Deleted
Posts: 0
Registered: Nov 21, 2024 5:48:46 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Aug 29, 2018 21:42:23 GMT -7
First time I ever hear about joining battery cables with the hot side connected. I'd never do that on a modern vehicle, but to each his own. It's like cocking an unloaded gun, pointing it to your head, and pulling the trigger. Why the hell would you want to do either one? Anyway, to totally drain the electrical system after disconnecting the negative cable, simply turn ignition on, and pull the brake lever and press the horn button for a few seconds; that does the trick.
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unixis
New Member
Posts: 2
Registered: Dec 20, 2017 15:40:15 GMT -7
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Post by unixis on Oct 2, 2018 12:54:44 GMT -7
So... updating my last post, my own problem was that I left my key in the ignition in "on" position yesterday and drained the battery. Got a jump and got home, etc. but had the "check engine" light" on all the way. Charged overnight, everything good, and the light stayed on for my rid in, lunch and back, and home. Talked to two guys at work, and they both said what they do with their cars is disconnect the negative terminal for a half hour and the codes clear. Didn't work. Tried disconnecting both leads from the battery and connecting them for 30 seconds... also didn't work. Oil is good, sound is good, everything works... so I'll wait for my next service (about 500 miles) and let the dealer know and assume nothing is broken for now. Just had the same issue a couple of weeks ago. Had the light on after running the bike on the old battery for a bit. I had to replace the battery because it had a dead cell ultimately. Decided to go ahead and get the $35 Autel from Amazon and one of the FTECU adapters to check the codes in case this ever happens again. Came back with a "low voltage" code. Apparently the ECM will save low voltage code if it sees < 10v for more than 60 seconds. Cleared the code and good to go now. Lesson learned... all part of riding computers with engines  . |
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Post by papawheelie on Oct 3, 2018 13:33:37 GMT -7
I think I’m gonna get the DIY code reader/clearer too.
Such a pain to have to take the dang thing to a dealer just to clear the CEL, and hope they don’t try to charge you for the "diagnosis".
In my car, the CEL clears itself once the fault is resolved. For example, I recently had a CPS start to go bad in the car, causing it to start/run a little weird, and a CEL. I drove it around like that for about a week until I had time to buy and replace the CPS. The CEL stayed on for a couple hours after the part was replaced, but soon cleared itself.
That’s the way it should work!
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Deleted
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Registered: Nov 21, 2024 5:48:46 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Oct 3, 2018 14:40:13 GMT -7
Decided to go ahead and get the $35 Autel from Amazon and one of the FTECU adapters to check the codes in case this ever happens again. Hey, would you mind posting a link to that 'FTECU' thingy? I already have a code reader, but don't know if it can read Yamaha codes. Maybe just OBDII generic codes (plus ABS and airbag on mine), like just most such readers. Or does that 'Autel' read Yamaha codes? Any info appreciated. Thx. |
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tmoney
New Member
Posts: 4
Registered: Apr 30, 2019 16:52:52 GMT -7
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Post by tmoney on Aug 10, 2019 17:38:31 GMT -7
So I installed the Scorpion decat link pipe, and removed the cables from the servo. However, i unplugged the servo and replugged it back in after installation and everything was g2g until 20 minutes into the first ride and the CEL came on. It's most likely my error in reinstalling the servo for the CEL to come on. So i ordered the Yamaha OBD2 Harness Type 1 and OBD2 Diagnostic Scanner from woolichracing.com. I'll update this once the scanner/adapter comes in and i clear the code.
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tmoney
New Member
Posts: 4
Registered: Apr 30, 2019 16:52:52 GMT -7
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Post by tmoney on Aug 11, 2019 17:12:16 GMT -7
Meant to add this earlier. I attempted the "hard reset" techniques outlined on page 1. But neither worked. I learned from an fz09 forum that all the new yamahas have to store the CEL codes in flash memory so the hard resets wont work. Gotta have the obd2 and adapter to clear it.
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Deleted
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Registered: Nov 21, 2024 5:48:46 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Aug 12, 2019 8:28:57 GMT -7
There're 'soft' and 'hard' DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes). The soft ones would clear with a 'hard reset'... or on their own, after 'x' ignition cycles without the issue present (like a temporary low voltage, or gas cap not tightened properly on cars). The hard codes don't clear, except with a scan tool.
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tmoney
New Member
Posts: 4
Registered: Apr 30, 2019 16:52:52 GMT -7
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Post by tmoney on Aug 14, 2019 13:32:10 GMT -7
Yup. It was my bad in reconnecting the servo harness that caused the CEL. I just put a skutrnet/woodcraft servo buddy on there and cleared the code with an obd2 reader/yamaha adapter.
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mrcdharwood
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Posts: 167
Likes: 94
Registered: Nov 4, 2017 1:39:49 GMT -7
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Post by mrcdharwood on Aug 17, 2019 0:09:58 GMT -7
You know the Woolich adapter, like any other adapter is four wires. This does the same job for about $25 posted. Add a blue tooth reader for another $5 and download Torque Pro app turning your phone into a diagnostic tool and more for $3 more and you have a complete diagnostic set up for less than $35 that will work on any vehicle with an ODB2 port. What's more, because the Bluetooth reader is so small you can keep it connected under the seat to collect and monitor live time data on road tests with your phone mounted on the bars for instance. rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183894722278   |
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slipwrist
Junior Member
Posts: 60
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Registered: Aug 23, 2022 15:03:56 GMT -7
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Post by slipwrist on Sept 23, 2022 18:04:18 GMT -7
You can buy both the code reader/reset and yamaha 4 pin adapter cable for dirt cheap on Amazon. Don't have to have fancy "woolich" unit. $30 for both.
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squiresca
Junior Member
Posts: 56
Likes: 36
Registered: Apr 8, 2023 17:22:56 GMT -7
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Post by squiresca on Apr 8, 2023 17:52:24 GMT -7
How are you guys getting the codes to clear? I have the adapter for the red port on a 2023 MT10, but even after using 2 different scanning tools, I can read codes but it errors when trying to clear them. I got my ECU flashed today and now my bike doesn't run because I have like 16 codes in there that won't go away and can't be reset and the bike won't start till they are gone.
I think I am totally boned here... Month old bike and its dead in the water...
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Post by RedAndBlack on Apr 8, 2023 18:43:38 GMT -7
How are you guys getting the codes to clear? I have the adapter for the red port on a 2023 MT10, but even after using 2 different scanning tools, I can read codes but it errors when trying to clear them. I got my ECU flashed today and now my bike doesn't run because I have like 16 codes in there that won't go away and can't be reset and the bike won't start till they are gone. I think I am totally boned here... Month old bike and its dead in the water... That sounds more like a problem with the ECU flash rather than your code readers. You should definitely hit up the flash company |
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squiresca
Junior Member
Posts: 56
Likes: 36
Registered: Apr 8, 2023 17:22:56 GMT -7
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Post by squiresca on Apr 13, 2023 7:33:41 GMT -7
How are you guys getting the codes to clear? I have the adapter for the red port on a 2023 MT10, but even after using 2 different scanning tools, I can read codes but it errors when trying to clear them. I got my ECU flashed today and now my bike doesn't run because I have like 16 codes in there that won't go away and can't be reset and the bike won't start till they are gone. I think I am totally boned here... Month old bike and its dead in the water... That sounds more like a problem with the ECU flash rather than your code readers. You should definitely hit up the flash company I think it's something with the 2023 model. I went to a bluetooth ODB scanner and the torque pro app and that did it. |
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janders
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Registered: Jun 8, 2023 11:34:56 GMT -7
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Post by janders on Jun 8, 2023 11:41:40 GMT -7
Just cleared my CEL on my 2016 MT10 by depinning the obd contact and connecting it directly to the pins of my cheap obd2 reader.
Pins on mt10:
1-blue/black
2-blue/white
3-red
4-black
First, deconnect the wires from the white connector housing (depin the contact).
After this, push the wires/connectors onto the following pins on the obd contact.
connecting to obd2 reader:
Pin 1 goes to pin 14
Pin 2 to pin 6
Pin 3 to pin 16
Pin 4 to pin 4 and 5
To use obd reader turn the ignition on.
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