Hey gang. Finally took my bike for a long day ride (300 miles, so now 400 on the clock), and exactly at 200 miles, in the middle of nowhere (hwy 26 towards Hillsboro/Gila), with no cell service anywhere close and not a single car for 30 miles. Happened about 25 miles after fueling up at the only gas station on the way. It wasn't top-tier, but it's a high-volume gas station. Bike was running fine, so gas couldn't have been that bad. Didn't feel any difference, but it scared the crap out of me for a few miles, until I realized it has to be something that doesn't seem to be affecting the bike badly. Anyway, had to stop at the same gas station on the way back, put enough gas to make it safely, and stopped at the selling dealer. Turns out they don't have a code reader until next week, so had to come home with the CEL. Bike runs like before, but it definitely takes longer to start now. One time it didn't quite catch and stalled. Started fine the second time. It takes about 1/2 second longer to start. Other than that, bike was fantastic. Only got a bit of knee pain, but the comfort seat (when it becomes available in late Nov) should fix that. Plus the rock hard seat too. Vibes were by far the least of any 4-cyl bike I've owned, so very pleased. Had to engage cruise just a couple of times to give my right hand a break.
Wish the guy who made a OBDII harness would sell them. I'd gladly pay $50 for one right now. He he. Will have to search for his thread to buy the necessary parts to make one. For now, will disconnect the battery and see what happens, but don't expect the code to clear, since the only CELs that clear are the EVAP ones, and my TX bike doesn't have that. I hope it's something that doesn't affect the bike at all, but we'll see. By the way, got awesome mileage. Overall 40.2 mpg, and with a lot of 80+ mph riding. Noticed with cruise at 80 I was getting between 40 and 41, and tucked in 45 to 46. If you need to stretch your range, you can do that folks.
A bit disappointed I got my first CEL ever on a brand new bike, but happy as hell it didn't let me down by not stranding me. I'm suspecting a bad O2 sensor, but will keep you posted when I know what it is next week. Wonder if any other new bike has gotten a CEL this early. Please post to have an idea what could be. Many thanks. JC
Not sure on your CEL light but the OBDII is straight forward to make and you don't even need to be able to solder but it would obviously be better if you did. Mine cost me around $5 for the Sumitomo MT090 4 way plug and pins which could even be terminated with a needle nose pliers and I put it straight on the end of my cheap ass Autel code scanner which I got from eBay a long time ago for about $10 (Im in the uk but the kit is all universal). I update d the OBD thread with my updates. Go ahead and get the bits it really is easy.
Here you go, I'm not sure if this guy will post from the UK but this is less than $50 although the postage may be a further $20-30.
I wrote up the how-to for building your own OBD-II connector (unless someone else posted a new one since I did ) and it really is pretty easy to do but I get not wanting to worry about messing something up and just buying a pre-built one. If I'm the "guy" you'd hope would sell them... ain't no way, I don't want the liability.
Wish the guy who made a OBDII harness would sell them. I'd gladly pay $50 for one right now. He he.
If I'm the "guy" you'd hope would sell them... ain't no way, I don't want the liability.
Yeah, apparently you were. Ha ha. But your reasoning makes sense in this litigious country. Moving on, thank you for all the links folks. Now I'm not sure I want to spend around $60 on just an adapter, when I could buy that Yamaha specific unit from the UK for the same price. Or better yet, just buy a cheapo one like this: www.ebay.com/itm/Red-Car-Auto-OBDII-OBD2-Diagnostic-OBD-Scanner-Tool-Fault-Code-Reader-LJ4/112956712508?epid=5018443626&hash=item1a4cbea63c:g:xh4AAOSwugha3Zqg:rk:7:pf:0, and basically make my own. Now between those 2 options. Trust the UK guy, or spend less and do it right? He he. But before making that decision, do ALL OBD-II readers have the exact same wire colors, to avoid making a costly mistake? Does anybody know for certain? And my last question is I don't mind spending a bit more for a better or more compact reader, to carry all the time in my tailbag, in case it happens again. I need to check Exuptoy again to see where to buy the mating connector for Yamahas, and just cut the OBD-II connector from the device, and attach the new one. The UK ones seems super cheap for $60, but want your opinion if you'd just buy that, or make one yourself. Guess if it provides the info we need and can erase codes, should be fine, no? Thanks again gang. By the way, checked everything externally, and no obvious issues like a broken speed sensor, or stuff like that. Since bike runs fine, it's safe to exclude critical engine sensors, but it still could be one of the other engine sensors, the EXUP valve, or an O2 sensor. I think will pass on disconnecting the battery, in case it erases any codes. Rather know what triggered it, to take corrective action. Have a great afternoon.
and all I did to ensure colours were correct was to follow the wiring from the diagram supplied below which shows the front and rear pin outs of both make and female plugs when I purchased my faulty OBD2 connector and it led me to the blue / purple / yellow and green wires at pins 4 (green), 6 (Purple), 14 (Blue) and 16 (yellow). it may be right for you.
You are welcome too a copy of my diagram if you can follow my scrawls!
If you need my advice e on my scrawls let me know via PM or in here.
Thanks a million brother. Your writing is clear, but have 2 questions. First, is that link exactly the female adapter you ordered? I was under the impression each of the 'big 4' (Honda, Suzuki, Kawasaki and Yamaha) have a different connector, since the link for the adapter sells them depending on what brand you own. If it was the same connector, it wouldn't say that, no? Just want to make sure the linked one is exactly what you used, since it lists all other 3 brands but not Yamaha, hence my skepticism. The second question is if the view of the female connector you drew is the front or rear view of the connector, to know exactly where each pin goes. I'm pretty sure it should say (A,B,C,D) somewhere, but want double assurance. He he. Finally, glad to see all OBD-II connectors should have the same colored wires. Hope that's the case for me. Hey, I'm looking for the smallest unit possible that will do the job, to stash it inside the seat area. Do you happen to have one that you recommend? Don't want to go with the cheapest if it could be crap. Rather pay a bit more for someething that will work. Those cheapo overseas units scare me a little, but maybe there's no reason to. Thanks.
Unfortunately no (no stands yet). And never do that with the ignition on anyway. But thank you for that info; didn't know the CEL would come on under those conditions; thought TC would just apply the rear brake. But does the CEL go away by itself in that case? Curious. Just checked all lights, and nothing seems to be amiss. The only thing I noticed is engine takes slightly longer to start; maybe it's normal with the CEL on. Probably won't use the bike until I can read the code. Or dealer calls that they have a new one themselves, whichever occurs first .
Yeah, the MT090 in my link is indeed for the Yamaha as are the M/F ones in your link and the scanner looks ideal for your needs.
One guy on the UK MT forum has just done the standard adaptor lead as in the morbo post and then bought a bluetooth ELM327V2 and left it permanently connected under his seat so he can view any issues with an android app, so it really is a case of difference strokes for different folks. I purchased 3 different bluetooth adaptors when I had my Triumph before it would connect so that is the reason I didn't take this path.
You may find your problem is something like a faulty O2 sensor or maybe a faulty crank or cam sensor as I know some vehicles will then swap out to another sensor to replicate what it needs from elsewhere, hence the time it now takes to start.
The info above regarding the CEL being brought on by the rear wheel speed sensor is correct if lubing your chain on the paddock stand as it also expects to see the front wheel turning if the rear is and the bike is in gear and when it brings on the CEL, due to Euro4 rules the bike no longer clears an old code after 3 heat cycles if the code is no longer valid as they want you to take it in to the dealer to investigate the code!!!
In my diagram I have written abcd alongside the colours in the chart above but to be sure, the red pen drawing of the plug at the bottom is drawn looking into the plug so you are viewing end of the pins, so (A) BLUE is top left, (B) PURPLE top right, (C) YELLOW bottom right and (D) GREEN bottom left.
If you have a brain fart and end up with the pins the wrong way round you can just lift the locking tab inside the plug and pull them back out.
If you purchase the scanner and want some clarification, because say the colours are different, just take a pic of the inside of the scanner OBD plug with the wires still connected and post it here and I will tell you which colours you'll need but it really should be straight forward using the ODB2 plug views from the diagram sheet I attached.
The red pen drawing of the plug at the bottom is drawn looking into the plug so you are viewing end of the pins, so (A) BLUE is top left, (B) PURPLE top right, (C) YELLOW bottom right and (D) GREEN bottom left.
Hey, thanks for the help, but now you have me all confused with the above, since those colors don't match neither your pin diagram (blue is on terminal 7, supposedly unused), nor my OBDII wires. To avoid any confusion, let me post my wire colors on the bike, and the appropriate pins on the OBDII car terminal, and that should be okay, regardless of wire color on the reader we buy. Let's assume the pins are exactly like on your red drawing, with both male and female terminals looking at us. Let me start with the bike terminal looking at me like on your red picture:
TOP LEFT: Blue with white stripe TOP RIGHT: Blue with black stripe BOTTOM LEFT: Red with blue stripe BOTTOM RIGHT: Black with white stripe
Now, the female connector facing us in your red diagram should have the following wires:
TOP LEFT: Wire from terminal 14 (supposedly brown with white stripe) TOP RIGHT: Wire from terminal 6 (supposedly green) BOTTOM LEFT: wire from terminal 4 (supposedly orange) BOTTOM RIGHT: Wire from terminal 16 (supposedly green with white stripe)
I don't want to focus on colors, because they could be different, but stated the colors on my bike because those should be exactly the same for all of us FZ/MT owners. And just put in parenthesis the color the stated terminals should be. And yes, I'll check those 4 wire colors before cutting anything, and noting where each should be. Once the order is set in stone, no risk of making any errors, even if the wire colors end up being completely different . Their location is what takes precedence, correct? Please let us know if the above wire mating is correct . Thank you.
Right I'm not speaking of the blue wire colour of the printed text which was on the faulty OBD2 lead I am speaking of the red pen colours in the middle column. Follow pin 14 across and in the middle you will see my writing J2234 Can Low signal BU (Blue), Pin 16 Battery Power YE (Yellow), Pin 4 Earth GR (which incidentally was shorted in the plug to pin 5 if I remember correctly) (Green) and Pin 6 Can J2234 High signal PR (Purple).
I hope this is clearer. You may find pin 4 and 5 are shorted or wired together in your scanner as was mine as a datum reference to confirm pins 4 & 5 to at least verify the actual PIN numbers in the OBD scanner. You will notice from my red numbers down the middle that only 9 pins out of the 16 in the OBD plug fitted to the scanner were actually connected to wires.
Also the bike has the female socket pins and the terminals from the scanner should have the male pins so you can reach in and pull them through with a needle nose pliers. Exactly the same layout as Morbo's pics in the original adaptor thread. You are correct regarding the bike loom, that is at least the common denominator.
Unless the bike is throwing an errant code when there is no real defect (like running the rear wheel while on a stand) you are still going to have to go to the dealer to get the problem fixed while under warranty. I suppose knowing what the code is is worthwhile for information sake but in most cases it is still going to need outside intervention. I don't think our bikes are that prone for errant codes, I've not seen any in two years of ownership. Maybe I'm lucky.
It would seem elptxjc has an issue that will require repair by the dealer, I doubt the CEL appeared for no reason.
Unfortunately, no. You basically only renamed my wire positions (Pin A=UPPER LEFT, Pin B=UPPER RIGHT, Pin C=BOTTOM RIGHT, and Pin D=BOTTOM LEFT). But you didn't specify exactly which of the 16 wire position(s) from the OBDII plug go to each of the 4 pins on the bike's female plug. If 2 wires are fused together, like you said, do they go together to the female pin, or just one wire? And which one? Without that clearly stated, like I posted, I'm not going to mess with this. I don't care about wire colors since they can be different. I only care about transfering the correct wire positions on the OBDII plug to the correct wire positions on the bike's female plug, whichever color they are. For example, wire positions 4 and 5 go to Pin A/UPPER LEFT, etc. Anyway, since the UK unit doesn't fit under the tank, will just order an adapter (found one on eBay for $30 shipped from your link on post #2 <Thanks>), and just use my reader at home when necessary. The good news is it also reads ABS codes, which the other doesn't. Thanks anyway, and sorry for the bother.
Evitzee, of course the CEL came on for a reason man; that's pretty obvious. And it's also most likely something that needs to be replaced by the dealer, but not necessarily. It could be a speed sensor gap out of tolerance (I'm going to check them tomorrow), a few misfires (just one doesn't trigger a CEL), etc. I'm going to know what it is either by me or by dealer, then while they get the part(s) needed, I'd remove any plastic to get to the part and/or connector, so dealer only touches my bike the least possible. Then I can put and route everything together back like factory, recheck torques, etc. Finally, if it was a critical sensor, like the crank or cam position sensor, bike wouldn't start at all to protect the motor (car or bike). But could be an intake sensor, or a myriad other things. I'll find out soon enough . Bike could be harder to start because of not very good gas; didn't have a choice. Put just enough the last time to make it back safely, but fueled up before getting home close to hitting reserve. Should be resolved next time I start it; we'll see. A bad intake sensor could also slow down starting. But at least it wasn't a critical sensor, nor a plug, coil, or injector, or I'd have noticed a change immediately. Thanks gang.
I've not heard of any CEL's that have stopped the bike from running, it's always some sensor or equivalent but the bike is not incapacitated. That is by design, no sense stranding a bike by the road by an errant sensor. You'll almost certainly have to have the dealer clear the code and correct the problem, whatever it may be. Fuel these days is very strictly controlled per EPA regs, not likely you have a bad batch. It's always possible, but not likely. Unless you have a dealer who is all thumbs they should be able to figure out what is causing the problem and remedy it. Good luck.
If either the crank or cam sensor goes bad, you'd absolutely get a CEL and your engine would quit immediately. Without knowing where the crank or cam is, a modern engine simply can't run. It's rare one fails, but it can happen. The only other troubling dash light you can get is the oil pressure one, but that's it; there're just 2 'bad' lights on the bike. And fuel absolutely goes bad man; where do you live? My dealer put bad gas on my bike, wherever they bought it from. Time and water are the main enemies, so small gas stations with little traffic are a no-no, especially with premium fuel, but sometimes we have no choice. At any rate, I'm not worried about my CEL. Will see what it is, and decide what to do. No big deal. A minor inconvenience, but there's always a first time. Just hope it's the first and last . Later.
EDIT: No sense to keep discussing stupidities, or speculating. Already ordered an OBDII-to-4-PIN harness, and will come back with an update when I know what the CEL was for. Thanks for all the help gang.
An update. The cable got here surprisingly quick. It's code P0476, which is the EXUP system. Could be a connector/harness issue, ECU issue, servo motor issue, cables issue, or valve stuck or something. Need to leave now for a couple of hours, but my plan is to erase the code, and see if it comes again. If it does, to disconnect the battery, to reset the ECU, and if it comes back, I'd like to test the butterfly to isolate the issue to the valve. I don't think it's the wiring, since it didn't throw a code before, and have done nothing to affect it. Right now just removed the connector from the servo motor and will reconnect it before erasing the code, and see what happens. Hope the ECU tests the EXUP, meaning I should feel it cycling (will check that). If not, at least if the CEL goes away after a second or so, it's not getting set immediately, which would be a good sign. The good news is if you're easy on the throttle, even if it remains closed, there shouldn't be any power issue since I'm in break-in still. Saw a video where the valve barely opened a little under very heavy throttle. Unfortunately, it was a royal PITA to install my Graves slip-on, so removing it to watch the valve is not an option, but I could remove the cap and maybe I could tell which position it's in. All words of wisdom and comments welcome. If I fail in all my attempts, obviously would take the bike to dealer and let them replace it. The good news it's not any engine sensor, which is great news. It should be easily replaced, but don't want to give up on it yet. Will also call dealer tech and ask him if he wants me to erase it. He obviously doesn't have a code reader yet or he'd have called me. If it doesn't come back, great. If it does after the steps above, then we're definitely dealing with a defective component. The only problem is I don't know what to spray on the butterfly itself, since it gets so hot in there. I'd like to just check it's movement. Hopefully there's a way to easily disconnect the cables and move it from the top, after removing the cover on top of the pipe. Thanks gang.
Oh, forgot to mention I checked most of the codes the other day, and there's a disturbing number of codes that disable the bike after shutting the engine off that shouldn't, like the side stand switch. That's utterly stupid IMO. Thankfully it didn't happen to me. Therefore, decided it's well worth it to order a small reader and carry it along with the adapter I got from eBay at all times. Will also make a spreadsheet with all codes, and print a page with them and carry it with the reader, so I can extract any codes, know what it is, and hopefully erase the code to be able to start the bike again. Only if it's a critical sensor we'd be f***ed, but it's rare they fail. And at least we'd know what it is. Hopefully the small readers fit under the tank, so it doesn't take space in the tailbag, although it's small enough not to be a big issue. But since I have to remove the seat anyway to get to the connector, hope it fits in there. The cheapest ones are the smallest, so hopefully they'll work. Will keep you posted on that.
I removed my servo and fitted a servo buddy which freed up a square 75mmx75mm (ish?) under the seat to take my disc lock. Also under the seat near the battery is my scanner and on the backside of the seat my pocket plugger tyre repair kit.
Last Edit: Nov 13, 2018 15:54:22 GMT -7 by exuptoy
squid4life: Dammit....just the story of my life....always Late..
Nov 9, 2018 15:59:57 GMT -7
Nov 9, 2018 15:57:40 GMT -7
squid4life: Do you still have the bottom piece(the one that covers the key hole)? Also i will like the plate light...if so lmk..
Nov 9, 2018 15:57:25 GMT -7
squid4life: Are you still selling the bike?
Nov 3, 2018 3:06:18 GMT -7
dharma54: Greetings to all, hope everyone is healthy and happy !
Nov 2, 2018 13:00:59 GMT -7
exuptoy: Hi guys, newbie here from the uk. Just felt I had to register as I have today fitted the Leo to my 2018 10. Awesome sound on it but still a little loud with my Scorpion RP1-GP. Hope you guys like it.
Oct 29, 2018 12:27:57 GMT -7