metal contact. And THAT is exactly what a thinner oil can do . Finally, recommendations are made with many things in mind, and also with available grades from their own brand. For instance, Yahama recommends leaving oil in there for as many as 8K miles. Do you do that? Didn't think so. If you write a manual recommending an oil grade that will last 8K miles, then you have to go a different direction than what it's ideal for the motor. Viscosity will break down for sure after so many miles and a tranny churning the oil in there. So you have to recommend thicker oil. But if you won't leave it that long, everything changes. And since Yamaha doesn't make 5/40 for motorcycles, never expected to see that recommendation anywhere. Plus nobody made 5/40 motorcycle oil until very recently, so also don't expect it to be mentioned on ANY manual.

And  now it's time to listen to Exuptoy. I never expected to change the mind of the above members, but now that basically all the myths were discussed, hopefully will encourage other younger owners more open-minded to do their own research, and reach their own conclusions based on what makes sense for them and of what they read. Manufacturers not always make the correct recommendations simply because we don't follow all the criteria for those recommendations. And that goes for the subject (break-in) as well. If somebody doesn't want his bike to last a long time, they can break it in any way they see fit. Manufacturers aim for maximum life, rather than maximum power. I'm signing off this thread.

Let's nitpick what the best tire is for the FZ? 

Yeah. Interestingly, that’s all my nearest dealer puts on the shelf, in fact — Yamalube full synthetic 10w40.

I like 15w50 for my machine, though, so I buy it online. What can I say...it’s what she likes.

You can also get Yamalube full synthetic 0w40...for your snowmobile.

I seen this as well, I was about to post it, then I seen you already had. I'll still break my engines in per manufacturer specs.

Just don't put 15w50 in there. Or you'll blow up and die in a huge ball of fire flying down the road.

I mostly do it by the book too, at least the first 600 miles. It's good to see a video with some technical proof, but you just can't extrapolate from 600 miles the rest of the life of an engine. In addition, like he said at the end, there're many other components that also require break-in, namely the tranny, that they didn't check. At any rate, not surprised at those findings; most wear occurs at start-up, due to lack of lubrication, not because improper break-in. And that wear starts showing later in the life of the engine. The most important engine break-in aspect IMO is to seat rings properly, to minimize oil consumption, not to avoid wear (as proved in that video, not much difference). And that takes place much sooner than 600 miles. But the tranny gears take longer, but not 1,000 miles. And yes, oil always makes a difference, and it's important to use the correct one for riding conditions, but some ignorant people here think they're the same, when it should be obvious to any smart person there must be a difference, but rather than find out what it is, just make stupid comments like a certain world leader. Ha ha. Guess ignorance is bliss, after all. Signing off this thread.

Shut up you annoying twat.

They actually go hand in hand, brother; that's why many manufacturers put special 'break-in' oil when new . I also follow break-in recommendations closely, especially to 600 miles. The most important interval is the first 100 miles, where you want lots of engine braking, with moderate acceleration to the rpm limit, then coasting. After 600, I'm more aggressive than the manual suggests, but not by much. Helps you get used to the bike, but also allow proper break-in of other components, like the tranny and brakes.

Any recommended oil viscosity should be fine. The main reason I wouldn't run thick oil (50) on this bike unless tracking it, is it only gets to 167 freaking degrees, even at 90ºF ambient temperature. Too damn low IMO, especially when cold. Never seen that on a modern vehicle. The ideal oil temperature is 212ºF, when it thins out to what it should be. When it's cooler, it gets more viscous, so the engine has to run harder due to more friction, lubricates less, it generates more heat, and less HP too. Not detrimental to the engine, but not beneficial either. Most vehicles have at least a 185ºF thermostat. Modern engines need to run at least at that temperature to be more efficient. And also common sense is to never rev the bike past 4K rpm before oil is at full operating temperature, which might take 5 miles or so, depending on ambient temperature. I run 5/40, which gives my engine the best of both worlds, and minimizes engine wear when oil is cold or hot, so that's good for me too. He he. Oil is the lifeblood of engines, so it's important to pay attention to it. Cheers.