gaboy
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Posts: 2
Registered: Oct 19, 2016 17:20:53 GMT -7
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Post by gaboy on Dec 3, 2016 9:28:51 GMT -7
I recently installed a new mid-pipe and muffler,but I made the mistake of starting the engine without the O2's connected.But now I have the DTC light on even though the problem was corrected.Other than the dealer, is there a way to clear fault codes?
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mrhix
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Registered: Sept 11, 2016 19:24:17 GMT -7
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Post by mrhix on Dec 3, 2016 10:26:14 GMT -7
You can buy an OBD reader (like the Autel AL519, $65 Amazon) and an adapter cable (Dynojet 76950878, $40) and clear your own codes as long as you do not have a reflash of the ECU which may disable the OBD port.
Cheers,
MrHix
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kup0236
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Registered: Nov 1, 2016 11:52:23 GMT -7
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Post by kup0236 on Dec 3, 2016 10:31:44 GMT -7
Can I ask which mid pipe you got?
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adamb
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Registered: Sept 22, 2016 17:21:05 GMT -7
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Post by adamb on Dec 3, 2016 12:25:59 GMT -7
If you don't have scan tool you can disconnect the battery. Disconnect the negative terminal, then connect it to the positive cable for min of 30 seconds, this will do a hard reset of the ecm.
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Post by slv on Dec 3, 2016 12:41:02 GMT -7
If you don't have scan tool you can disconnect the battery. Disconnect the negative terminal, then connect it to the positive cable for min of 30 seconds, this will do a hard reset of the ecm. Would this then wipe any flash? |
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Post by arcaos84 on Dec 5, 2016 6:52:39 GMT -7
If you don't have scan tool you can disconnect the battery. Disconnect the negative terminal, then connect it to the positive cable for min of 30 seconds, this will do a hard reset of the ecm. Seems like a dangerous idea, dunno if I'd try that. |
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coyote
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Registered: Aug 3, 2016 20:30:29 GMT -7
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Post by coyote on Dec 5, 2016 6:59:31 GMT -7
If you don't have scan tool you can disconnect the battery. Disconnect the negative terminal, then connect it to the positive cable for min of 30 seconds, this will do a hard reset of the ecm. Seems like a dangerous idea, dunno if I'd try that. Seriously! I wouldn't be the first one trying that one out... |
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Post by arcaos84 on Dec 5, 2016 7:14:25 GMT -7
Seems like a dangerous idea, dunno if I'd try that. Seriously! I wouldn't be the first one trying that one out... Seems like a good way to fry the ECU. Dunno if he was being serious or not. |
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adamb
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Registered: Sept 22, 2016 17:21:05 GMT -7
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Post by adamb on Dec 5, 2016 18:15:31 GMT -7
Seriously! I wouldn't be the first one trying that one out... Seems like a good way to fry the ECU. Dunno if he was being serious or not. You guys are funny. With the negative cable disconnected how would you be able to short/fry and ecu. You wouldn't with out a full circuit. All you are effectively doing is draining any residual voltage from the capacitors in the ecm, so any learned values are erased, which does not include software. This is a very common practice in the automotive world. Years ago when I'd have weird issue with a Saab I'd perform a hard reset and fix the problem. I then coined the procedure a Swedish reboot, with visions of the Swedish chef performing it. If are still worried i can make a video performing it to my own bike, car, truck etc... |
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Post by slv on Dec 6, 2016 7:37:57 GMT -7
Seems like a good way to fry the ECU. Dunno if he was being serious or not. You guys are funny. With the negative cable disconnected how would you be able to short/fry and ecu. You wouldn't with out a full circuit. All you are effectively doing is draining any residual voltage from the capacitors in the ecm, so any learned values are erased, which does not include software. This is a very common practice in the automotive world. Years ago when I'd have weird issue with a Saab I'd perform a hard reset and fix the problem. I then coined the procedure a Swedish reboot, with visions of the Swedish chef performing it. If are still worried i can make a video performing it to my own bike, car, truck etc... Can you clarify the process? Are both cables removed from the battery, then touched together for >30s? Or; Is only the ground cable removed, then touched to the positive battery terminal for >30s? |
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Post by slv on Dec 6, 2016 7:40:23 GMT -7
Another question. It seems you are saying this will remove codes and clear learned settings, but not change the programmed settings (like a 2WDW flash.)
Is this a correct understanding?
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adamb
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Registered: Sept 22, 2016 17:21:05 GMT -7
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Post by adamb on Dec 6, 2016 18:28:38 GMT -7
Depending on how much slack you have in the negative cable will determine if you need to remove both cables. Most likely you'll need to disconnect both the positive and the negative so you'll have enough slack for them to touch each other. I then zip tie the two together.
Yes this will not clear software.
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Post by slv on Dec 6, 2016 18:33:15 GMT -7
Depending on how much slack you have in the negative cable will determine if you need to remove both cables. Most likely you'll need to disconnect both the positive and the negative so you'll have enough slack for them to touch each other. I then zip tie the two together. Yes this will not clear software. Thank you! |
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mnguy88
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Registered: Feb 22, 2017 19:47:44 GMT -7
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Post by mnguy88 on Mar 6, 2017 8:43:21 GMT -7
Did it work?
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dragon26
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Registered: Feb 17, 2018 20:11:12 GMT -7
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Post by dragon26 on Mar 19, 2018 16:52:57 GMT -7
Is there a way to get functionality back to the scan port after you have flashed the ecu (2wdw)?
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mrhix
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Registered: Sept 11, 2016 19:24:17 GMT -7
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Post by mrhix on Mar 19, 2018 18:32:14 GMT -7
The current flashes from 2WDW have the OBD port working now.
Cheers,
MrHix
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dragon26
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Registered: Feb 17, 2018 20:11:12 GMT -7
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Post by dragon26 on Mar 20, 2018 10:06:45 GMT -7
Yes, I heard back from Nels. It just means I have to send back my ECU again. ☹️
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mrhix
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Registered: Sept 11, 2016 19:24:17 GMT -7
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Post by mrhix on Mar 20, 2018 10:15:35 GMT -7
You are not alone (2 returns for OBD functionality).
Cheers,
MrHix
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redjon
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Registered: Jan 13, 2018 10:34:45 GMT -7
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Post by redjon on Aug 7, 2018 10:23:29 GMT -7
Two of the guys I work with tell me the way they clear codes on their cars is to disconnect the negative terminal only and just let it sit for a half hour or so... which sounds safer than connecting to anything else hot or not hot. I'll find out later whether that works.
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redjon
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Registered: Jan 13, 2018 10:34:45 GMT -7
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Post by redjon on Aug 7, 2018 18:32:59 GMT -7
So... updating my last post, my own problem was that I left my key in the ignition in "on" position yesterday and drained the battery. Got a jump and got home, etc. but had the "check engine" light" on all the way. Charged overnight, everything good, and the light stayed on for my rid in, lunch and back, and home.
Talked to two guys at work, and they both said what they do with their cars is disconnect the negative terminal for a half hour and the codes clear. Didn't work.
Tried disconnecting both leads from the battery and connecting them for 30 seconds... also didn't work.
Oil is good, sound is good, everything works... so I'll wait for my next service (about 500 miles) and let the dealer know and assume nothing is broken for now.
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