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Post by Deleted on Nov 13, 2018 17:14:35 GMT -7
Hey Exuptoy, thanks for replying. Just hung up with the dealer tech, and gave me the OK to erase the code, and see if it comes again. He wants me to keep my freaking bike until it's fixed, which could take weeks, and I told him it was unacceptable. He said it'd be fine if I take it home, but would have to take it again if they need it. I want to be able to determine what it is, which should be either the servo motor or the valve stuck IMO, but will read the service manual for troubleshooting (whatever I can do without the diagnostic tool to cycle the servo). If I can move the butterfly valve, I can pretty much isolate it to the servo motor, and the dealer can try to cycle it with their diagnostic machine that they still haven't received yet, to complete the troubleshooting. Unfortunately, they haven't received it yet, so no sense in taking the bike until they do. First, a favor: Can you please post a picture of your scanner, and the brand and model to order one just like it? I sese you fitted it behind the battery. That's exactly what I want. And smart man to carry one . Do you happen to have a printed page with all codes, so you can send me the file? With those little readers, we need the code description. Mine tells me, but it's a large unit. I had to put the bulky tire repair kit inside my tailbag, but would love to put it under the seat. I'll ask you a question about that below. And now some questions, if you don't mind : 1. Is your bike stock? I've read of people removing the EXUP, but only as part of a 3/4 exhaust install. But exactly that crossed my mind, since it'll be a hassle to get it fixed, but my bike is fully stock, and plan to keep it that way. And without the EXUP, it reportedly loses torque, no? 2. Do you plan to throw your EXUP servo motor away??? I'd gladly take it so I can fix my bike myself. Ha ha. Let me know, and I'd pay for the shipping. I might put a want-to ad if you want to hang on to yours. 3. How the heck do you manage to fit the tire repair kit under the seat? Mine has millimeters clearance, for what I can tell. But let me scrutinize your seat vs mine, and give it a shot. I got a second rubber band that thought was a spare for the battery. Is that the one you used? Don't remember seeing where to hook it up, but will check my seat shortly. 4. Out of curiosity, how extensive was your EXUP removal? Did you remove the cables too? And how about the butterfly, and the cap on top of the exhaust with 3 bolts? Thanks brother. EDIT: Just erased the code and freeze frame (which I couldn't see with a generic reader), which I only did because it wasn't an important code, and with the blessing of the dealer tech. Don't think the ECU cycles the EXUP valve at start-up. Didn't feel anything, and cycling it again didn't light up the CEL, which is good news, but my guess is the valve never opened before, so it might be stuck or something. If any of you have any input on how to test it, bring it on . Will search the service manual for answers now. Thx. EDIT 2: There're also other 2 EXUP codes: P048D for open or ground on position sensor, and P048E for a short circuit on position sensor. So at least we know it's not the position sensor, which I need to investigate where it is. Also want to investigate if the valve is normally closed, which I believe it has to be. Thx.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 13, 2018 21:00:59 GMT -7
Here my latest update. Disconnected the servo unit again, and the connector and terminals are perfect. Removed the rubber band securing the servo unit, and dislodged it. Removed the 2 screws to expose the cables, tried to move the cam, but zero movement, so tried to remove the torx screw holding the cam to the shaft, and was bending the darn shaft trying to break it loose, but no dice. Should be loctited, so gave up there. Wanted to open up the servo unit to see what I saw inside, but with the cam in place, can't do it. Oh well. Next step. Removed the 3 bolts from the exhaust pipe to expose the cables there, and there's a 10mm nut holding the other cam. Tried to remove the nut, but the freaking valve turned instead (Yeeey; not stuck... and didn't feel or sounded like it was stuck), and rather than trying to remove the nut after the cam hit the limit, since the butterfly didn't spring back to closed (which was surprising, since there's a spring in there), got an idea: Let's turn the ignition on, and since it's out of place, it should try to move back. Well, IT DID. Tried again, heard the whirring sound again, and valve closed again immediately. No sound of struggle, or anything. Everything seems to be working fine, so don't know what the heck triggered the CEL. ECU would have thrown a code already if it was the culprit. The only issue left is that the valve should be easier to turn. Can somebody here tell me how hard is to turn your butterfly by hand, and if it remains in position or springs back to closed? All you have to do is remove the THREE 5mm hex bolts from the exhaust cap and turn the valve counterclockwise with your fingers (no tools required). I can turn mine with strong finger force, and it stays in place. It doesn't return back. Just want to make sure the effort is normal. I could spray something like silicone spray if needed, but don't know if the extra heat there could break it down and cause more trouble. I want to do something to it, since something triggered the CEL to begin with. But everything seems to be working fine, since the valve closed upon ignition was turned on. The funny thing is I was just cruising at around 70 mph when the CEL was triggered, so there's no way the valve was working. Comments welcome. Thanks gang.
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exuptoy
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Post by exuptoy on Nov 14, 2018 4:03:16 GMT -7
Okay then, when I purchased the bike, the first thing I did was to fit the Scorpion can and ordered the decat. Once it arrived I just followed the video below and did the same. I was hoping to remove the servo complete with cables still attached but there are no adjusters at the servo end so I had to remove the cables from the valve end first that then allows the cable sleeves to be pulled from the servo to unhook the ends of the cables. I ran it like this for a week before my servo eliminator arrived. I then removed the rubber band and unplugged the loom to allow the servo eliminator to be plugged in. My scanner is the Autel Maxi Scan (which, along with the manual, you can find HERE in the states) but I lost my booklet a long time ago. I'd just google the codes as they are universal codes as all scanners will read the same code numbers. Regarding the space under the seat, where the rubber strap is located in line with the seat hooks which hold it down to the subframe which is pretty much above the servo. They sure designed the maximum use of space under there. On the subject of codes, I recently purchased an Audi TT 225 which had had a vermin infestation when the guy was incarcerated so I picked it up for a very good price as the wiring was chewed and the turbo no longer worked. The codes suggested various valves were open circuit or short to ground when in reality I found the fuse had popped bringing up 3 codes so don't necessarily assume the valve is shorted to earth. This may be just something simple as a comms error at some point and the fact it has remained clear could be good news. My bike had its 600 miles service yesterday and the mech informed me that there were 4 codes retained in the ecu which were not severe codes to flag the MIL but monitors. One of which was when the bike failed to start one morning it logged it but when I cycled the ignition and retried if fired right up. This was logged. Another was the use of the servo buddy but he confirmed this is not an issue. If you want to check the operation of the servo just disconnect the cables at the exhaust end and remove them from the servo, you can then start the bike and rev it with the seat removed and watch its operation. It doesn't just open and close, this thing actually opens to various degrees with higher revs. With the torque these things have, I don't think you'd even notice its interference. They install these things mainly for noise pollution at the lower rev range any minor HP variations are not going to be felt at your butt dyno On to your Q's: 1. Is your bike stock? I've read of people removing the EXUP, but only as part of a 3/4 exhaust install. But exactly that crossed my mind, since it'll be a hassle to get it fixed, but my bike is fully stock, and plan to keep it that way. And without the EXUP, it reportedly loses torque, no?
The bike is factory stock aside from the Leo Vince baffled decat and can and removal of the servo, it is not mapped. I have noticed no loss of torque to speak of and the sound is awesome and but still slightly quieter than the usual decat without the inline baffle. 2. Do you plan to throw your EXUP servo motor away??? I'd gladly take it so I can fix my bike myself. Ha ha. Let me know, and I'd pay for the shipping. I might put a want-to ad if you want to hang on to yours.
Sorry dude, I keep my cycle parts to revert back to standard when I sell my bikes to maximise my profits. 3. How the heck do you manage to fit the tire repair kit under the seat? Mine has millimeters clearance, for what I can tell. But let me scrutinize your seat vs mine, and give it a shot. I got a second rubber band that thought was a spare for the battery. Is that the one you used? Don't remember seeing where to hook it up, but will check my seat shortly.The seat has a hollow on the rear of the seat pan with 2 hooks to retain the rubber strap, this is where my tyre kit lives you can see the black vinyl pouch to the left of my piccy.4. Out of curiosity, how extensive was your EXUP removal? Did you remove the cables too? And how about the butterfly, and the cap on top of the exhaust with 3 bolts? Thanks brother.
Yep, cables were removed after the cat was dropped down and the servo left to do its thing until my servo eliminator arrived when I removed the servo to create extra space. The butterfly came out with the cat as part of the cat assembly. It is now living in the garage on the high shelf with the cables reattached in the event that the bike gets returned to standard to be sold at a later date and my servo inside my plastic box of bits removed. Although I won't be selling this for a long time. I love this thing. Hope this helps, sorry for the long post. Any more info required just shout out. Decat video was here.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2018 13:17:40 GMT -7
Yep, cables were removed after the cat was dropped down Thank you for your post, but neither you nor the video addressed my only question: How to remove the cables. Ha ha. Was the nut loctited in place? And did you turn the valve with the wrench until it hit the stop, and then apply the necessary force to break it loose? I don't need to remove it now, but I'm thinking if I want to remove it to lube it now that I have the cap off. It's reportedly dry from the factory, and if it's left like that, they tend to fail much sooner than if lubed. Again, this was reported on several forums, from MT09s, Fizzers, etc. They also recommend lubing it every 10K miles, so it lasts the life of the bike. Now to the possible culprit of my CEL. On several of those Yamaha forums it was widely reported of new bikes throwing what it's known as the '7K rpm EXUP CEL'. Turns out the EXUP valve is fully open at 7K rpm, and coincidentally, I momentarily ran my bike to 7K on that trip, and when I looked down, the CEL was on. As mentioned, I found a way to test the entire EXUP system by closing the valve by hand, then turning the ignition ON. It immediately opens with the proper whirring sound from the servo motor, and the CEL doesn't light up right away, so everything seems to be working normally. I'm going to do the full cable adjustment after finishing this post. Since I can move the valve by hand, and I can make it hit both stops, I'm almost sure the 'black' cable won't need adjustment, but still need to check that with the ignition on, the valve is touching the open stop by itself, and that the cable has 'no slack'; not a very accurate instruction, but the good news is the other (white) cable (the one pulling the valve open) needs to be adjusted to the same tension at the other, and right now it's very tight. So will reduce tension a little, to match the 'black', which seems fine when the valve rests in the fully open position. Hope that solves my issue. And it should, since A LOT of new bikes with the same issue as mine were too tight from the factory, meaning the servo is binding when things heat up and the slack is not the same. Or insufficient. If I get a CEL again, I'd probably take apart and lube the valve, and also reduce the tension a little more on both cables alike, since the works 'no slack' is very vague, since you can have no slack but very tight, or no slack but with considerable deflection when touched. I like the way the 'black' is right now, so hopefully matching the other obviously very tight cable to it, will solve the problem. The good news is this now seems to be an ADJUSTMENT issue, not a part failure issue. But the service manual doesn't even mention this as a possible CEL issue, which is crazy. I'm right at 400 miles, so won't be venturing to the 7K rpm much until 600 miles, but will do it quickly again the next time I use it to see what happens. Will keep you posted, but at least you guys now know this is possible on your bike too, but not a big deal .
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exuptoy
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Post by exuptoy on Nov 14, 2018 14:00:57 GMT -7
I know when I had my 98 R1 that had the 7k fault on start up as the needle used to sweep to 7k on startup. Turned out that even though the servo was free to turn, the bracket which attached it to the exhaust had rusted through.
Glad yours is an easy fix.
The other video worth a watch is Ritchies below. He shows the cable removal at around 4:46.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 15, 2018 10:47:47 GMT -7
Thanks buddy, but once again, not what I wanted. Ha ha. The cables are super easy to remove (as shown), but you mess up the adjustment. I want info on removal of the 10mm nut on top of the cam/pulley for 2 reasons: Adjustment is not touched (you just pull up the cam, and remove cables if needed). And to be able to remove the valve, to lube it. Oh well. I don't see any notch on the mechanism like on other bikes to hold it in place, so the only way seems to be against the stop, and just go at it, but would still like to know if it's loctited in place. I guess a video on how to lube the valve (which I couldn't find) would finally show how to remove that pesky nut. Ha ha.
Anyway, did the EXUP cable adjustment yesterday, and as expected, the black cable was fine, but the 'metal' one was too tight, but after 2 to 3 clockwise turns, left it with the same tension as the other, so hope that was the end of my EXUP troubles. We'll find out soon enough. He he. Will momentarily rev it past 7K on my next ride, hopefully today, and will report back. Have exactly 397 miles on the clock now. Have a great day.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2018 23:28:29 GMT -7
Good news. Took bike for a ride today, quickly revved it past 7K on a couple of shifts, and no CEL. Looks like the small adjustment I made to one of the EXUP cables was enough to prevent any binding, and no more CEL. If it ever comes back when it gets hot again, I'd reduce the tension on both cables a hair more and that should permanently do it. I'm also going to lube the valve every 5K miles, but not going to do it now. Hope this helps future members that also get this CEL early in the bike's life. Hope everybody had a great weekend.
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exuptoy
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Post by exuptoy on Nov 19, 2018 9:26:02 GMT -7
Nice one. Sorted.
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