mikemt
New Member
Posts: 29
Likes: 12
Registered: Mar 31, 2019 4:33:48 GMT -7
|
Post by mikemt on Apr 27, 2019 10:49:01 GMT -7
Hey. Took the advice and took off the stock can completely. Yes. It does sound much better. So going hunting for tips before I butcher the stock can. Ironically. Amazon has an "akrapovic" carbon fibre tip for automobiles! Weird. You can chose all kinds of inlet sizes. The pipe on the MT measures 54.5mm and they offer one that is 54mm. That's a little interference but should slip on with some persuasion and maybe a little light sanding. At least this way it will stay on nice and tight after clamping. I see the little EXUP flapper. I've read that some are wiring it open permanently. Do the majority of members feel that this is an OK practice? Why not just zip wheel it out then instead? Zero drag from the center post. I don't know much about the risk of doing so. I have the ability to do a nice job but don't really know the repercussions engine or performance wise 😳 Gonna sleep on it before I buy it and hope that others will chime in on this thread topic. Thanks!  |
|
Sponsored Ad
|
bigkurka
Junior Member
Posts: 69
Likes: 15
Registered: Sept 16, 2018 11:02:29 GMT -7
|
Post by bigkurka on Apr 27, 2019 22:18:58 GMT -7
aavmann Yes I have thought about suspension setup but unfortunately do to not enough $$ to buy springs I've basically have not done anything with the suspension. Although I have been thinking about tightening up both the front and rear preload to try and keep the bike from sagging so much. Right now I'm working on some cosmetic stuff like flush mount turn signals and also going to be installing oem R1 rearsets soon. just got to buy the rear master cylinder. also want to get an R1 front master cylinder and clutch perch for better breaking and to eliminate the screw hole from the stock mirrors. I'm going to check out your other post before messing the suspension though. Thanks for the heads up
|
|
aavmann
Junior Member
Posts: 93
Likes: 36
Registered: Mar 14, 2019 21:05:34 GMT -7
|
Post by aavmann on Apr 28, 2019 12:05:32 GMT -7
    Hey guys. Did the flapper removal. Pretty easy. Vacuumed chips as was drilling and they came out.. popped off easily. Started it up and wow... night and day. Cables all removed as well. Lifted the stock can over the pipe as it was running and it muffled the sound like crazy. I'm waiting for my Chinese knockoff akrapovic tip. I think it will be a drastic change in tone and sound that I was looking for before I finally in.... I'll post a sound clip when i have it all assembled. Thanks for everyone's comments and suggestions. Does someone have a link of the termination plug? I would like to get the servo out too. Cheers |
|
aavmann
Junior Member
Posts: 93
Likes: 36
Registered: Mar 14, 2019 21:05:34 GMT -7
|
Post by aavmann on Apr 28, 2019 16:48:47 GMT -7
Yeah. I'm weird. My apologies in advance but a few beers in the garage resulted in a little liquid courage. The flapper is gone as per my previous post.... the shaft is too now. (Knew I couldn't let this go). This is not a performance mod... but just a self satisfaction mod... secured the shaft from spinning with a pair of vide grips and a tie wrap. Took a saws all with a long metal blade and carefully and patiently cut it in the middle.... then another cut below to create a space in between. This allowed the top to drop down and out and the bottom to lift off the guiding boss. Careful!! Used needle nose pliers and a vacuum hooked up to a 3/8 air line to make sure this bastards didn't end up falling into the cat box. This was probably the most stressful part of the job. How to fill the hole up top? Easy Bolt and nut with a ratchet and good to go. All of the spring assembly is gone. Like i said... does it matter?... no.... do I personally feel cool about it all?! Hell yeah! Time to celebrate with another beer! 😂 fun is making it your own.... when the weather is too cold to ride.... as always.... cheers!         |
|
bigkurka
Junior Member
Posts: 69
Likes: 15
Registered: Sept 16, 2018 11:02:29 GMT -7
|
Post by bigkurka on Apr 28, 2019 22:16:51 GMT -7
That looks pretty creative there. Question though how much of the bolt and nut stick down inside the pipe. Almost counter productive if its sticking inside the pipe to much. Maybe you should have tried to tap the hole and put a pipe plug in it. Let us know how sounds.
|
|
aavmann
Junior Member
Posts: 93
Likes: 36
Registered: Mar 14, 2019 21:05:34 GMT -7
|
Post by aavmann on Apr 29, 2019 4:25:33 GMT -7
That looks pretty creative there. Question though how much of the bolt and nut stick down inside the pipe. Almost counter productive if its sticking inside the pipe to much. Maybe you should have tried to tap the hole and put a pipe plug in it. Let us know how sounds. Hello Thanks .... it doesn't stick down into the pipe more than 1/4" inch as the pipe has a void up there as well. I just grabbed whatever I had around to see if it would work and it does. I have an opportunity to cut the bolt that is sticking outside of the nut which would make it flush to sub flush of the I.D. (Which I will do later today. I'll post a pic of that when done) The tip I ordered will be a while yet for a full sound sample but judging so far....initial mission of a low cost sound upgrade is slowly becoming reality. Cheers |
|
Deleted
Posts: 0
Registered: Nov 21, 2024 3:25:46 GMT -7
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 30, 2019 11:46:55 GMT -7
Hey Aavmann, out of curiosity, did you try to unscrew the butterfly first? I assume you did, stripped the threads, and had to drill the screws out, but just curious, since you didn't mention anything. Screws were probably red-loctited from the factory. Now to the more disturbing issue IMO  . I also questioned removing the post, since now you have no idea how you affected exhaust flow, and now the stock map might be too lean, which eventually could ruin the engine. Nobody has a map for that mod, so to play it safe, you'll have to test your bike to make sure your engine is safe (and add a PC5 if needed), since stock maps are borderline lean already. I'd have left the valve alone, since it gives the engine more torque in the low to mid range. Or just permanently open, if you really thought it was restrictive (it's really not). But the damage is done, so just get a dyno with an EGA (exhaust gas analyzer), and report back with results. Maybe you found the source of 50 more HP. Ha ha. Take care. |
|
aavmann
Junior Member
Posts: 93
Likes: 36
Registered: Mar 14, 2019 21:05:34 GMT -7
|
Post by aavmann on Apr 30, 2019 20:06:54 GMT -7
Hey Aavmann, out of curiosity, did you try to unscrew the butterfly first? I assume you did, stripped the threads, and had to drill the screws out, but just curious, since you didn't mention anything. Screws were probably red-loctited from the factory. Now to the more disturbing issue IMO . I also questioned removing the post, since now you have no idea how you affected exhaust flow, and now the stock map might be too lean, which eventually could ruin the engine. Nobody has a map for that mod, so to play it safe, you'll have to test your bike to make sure your engine is safe (and add a PC5 if needed), since stock maps are borderline lean already. I'd have left the valve alone, since it gives the engine more torque in the low to mid range. Or just permanently open, if you really thought it was restrictive (it's really not). But the damage is done, so just get a dyno with an EGA (exhaust gas analyzer), and report back with results. Maybe you found the source of 50 more HP. Ha ha. Take care. Hello. Well I sure wasn't expecting that response! Yikes.... First off... the screws are spot welded in so drilling out the head is the ONLY option. The post is really not that big so I'm not sure how much it would really change it from leaving it be.... like I said, I just wanted it gone if people were wiring it open permanently anyway. I guess the comment of effecting the "lean" was never brought up previously or maybe others would not have touched it in the first place. It's very easy to weld the flapper to a thread that can pop back up the hole to put a nut on it and "bolt" it open. Or just use a long screw to mimic the post still being there, But do you really think that wiring open or removing completely is THAT different to the point of causing harm to the engine? I would think that messing with the cat box would be worse but I really have no experience with this. I know of one MT10 that has a 3/4 system WITHOUT a flash..... is this then a death wish for the engine!? |
|
aavmann
Junior Member
Posts: 93
Likes: 36
Registered: Mar 14, 2019 21:05:34 GMT -7
|
Post by aavmann on May 1, 2019 4:27:28 GMT -7
Hey
Back 12-14 years ago.... an individual posted a very unique mod on the FJR forum that I wonder would apply to the Mt10.
It was called the "barbarian jumper mod" and long story short, you would put a little jumper wire to two specific pins on the ecu and when holding select and reset at the same time while turning on the ignition, goes into a hidden screen. The screen displayed the cylinder number and allowed you to raise or lower a value that would intern make it run leaner or richer. Each one could be altered to suit whatever the bike was doing. The additional mod was to add rivnuts onto each header pipe and "sniff" with an analyzer the mixture.
Like most people.... I did this mod without the second step and through various discussions and sharing of settings and values, made slight changes right off the dash.
My 03 fjr has 84k and still runs fantastic.
It was for Yamaha technicians to diagnose and alter bikes based on whatever it was they were trying to change or correct.
I wonder if the MT10 has this same ability and we just don't know what pins to jumper?
Anyone hear of the above or know of other bikes that used to be able to do this ?
|
|
Deleted
Posts: 0
Registered: Nov 21, 2024 3:25:46 GMT -7
|
Post by Deleted on May 1, 2019 17:17:06 GMT -7
But do you really think that wiring open or removing completely is THAT different to the point of causing harm to the engine? I would think that messing with the cat box would be worse but I really have no experience with this. I know of one MT10 that has a 3/4 system WITHOUT a flash..... is this then a death wish for the engine!? Well, no way to know if you're running lean unless you check your exhaust with an EGA... but without the entire EXUP valve, it's possible, or even likely. Not too much, but beyond what's recommended. With a catless 3/4 system? You'd absolutely be running lean, which requires a tune to correct, even if it means effectively voiding your warranty. And yes, removing the cat is worse than what you did, but you don't want to run overly lean at all. Remember the ECU was programmed with the EXUP valve in place, which doesn't fully open until 7K rpm, so you could be running overly lean the majority of the time you ride. Again, only a dyno run with an EGA would tell the whole story. And finally, yes, running overly lean is definitely a death sentence in the long run, since combustion temperatures are hotter than normal, increasing piston size, which adds friction (and reduces performance), and that friction adds more heat, making pistons grow even more, scoring cylinder walls, etc... until engine eventually seizes. It could take a long time, but it's still bad for the engine. Heck, you could cross that 'overly lean' line by simply replacing the air filter with a racing one in some machines. That's why I never touch my engines anymore, car or bike, other than just a slip-on/catback exhaust, if at all, which is safe just by itself. Bottom line is this: If you want to be 100% safe, retain your warranty (if any left), and maximize fuel tank range (it's ridiculously short already), I'd put the bike back to stock (buy a cat on the cheap from a decatted bike), and just get a 'slip-on' of your choice. Or if you like your bike obnoxiously loud (apparently the case. Ha ha), just get a tune from a safe tuner (like 2WDW), and call it a day. You can ask the experts if a stock or 3/4 tune would be better for what you did (cat but no valve), but my guess is their 'stock' tune should be safe. Decatted tunes have to be richer, decreasing mileage further. Your other option would be to add a Power Commander (PC) and let a dyno place tune it (or the self-tuning one). Good luck brother, and keep us posted what you do . |
|
aavmann
Junior Member
Posts: 93
Likes: 36
Registered: Mar 14, 2019 21:05:34 GMT -7
|
Post by aavmann on May 1, 2019 17:53:30 GMT -7
But do you really think that wiring open or removing completely is THAT different to the point of causing harm to the engine? I would think that messing with the cat box would be worse but I really have no experience with this. I know of one MT10 that has a 3/4 system WITHOUT a flash..... is this then a death wish for the engine!? Well, no way to know if you're running lean unless you check your exhaust with an EGA... but without the entire EXUP valve, it's possible, or even likely. Not too much, but beyond what's recommended. With a catless 3/4 system? You'd absolutely be running lean, which requires a tune to correct, even if it means effectively voiding your warranty. And yes, removing the cat is worse than what you did, but you don't want to run overly lean at all. Remember the ECU was programmed with the EXUP valve in place, which doesn't fully open until 7K rpm, so you could be running overly lean the majority of the time you ride. Again, only a dyno run with an EGA would tell the whole story. And finally, yes, running overly lean is definitely a death sentence in the long run, since combustion temperatures are hotter than normal, increasing piston size, which adds friction (and reduces performance), and that friction adds more heat, making pistons grow even more, scoring cylinder walls, etc... until engine eventually seizes. It could take a long time, but it's still bad for the engine. Heck, you could cross that 'overly lean' line by simply replacing the air filter with a racing one in some machines. That's why I never touch my engines anymore, car or bike, other than just a slip-on/catback exhaust, if at all, which is safe just by itself. Bottom line is this: If you want to be 100% safe, retain your warranty (if any left), and maximize fuel tank range (it's ridiculously short already), I'd put the bike back to stock (buy a cat on the cheap from a decatted bike), and just get a 'slip-on' of your choice. Or if you like your bike obnoxiously loud (apparently the case. Ha ha), just get a tune from a safe tuner (like 2WDW), and call it a day. You can ask the experts if a stock or 3/4 tune would be better for what you did (cat but no valve), but my guess is their 'stock' tune should be safe. Decatted tunes have to be richer, decreasing mileage further. Your other option would be to add a Power Commander (PC) and let a dyno place tune it (or the self-tuning one). Good luck brother, and keep us posted what you do . Bloody hell! What have I done!??😜 This is what happens when you have two daughters...12 and 15.... and a wife that likes to "share" her opinion on everything ... all the time... lol. It's been crappy weather here in Ontario so far.... I spend evenings in the garage killing time after work and end up chopping shit up..lol It's bad enough the roads around me generally suck....and summer is taking it's sweet ass time to get here.... I'm now looking at machining a fancy bracket to get the mirrors lower and wider like my FJR. I'll post pics and drawings if I have success. The fact that one side is left handed puts a little wrench into it as everything I own and have worked with in my entire tool and die career is right handed!!! I'll find a way..... unless the weather gets better than I will be riding the hell outta my bikes to the point of letting my laundry pile up! Is that not what this is all about!? Thanks to everyone for comments and replies.... really glad I found this forum to kick ideas around and gain knowledge! Cheers to everyone! Peter  |
|
mikemt
New Member
Posts: 29
Likes: 12
Registered: Mar 31, 2019 4:33:48 GMT -7
|
Post by mikemt on May 2, 2019 12:14:43 GMT -7
Bloody hell! What have I done!??😜 This is what happens when you have two daughters...12 and 15.... and a wife that likes to "share" her opinion on everything ... all the time... lol. It's been crappy weather here in Ontario so far.... I spend evenings in the garage killing time after work and end up chopping shit up..lol same here two daughters and her in doors sending me nuts so I end up chopping things in the garage www.youtube.com/user/rattyxjr?feature=mhum#p/u/0/Kgrv1L5-HgQno going back now, btw if u r going this route, bite the bullet, akro or AR system and have it set up on a dyno, don't mess around with PC's etc, just my ho |
|
aavmann
Junior Member
Posts: 93
Likes: 36
Registered: Mar 14, 2019 21:05:34 GMT -7
|
Post by aavmann on Jun 4, 2019 9:32:54 GMT -7
OK... my little pipe mod trial is complete and I am VERY pleased with the sound. To recap- I removed the EXUP valve and all the internal components. In hind sight, I would have left this alone based on the next step and it's results. I just mounted a 'tip' with a few clamps and found a way to tap a hole on one of them and re-mount the stock black cover. It's not perfect but it definitely hides all the clamps. Now as far as the sound!! LOVE IT!. It is quite loud and really makes the bike sound awesome. Heads turn as I drive down the street as it sounds like nothing on the road. I will say it is borderline too loud but is exactly what I wanted at this stage without de-catting/flashing etc etc. I will run like this for the time being. I still have to cover a few of the holes still. If anyone is looking for a quick mod that WILL make your bike sound like it is actually a wild machine, then I highly recommend. Over all cost was negligible in the end. They did send me the wrong tip diameter so I had to buy a little adapter, but if you chose the same, then pick the 54mm diameter clamping side and it will be super easy. Amazon as usual... Cheers    |
|
itsjeezus18
Junior Member
Posts: 78
Likes: 26
Registered: Apr 10, 2018 23:37:54 GMT -7
|
Post by itsjeezus18 on Jun 4, 2019 10:42:55 GMT -7
nice work aavmann that looks good, would love to hear that engine whine! personally would twist the end cap a bit more for that Akrapovic Sticky to show a bit more very cool setup tho!! |
|
lotust251
New Member
Posts: 49
Likes: 11
Registered: Jun 1, 2019 5:39:49 GMT -7
|
Post by lotust251 on Jun 6, 2019 12:34:12 GMT -7
nice work aavmann that looks good, would love to hear that engine whine! personally would twist the end cap a bit more for that Akrapovic Sticky to show a bit more very cool setup tho!! what tip is that is this the one you got? Ebay link |
|
aavmann
Junior Member
Posts: 93
Likes: 36
Registered: Mar 14, 2019 21:05:34 GMT -7
|
Post by aavmann on Jun 6, 2019 17:32:33 GMT -7
nice work aavmann that looks good, would love to hear that engine whine! personally would twist the end cap a bit more for that Akrapovic Sticky to show a bit more very cool setup tho!! what tip is that is this the one you got? Ebay link Hello Mine was from amazon but that looks the same yes. Like I said I ordered the 54mm and then had to cancel to choose express shipping then reorder... it defaulted to 64mm which made me have to hunt for an adapter. The 54mm will literally be a 2 minute install! You won't believe your ears when you start it up.. lol. For me it was all the difference in the world knowing I was on a kick ass machine cause the exhaust note was matched to the lunacy now. My original post has pictures of the tip. Easy to search. Good luck! |
|
exuptoy
Full Member
Posts: 153
Likes: 40
Registered: Oct 29, 2018 12:26:28 GMT -7
|
Post by exuptoy on Jun 9, 2019 0:36:00 GMT -7
aavmann I wouldn’t stress about being lean, the bike will be running closed loop on part throttle openings anyway and use the o2 sensors to richen or lean out fuel demand so it’ll be right. I went the baffled Leo Vince decat route which sounds awesome and this retains the o2 sensors in front of the baffle too. Spoke to my tech who wasn’t concerned in the slightest regarding screwing up the engine due to my ineptitude. I did go to the trouble of fitting a servo buddy for any of the yamahas since the 98 R1 they’re all the same so don’t fall for the seller inflating the price as it has to be the MT10 version, it doesn’t. That will allow you a little extra room under the seat for a disc lock.
|
|
lotust251
New Member
Posts: 49
Likes: 11
Registered: Jun 1, 2019 5:39:49 GMT -7
|
Post by lotust251 on Jun 9, 2019 4:02:06 GMT -7
I left my stock can on and Used some JB weld and filled in all the little holes inside the OEM muffler. Its pretty much just as loud as it was with the tip off and it only cost me 10$.
|
|
ncj01
New Member
Posts: 18
Likes: 6
Registered: Nov 11, 2019 7:52:24 GMT -7
|
Post by ncj01 on Nov 16, 2019 7:40:36 GMT -7
I left my stock can on and Used some JB weld and filled in all the little holes inside the OEM muffler. Its pretty much just as loud as it was with the tip off and it only cost me 10$. Long term review of the JB seal option? |
|
khanartist
New Member
Posts: 38
Likes: 9
Registered: Apr 28, 2019 22:15:09 GMT -7
|
Post by khanartist on Dec 27, 2019 19:12:58 GMT -7
Where is the video of the exhaust mod?
|
|
. I also questioned removing the post, since now you have no idea how you affected exhaust flow, and now the stock map might be too lean, which eventually could ruin the engine. Nobody has a map for that mod, so to play it safe, you'll have to test your bike to make sure your engine is safe (and add a PC5 if needed), since stock maps are borderline lean already. I'd have left the valve alone, since it gives the engine more torque in the low to mid range. Or just permanently open, if you really thought it was restrictive (it's really not). But the damage is done, so just get a dyno with an EGA (exhaust gas analyzer), and report back with results. Maybe you found the source of 50 more HP. Ha ha. Take care.
