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Post by Deleted on Nov 7, 2018 1:02:17 GMT -7
Hey gang. Finally took my bike for a long day ride (300 miles, so now 400 on the clock), and exactly at 200 miles, in the middle of nowhere (hwy 26 towards Hillsboro/Gila), with no cell service anywhere close and not a single car for 30 miles. Happened about 25 miles after fueling up at the only gas station on the way. It wasn't top-tier, but it's a high-volume gas station. Bike was running fine, so gas couldn't have been that bad. Didn't feel any difference, but it scared the crap out of me for a few miles, until I realized it has to be something that doesn't seem to be affecting the bike badly. Anyway, had to stop at the same gas station on the way back, put enough gas to make it safely, and stopped at the selling dealer. Turns out they don't have a code reader until next week, so had to come home with the CEL. Bike runs like before, but it definitely takes longer to start now. One time it didn't quite catch and stalled. Started fine the second time. It takes about 1/2 second longer to start. Other than that, bike was fantastic. Only got a bit of knee pain, but the comfort seat (when it becomes available in late Nov) should fix that. Plus the rock hard seat too. Vibes were by far the least of any 4-cyl bike I've owned, so very pleased. Had to engage cruise just a couple of times to give my right hand a break.
Wish the guy who made a OBDII harness would sell them. I'd gladly pay $50 for one right now. He he. Will have to search for his thread to buy the necessary parts to make one. For now, will disconnect the battery and see what happens, but don't expect the code to clear, since the only CELs that clear are the EVAP ones, and my TX bike doesn't have that. I hope it's something that doesn't affect the bike at all, but we'll see. By the way, got awesome mileage. Overall 40.2 mpg, and with a lot of 80+ mph riding. Noticed with cruise at 80 I was getting between 40 and 41, and tucked in 45 to 46. If you need to stretch your range, you can do that folks.
A bit disappointed I got my first CEL ever on a brand new bike, but happy as hell it didn't let me down by not stranding me. I'm suspecting a bad O2 sensor, but will keep you posted when I know what it is next week. Wonder if any other new bike has gotten a CEL this early. Please post to have an idea what could be. Many thanks.
JC
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exuptoy
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Post by exuptoy on Nov 7, 2018 2:54:15 GMT -7
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morbo
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Post by morbo on Nov 7, 2018 9:24:14 GMT -7
Wish the guy who made a OBDII harness would sell them. I'd gladly pay $50 for one right now. He he. If you really don't want to go through the time/hassle of building one you can just buy one for $40+S&H here - ftecu.com/shop/kds-to-obdii-adapter-harnsess/I wrote up the how-to for building your own OBD-II connector (unless someone else posted a new one since I did  ) and it really is pretty easy to do but I get not wanting to worry about messing something up and just buying a pre-built one. If I'm the "guy" you'd hope would sell them... ain't no way, I don't want the liability. |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 7, 2018 11:41:18 GMT -7
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exuptoy
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Post by exuptoy on Nov 7, 2018 16:29:48 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Nov 7, 2018 17:13:46 GMT -7
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Post by RedAndBlack on Nov 7, 2018 19:17:10 GMT -7
Did you just get stands? Did you run the bike on the stands, like the rear wheel to do chain clean or something? That causes a CEL.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 7, 2018 22:49:46 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Nov 7, 2018 23:57:19 GMT -7
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exuptoy
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Post by exuptoy on Nov 8, 2018 2:48:36 GMT -7
Yeah, the MT090 in my link is indeed for the Yamaha as are the M/F ones in your link and the scanner looks ideal for your needs. One guy on the UK MT forum has just done the standard adaptor lead as in the morbo post and then bought a bluetooth ELM327V2 and left it permanently connected under his seat so he can view any issues with an android app, so it really is a case of difference strokes for different folks. I purchased 3 different bluetooth adaptors when I had my Triumph before it would connect so that is the reason I didn't take this path. You may find your problem is something like a faulty O2 sensor or maybe a faulty crank or cam sensor as I know some vehicles will then swap out to another sensor to replicate what it needs from elsewhere, hence the time it now takes to start. The info above regarding the CEL being brought on by the rear wheel speed sensor is correct if lubing your chain on the paddock stand as it also expects to see the front wheel turning if the rear is and the bike is in gear and when it brings on the CEL, due to Euro4 rules the bike no longer clears an old code after 3 heat cycles if the code is no longer valid as they want you to take it in to the dealer to investigate the code!!! It's gonna get worse guys! |
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exuptoy
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Post by exuptoy on Nov 8, 2018 2:54:56 GMT -7
In my diagram I have written abcd alongside the colours in the chart above but to be sure, the red pen drawing of the plug at the bottom is drawn looking into the plug so you are viewing end of the pins, so (A) BLUE is top left, (B) PURPLE top right, (C) YELLOW bottom right and (D) GREEN bottom left.
If you have a brain fart and end up with the pins the wrong way round you can just lift the locking tab inside the plug and pull them back out.
Hope this helps.
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exuptoy
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Post by exuptoy on Nov 8, 2018 2:58:32 GMT -7
If you purchase the scanner and want some clarification, because say the colours are different, just take a pic of the inside of the scanner OBD plug with the wires still connected and post it here and I will tell you which colours you'll need but it really should be straight forward using the ODB2 plug views from the diagram sheet I attached.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 8, 2018 12:15:23 GMT -7
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exuptoy
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Post by exuptoy on Nov 8, 2018 13:29:06 GMT -7
Right I'm not speaking of the blue wire colour of the printed text which was on the faulty OBD2 lead I am speaking of the red pen colours in the middle column. Follow pin 14 across and in the middle you will see my writing J2234 Can Low signal BU (Blue), Pin 16 Battery Power YE (Yellow), Pin 4 Earth GR (which incidentally was shorted in the plug to pin 5 if I remember correctly) (Green) and Pin 6 Can J2234 High signal PR (Purple). I hope this is clearer. You may find pin 4 and 5 are shorted or wired together in your scanner as was mine as a datum reference to confirm pins 4 & 5 to at least verify the actual PIN numbers in the OBD scanner. You will notice from my red numbers down the middle that only 9 pins out of the 16 in the OBD plug fitted to the scanner were actually connected to wires. Also the bike has the female socket pins and the terminals from the scanner should have the male pins so you can reach in and pull them through with a needle nose pliers. Exactly the same layout as Morbo's pics in the original adaptor thread. You are correct regarding the bike loom, that is at least the common denominator.  Does this now make sense? |
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Post by evitzee on Nov 8, 2018 14:10:18 GMT -7
Unless the bike is throwing an errant code when there is no real defect (like running the rear wheel while on a stand) you are still going to have to go to the dealer to get the problem fixed while under warranty. I suppose knowing what the code is is worthwhile for information sake but in most cases it is still going to need outside intervention. I don't think our bikes are that prone for errant codes, I've not seen any in two years of ownership. Maybe I'm lucky.
It would seem elptxjc has an issue that will require repair by the dealer, I doubt the CEL appeared for no reason. |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 8, 2018 16:46:34 GMT -7
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Post by evitzee on Nov 8, 2018 21:41:28 GMT -7
I've not heard of any CEL's that have stopped the bike from running, it's always some sensor or equivalent but the bike is not incapacitated. That is by design, no sense stranding a bike by the road by an errant sensor. You'll almost certainly have to have the dealer clear the code and correct the problem, whatever it may be. Fuel these days is very strictly controlled per EPA regs, not likely you have a bad batch. It's always possible, but not likely. Unless you have a dealer who is all thumbs they should be able to figure out what is causing the problem and remedy it. Good luck.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 8, 2018 23:24:35 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Nov 13, 2018 15:25:00 GMT -7
An update. The adapter cable got here surprisingly quick. It's code P0476, which is the EXUP system. Will do the troubleshooting later, and post results. But read most of the diagnostic codes before the cable arrived, and there were a disturbing number of them that would leave you stranded if not carrying a code reader to erase those codes, and being able to start the bike again. Thankfully, it didn't happen to me, but will order a small reader and carry it along with the adapter, plus a spreadsheet with all code descriptions, just in case. Hopefully the small reader fits under the tank.
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exuptoy
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Post by exuptoy on Nov 13, 2018 15:53:08 GMT -7
I removed my servo and fitted a servo buddy which freed up a square 75mmx75mm (ish?) under the seat to take my disc lock. Also under the seat near the battery is my scanner and on the backside of the seat my pocket plugger tyre repair kit.  |
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) and it really is pretty easy to do but I get not wanting to worry about messing something up and just buying a pre-built one. If I'm the "guy" you'd hope would sell them... ain't no way, I don't want the liability. 
