Hey guys,
I just finished installing the Graves Motorsports block-off plates. I had some concerns about where / how hard to pull removing everything for the first time, so I took some photos and thought I'd post them here to maybe help others down the road.
I'm not posting step-by-step instructions, the Yamaha service manual and the Graves instructions should help with that, this is just to help with the removal of the bodywork and how to get to plates in place.
Note 1 IMPORTANT: To avoid an engine fault code you need to either:
1. Leave the servo motor plugged in
2. Clip the connector from the motor and solder the two wires together, and leave that installed.
3. If you have FT ECU flash kit, you can disable the PAIR / AIS system. ...You MUST do this prior to removing the AIS system or you will get an engine code. If this happens, the code will be stored in ECU memory (even after the fault is cleared in FT) and your cruise control will not work!
Note 2:I'm told the tank can be removed while leaving the scoops in place, but I have not done it. It seems to involve removing the first two clips on each side (that secure the scoop trim-rings), removing the top-middle tank shroud cover and the 2 bolts beneath it, removing the bolts (1 each side) at the rear of each tank shroud, and detaching the 2 (each side) connections between the side tank shrouds and the tank proper. ...apparently you can do this and the shrouds and scoops will move out of the way enough to lift and remove the gas tank.
...but I haven't actually done this (yet)
Note 3:The plug for the PAIR servo is NOT a press to release, you actually lift the tab on the servo side of the plug to release it (this drove me crazy trying to pinch the sides until I realized that I'm just an idiot ...and it easily unclipped).
Let's begin:
One you undo the push-clips (aka plastic rivets) (x2 each side) that hold the scoop trim in place, you need to pull the trim rings toward front of the bike. I like to use an old gift card to leverage the snap connector free as I pull the trim ring toward the front of the bike (the plastic card won't scratch the finish).
The only snap feature is located at the outside-top edge of the scoop.
The scoops, similarly, have only one real snap feature holding them in place. It is the forward most of the two tabs where the top of the scoop meets the tank cover.
After removing the two scoop bolts at the rear of the scoop (don't lose the nylon washers) pulling from the rear of the scoop will easily free the rear tab ...you just keep pulling out at a bit of an angle and the front tab will pop free.
There are other tabs (one near the front of the scoop on the top of the inner portion, but these come free easily.
I don't have pictures of removing (loosening) the inner scoop bits (the part where all the electronics are mounted), but they are the most challenging. There are a pair of Philips-head screws holding them in place and one 10mm bolt. You have to remove these to remove the tank covers.
The middle tank cover piece is held in by two push-clips near the triple clamp. It fits snugly in place and also snaps into the outer tank covers at the very top (nearest the rider).
While there are a pair of snap connectors at the top/rear and the bottom/front holding this part in place, the rear two are the first you should free up; lift it straight up from the edge nearest the gas cap to pop it free, and the front two (near where you removed the two plastic rivets) will come free easily.
Once it is removed you will see the two 8mm bolts holding the L & R tank covers in place. With those, and the two rear bolts removed, the covers will unsnap from the tank by pulling straight out to the side (there is a rubber grommeted pin nearest the rider, and a plastic "rivet" towards the middle of the tank). I apologize, I failed to get pictures of this, but it's pretty easy so long as you pull straight out.
Next, you undo the two 10mm bolts holding the sides of the gas tank in place (one on either side) and rotate the tank up on its rear mount. I use a rubber mallet to prop the tank up against the air box. Once there you see the two vent lines.
With those removed you need to get into the tight space left for the electrical connector and the fuel line.
The connector is a simple press to remove type, and the fuel line has a gray "C" clip that holds it in place. Use a flat blade screwdriver to pop that clip down towards the engine, and the adapter will come straight off. You can now remove the rear tank bolt and set the tank aside.
The Graves kit comes with the two plates and a rubber cap for your airbox.
Note the machined area on the plates, this is to accommodate the pin on the PAIR valves in the bike, and they can only go on one way (with the Graves logo facing the front of the bike).
This is all the crap you will remove.
...which sits in the bike like this:
That gray plastic nub in this picture is on the PAIR servo and, you will note, was plugged into the air inlet. It is brittle, and you can use some wire cutters to clip at the edges and it will crack off, allowing you to reinstall it into the air inlet, plugging it (I filed the edges down smooth).
Once the plates are in place, you can put it all back together again.
I hope this helps.
