This is a pretty easy how-to, but didn't see any other guides so I figured I'd post one...
Typical disclaimer stuff... Do this at your own risk; I'm not an expert but this is what I did and the signals work* so if you follow these steps and things blow up, short out, or otherwise go bad. That sucks, I'm sorry, but it's not my fault.
*-minus my own stupidity causing a CEL, more on that later
Tools/Supplies: 5mm Allen socket, key, etc... 4mm Allen socket, key, etc... 7mm socket or wrench Small flathead screwdriver (optional) Needle-nose vice grips (optional) Wire cutter/stripper/crimper Heat shrink Heat gun, torch, lighter, etc... (a heat source of some kind) Electrical tape or other form of cable sleeving Dialectic grease (recommended, optional) Soldering iron (recommended, optional) or... Some other form of electrical connectors - butt connector, spade, bullet, etc...
The steps will mainly go over installing the signal on the left side of the bike, the right side is the almost identical, there's a couple of notable differences I'll cover.
Here's a photo of what comes in the box:
The instructions are okay but don't quite match the FZ10. The kit includes small electrical ferrules and small pieces of heat shrink so some of the supplies listed above aren't necessarily required, just a matter of what you are comfortable using.
1) The first big step is to remove the faux side scoop. There are 2 plastic push fasteners/pop rivets on the inside of the scoop. I used a small flathead screwdriver to push in the pin and then pry out the fastener. The top one is easy to get to and remove. The bottom one (for me anyway) is a massive PITA to get to and remove (and a bigger PITA to reinstall, for me anyway). Once they're removed, remove the front housing of the scoop by pulling towards the front of the bike. (Sorry, no pic of the housing being removed)
2) Remove the 2 bolts at the rear of the side scoop (4mm allen).
3) This is the step where you'd remove the scoop. I know this can be done without pulling the side gas tank cover away from the tank, but I couldn't do it without feeling like I was going to break something on the scoop. If you are comfortable with removing the side scoop without popping the side tank cover off then just start on step 6.
To pop the side tank cover off the tank, you'll need to remove the small panel which bridges the 2 side covers on the gas tank. There are 2 plastic fasteners; again, I used a small flathead screwdriver to push in the center pin and then pry out the fastener (first pic). With both fasteners removed pull up on the panel to remove it (second pic).
4) Remove the bolt under the panel (5mm allen). At this point, you can pop the side tank cover away from the tank. Grip the cover by the top and firmly pull straight to side, away from the tank. There are a couple of fasteners holding it in place. It'll be entirely obvious once you successfully popped the cover away from the tank. It will not come completely off so do not keep pulling on it. The point is to expose the back side of the scoop where you can reach the tabs holding the scoop on in order to release them and remove the scoop.
5) With the side cover pulled away from the tank, you can see the tabs holding the scoop in place. I pointed out 3 of them in the photo below, there are (I think) 2 more towards the back of the scoop. Work the tabs loose and then remove the side scoop completely from the tank cover.
6) With the scoop removed, disconnect the plug. The wire harness running to the signal itself is held in place in 2 separate spots. The arrows in the photo below show which plug and the 2 connection points for the harness. I found it easiest to pop out the brackets from the bike by using a small pair of vice grips to gently remove them.
7) Remove the 2 bolts (5mm allen) and remove the side radiator cover/turn signal.
8) Pop out the retaining clip from the back of the signal. I then used the small vice grips again to push together the tabs holding the turn signal in the side radiator cover and then removed the turn signal.
9) Time to do some permanent damage... pull back some of the sheath covering the wiring at the end nearest to the turn signal. Cut the wires. You should have 3 wires - black, brown, blue w/red stripe. Don't forget to remove the retaining clip. (I did forget )
10) On the left side signal, I did not cut down the wiring on either the plug or the Watsen signal. This left me with an excess of wire which didn't quite fit right on the bike and I had to deal with (shown in later step). Before connecting the wires together, I recommend trying to test fit to a degree to determine how much wire you can trim down. You don't have to; you can always deal with the excess as opposed to risk trimming off too much and the plug doesn't reach. Use your best judgement.
Use the wire strippers to remove the sheath around the black and brown wires; I stripped off about a 1/4" or so. The blue w/red stripe is the wire for running lights; you can't use the Watsens as running lights so this wire can just be sealed off. Slide on the heat shrink on both wires before connecting the signal with the bike-side plug. If it isn't already, strip off about the same amount sheath from the Watsen signal. This where I did a little bit of overkill again and also decided to use the ferrules. I slid one ferrule over each of the wires on the Watsen signal. I then soldered the wires together (here's a good YouTube vid for soldering), then slid the ferrule over the connection and crimped it all down.
The wires are connected in the following manner:
Yamaha -----> Watsen Brown ----> White Black ----> Gray
After connecting the wires, I slid the heat shrink over the connection and used a hot air gun to seal the connection in the heat shrink. I also put a piece of heat shrink over the end of the blue w/red stripe wire and heated it up to seal the end of the wire.
(Notice I forgot to remove the retaining clip... used the wire cutters to carefully cut it off after I already soldered the wires together)
11) I wished I would have waited and picked up some prettier, high-temp, mesh wire looms to wrap wiring in and give a much more OEM look to the exposed wire on the Watsen signal. But I didn't... so I ended up wrapping the the wire in some electrical tape overlapping the sheath protecting the bike-side wires to provide a little more insulation and protection from the elements. (Sorry, no pics of this step; use your imagination )
12) If you're worrisome about the quality of your work, plug the signal back into the bike-side connector, flip on the key and test the signal to make sure it works. Assuming it does, disconnect the signal and proceed...
13) Feed the signal through the radiator cover. On the back of the Watsen signal, use a 7mm socket/wrench to loosen the nut holding the retention bracket in place. Position the signal in the radiator cover to your preference, rotate the retention bracket to make sure it's securely in place and then tighten the 7mm nut. The radiator cover is kinda flimsy so no need to crank it down really tight. The photo below shows the back of the signal, I forgot to snap a photo of the signal after I installed it in the radiator cover.
14) Reverse the steps to connect the signal and reinstall the radiator cover. I recommend putting a little bit of dialectic grease on the pins of the plug before plugging the signal back in for good.
Here is a photo showing the excess wiring I had on the left side signal. I could not figure a way to cleanly keep the excess tucked up behind the radiator cover so I ended up zip-tying it to the radiator fan shroud. This will at least prevent it from ever accidentally getting hit by the radiator fan. Not my preferred method but it works. If you have a better idea, please share it.
****Unique steps for the right-side signal****
To remove to right-side radiator cover, instead of just the 2 bolts (5mm allen) you'll also need to remove one push fastener (top) and 2 other screws (4mm allen) at the front.
Also, to make removal of the turn signal wiring harness from the bike easier, I ended up unplugging the Intake Air Temp sensor. DO NOT turn on your bike (if you're testing the signal) without plugging this sensor back in. You'll trigger a CEL. Ask me how I know... (you can see it dangling in the above pic too)
Now go and enjoy the sexier, sleeker looking bike!!
stealthunion: I am interested in the OEM bar if you still have them. How much shipped to Seattle, WA? Thanks!
Feb 9, 2019 13:01:12 GMT -7
tupphead: Jesus I'll get it right eventually BSD Performance
Jan 18, 2019 11:14:35 GMT -7
tupphead: I meant BAD Performance in Peterborough which is closer forme
Jan 18, 2019 11:10:49 GMT -7
tupphead: Thanks for the link exuptoy It's a good vid, but Bristol is a bit of a treck for me.
Jan 18, 2019 11:07:49 GMT -7
joeysako: Hey guys! I bought my '17 FZ-10 a little over a week ago. Brand new with "0" miles. I am coming from an 09 R1 and I still ride an 07 Warrior. I do love my Yamahas First upgrade will be a 2wheeldyno ECU flash and not sure which pipe....
Jan 17, 2019 5:11:51 GMT -7
miel12: Hello guys gonna get the mt10 soon . Just dropped by to say hello and join the community
Dec 9, 2018 14:04:22 GMT -7
isaac: New member, new listing... PM or view my latest post in the sale thread for details
Nov 24, 2018 20:22:57 GMT -7
exuptoy: 600 mile service now done woohoo
Nov 14, 2018 6:27:13 GMT -7
squid4life: Dammit....just the story of my life....always Late..
Nov 9, 2018 15:59:57 GMT -7
squid4life: Do you still have the bottom piece(the one that covers the key hole)? Also i will like the plate light...if so lmk..
Nov 9, 2018 15:57:25 GMT -7
squid4life: Are you still selling the bike?
Nov 3, 2018 3:06:18 GMT -7
dharma54: Greetings to all, hope everyone is healthy and happy !
Nov 2, 2018 13:00:59 GMT -7
exuptoy: Hi guys, newbie here from the uk. Just felt I had to register as I have today fitted the Leo to my 2018 10. Awesome sound on it but still a little loud with my Scorpion RP1-GP. Hope you guys like it.
Oct 29, 2018 12:27:57 GMT -7