Stock can mod?

I understand your position. I had the same hopes as you before I bought my exhaust and flashed my ECU. I had no issues with stock power so flashing the ECU was merely to make the bike run well after installing my new exhaust. Basically I just wanted the bike to not sound like a sewing machine.... 

I digress - Sadly I don't think you're going to get a lot more sound without getting rid of the cat. What you can do, if you want to test this (It's what I did) is simply unbolt the stock exhaust and see how that sounds. To my ear it barely did anything, but maybe you'll think differently. Either way it's worth a try considering it costs nothing but about 5 minutes of your time. good luck!

- Drew 

fz10.org/thread/1370/stock-cats-remove?page=1&scrollTo=10130

aavmann Have you checked in to the A&R baffle kit. You have to cut out the stock baffle. The A&R baffle is a larger diameter size baffle. I have just installed the baffle on my bike but I also have removed the cat and installed a midpipe. The A&R baffle kit with a midpipe is crazy loud. From watching videos on youtube if you do the baffle kit and wire open the exup valve it gives you more volume for sure, might be what you are looking for. As far as removing the muffler and installing just a tip there is a company that does make that. If you read through the exhaust option threads you should be able to find the post about it pretty easy. Basically the tip would sound just like running the bike without a muffler, it just looks better.

Hey.
Took the advice and took off the stock can completely. Yes. It does sound much better. So going hunting for tips before I butcher the stock can. Ironically. Amazon has an "akrapovic" carbon fibre tip for automobiles! Weird. You can chose all kinds of inlet sizes. The pipe on the MT measures 54.5mm and they offer one that is 54mm. That's a little interference but should slip on with some persuasion and maybe a little light sanding. At least this way it will stay on nice and tight after clamping. I see the little EXUP flapper. I've read that some are wiring it open permanently. Do the majority of members feel that this is an OK practice? Why not just zip wheel it out then instead? Zero drag from the center post. I don't know much about the risk of doing so. I have the ability to do a nice job but don't really know the repercussions engine or performance wise 😳
Gonna sleep on it before I buy it and hope that others will chime in on this thread topic.
Thanks!

Aavmann, I can tell you my Graves slip-on is significantly louder than stock, so you don't really have to decat to get better sound. At least with my choice, and I'd assume the accessory Yoshi slip-on as well. Sound is significantly better too, and borderline loud to me, so just about perfect. And no fuel smell in my clothes, which that alone makes decatting a non-starter for me now. The Akra slip-on doesn't sound nice or louder at all IMO, so don't consider that. Another member decatted and now says it's too loud, so do your research well to avoid making a mistake.

Hey Hooli, the exhaust valve is normally open via a heavy spring, so no need to wire it at all. In fact, I'd check that you didn't wire the valve wrong, keeping it closed, to avoid engine damage if you ride it at high rpm. If I remember correctly, it needs to be rotated clockwise to its stop to be open, which is the normal position when you turn ignition on. That's how I tested my servo motor when I got a CEL due to a too tight cable when first passing 7K rpm. I rotated it counterclockwise by hand, turned ignition on, and servo immediately whizzed it open, so I knew it wasn't the servo, the cables, or the valve stuck. With the cables detached, it should return to its default open position by itself. If I were you, I'd just remove it to make 100% sure it's in the open position. Hope this helps.

Interesting. The service manual says it's normally open, like it should. Maybe yours was a bit sticky, and the spring didn't open it. Mine was very hard to turn hooked up, even with the spring, so maybe the spring is useless, after all. At any rate, with the testing you did, it's clear you have it now open. But out of curiosity, do you remember if you turned it clockwise or counterclockwise to its stop? Just to know on which position it's open; it's not clear from the picture you posted. Thx.

aavmann When I took my bike in for it's 600 mile service I talked to the service manager a little about removing the cat and asked him about warranty issues. He basically told me depending on what was wrong with the bike and if it was not being used inappropeatley (racing and stuff) it would not void the warranty. He also told me that the chance of anything ever happening to the bikes engine do the exhaust mod is very unlikely. I'm sure every dealer have a slightly different view of this subject but in this day and age they are trying to keep business rather than lose it. I would be more worried about voiding my warranty from reflashing the bikes control module.

As for the butterfly valve I drilled out the two screws on the valve and just took it out. The shaft does not come out with out major work.

I removed the cables completely but left the servo motor in for now. Eventually I will remove the servo and either just plug in a servo buddy or do a reflash but that wont't be for for some time. I'm not worried about removing a pound or two from the bike, I weigh almost 300lb and the damn thing stills lifts the front wheel in 3rd gear with ease. I to thought about removing the shaft but after seeing what it take to remove it I decided against it.