Deleted
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Registered: Nov 21, 2024 1:47:05 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2017 15:11:34 GMT -7
It goes on the left side underneath the airbox where the AIS hose plugged into.
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nftyper
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Post by nftyper on Apr 9, 2017 15:17:33 GMT -7
It goes on the left side underneath the airbox where the AIS hose plugged into. I guess i need to put something on mines. I got the plates from 2wheeldynoworks, but they didnt come with a rubber plug.
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mikem73
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Post by mikem73 on Apr 9, 2017 16:48:34 GMT -7
Any type of rubber plug will work just make sure it has something like a clamp or wire wrapped around it to keep it in place and make sure it slips over the connection!
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harry76
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Post by harry76 on Apr 13, 2017 16:28:30 GMT -7
The Graves instructions say to move the radiator to reach the AIS pump electrical plug, is this necessary?
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guywithfz10
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Post by guywithfz10 on Apr 13, 2017 17:13:28 GMT -7
The Graves instructions say to move the radiator to reach the AIS pump electrical plug, is this necessary? Nope you can access everything from the top after you remove the air duct.
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mikem73
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Post by mikem73 on Apr 13, 2017 17:33:40 GMT -7
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mikem73
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Post by mikem73 on Apr 13, 2017 17:42:03 GMT -7
The Graves instructions say to move the radiator to reach the AIS pump electrical plug, is this necessary? No that could be costly and you could end up denting a very expensive radiator. I looked at that today after I had my tank off and was like what in the? There is hardly any room to work on it from the front of the bike. Actually more space doing it this way.
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nftyper
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Post by nftyper on Apr 14, 2017 5:42:38 GMT -7
I found somewhat of a simpler way of removing the tank shrouds without having to remove the scoops which is simple but seems to take more time. simply remove the screw at the bottom corner of the tank shroud then remove the center tank piece after that remove the two bolts that screw into the rubber grommets that are under the center piece. Finally pull the side shrouds straight out from around the gas cap as noted in the other post and waaalaaa you will have access to the tank bolts on each side that you can simply unbolt and swing the gas tank up to remove the hoses and gain access to the air box. how to up loadThis is how i do it. Just let the plastics hang to the side in one piece.
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Post by Cruizin on Jun 18, 2017 16:01:51 GMT -7
Here is a really good Video on removing the FZ10 tank/scoop and AIS . This guy is making some really good mt-10 videos. Someone tell him to come join us here!
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fzwaffle
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Post by fzwaffle on Jun 18, 2017 18:29:03 GMT -7
I followed that guide when I got rid of AIS, definitely the best on youtube right now as far as guides go!
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fz10monster
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Post by fz10monster on Jun 20, 2017 5:58:00 GMT -7
Great job to everyone for the tips and help. I just found a new video detailing this process on the FZ-10! Looking forward to doing mine this weekend.
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mother
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Post by mother on Jun 20, 2017 7:34:34 GMT -7
Great job to everyone for the tips and help. I just found a new video detailing this process on the FZ-10! Looking forward to doing mine this weekend. Hmmm, I feel like I may have seen that one before... somewhere... Nonetheless, it's a great guide and probably what I'll use as a reference when I do mine!
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Post by RedAndBlack on Jun 20, 2017 12:46:26 GMT -7
I'm not sure if I should do this myself. My mechanical skills are absolutely horrendous. At the same time, I'm paranoid about sending it to a shop in case they mess something up and everything goes downhill for my engine when I start the bike up Honestly it was easier than I expected. Just took a little patience with the body panels making sure I didn't break any clips. Especially with all the people on this forum...any question you might come across could be answered in minutes. I presume then you probably won't be doing your own spark plugs then? You can wait until you send it in for your spark plug change. This mod is basically on the way to do spark plug removal. A good mechanic won't charge you much extra, if anything at all.
And be careful with any Philips heads screws. The strip with literally no effort at all.
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mother
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Post by mother on Jun 26, 2017 4:56:08 GMT -7
Worth noting that the grey piece that wraps around the air valve and plugs into the bottom of the air box can be rotated 1/8 of a turn and slid off the valve. Then that piece can be reinserted into the grommet in the air box. No need to cut it up.
Also, I know I've seen it mentioned elsewhere but not sure if it's in this thread. Do yourself a favor and do the reflash/O2 sensor elimination at the same time. The right side O2 sensor plug is normally a mofo to get to, but with the tank off it's easy to access.
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Deleted
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Registered: Nov 21, 2024 1:47:05 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Jun 26, 2017 5:15:22 GMT -7
Do yourself a favor and do the reflash/O2 sensor elimination at the same time. The right side O2 sensor plug is normally a mofo to get to, but with the tank off it's easy to access. Yup.....Easy peasy lemon squeazy with the tank off.
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jonnyrotton
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Post by jonnyrotton on Aug 22, 2017 21:57:27 GMT -7
Zenmoto, I just want to make certain that soldering the pump wires together after removing the pump is all that is needed to stop any fault codes from popping up. So there doesn't need to be any kind of resistor to mimic the pump still being there, is this correct?
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av8er
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If my bike could travel at the speed of light, would my headlights work?
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Post by av8er on Aug 24, 2017 4:37:58 GMT -7
Zenmoto, I just want to make certain that soldering the pump wires together after removing the pump is all that is needed to stop any fault codes from popping up. So there doesn't need to be any kind of resistor to mimic the pump still being there, is this correct? There are several ways to avoid the faults. It can be disabled with the flash, purchase a plug to close the loop on flea bay, or as you asked, cut the plug from the AIS and solder the wires together and plug back in which mimics the pigtail that can be purchased. This is the easiest and cheapest until you have it flashed. After its flashed, you can pull the plug if you like or leave it as is until you have a need to go back into(spark plug change) or whatever. Mine has been like this for about a year. Never had a fault. I flashed mine with FTECU software and autotune. I have the Graves EVO now and reinstalled the exup. If a better setup is out there, I don't know what it could be.
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baron
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Post by baron on Aug 24, 2017 9:30:43 GMT -7
Did this myself and it was easier than I expected. Highly recommend the 2wdw flash. can't see doing a decat and the block off without it.
Also, search youtube for Ritchies Bikes fz10. he does a video tutorial that is excellent.
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dewaynehasty
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Post by dewaynehasty on Apr 15, 2018 18:24:32 GMT -7
Stupid question probably but do you have to drain the fuel tank before disconnecting the fuel line?
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face
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Post by face on Apr 15, 2018 20:25:31 GMT -7
Dewayne you do not, it just helps with weight if you’re doing it by yourself
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