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Post by sdshawn on Jul 30, 2021 18:34:17 GMT -7
I like the Allen bolt for the plug it's clean and in most cases you probably will not over torque them . Being that the oil pan is aluminum might not beva bad thing , although I use a torque wrench on pretty much every bolt to spec on the bike just so when at speed I don't have that thought in back of my mind did I do it right.
So as far as a magnet unless I can get an allen made with it I'll just rely on the filter magnet and or just put a high power one on the allen bolt on the out side of course.
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mt10atl
New Member
Posts: 3
Registered: Jun 2, 2021 15:30:01 GMT -7
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Post by mt10atl on Aug 3, 2021 10:25:31 GMT -7
I want to make sure I start off right.
The bike has 750 miles on it. I had the first 600 service on it.
I read that they don't put synthetic until the bike is at the first 4K mile maintenance point.
but then I read there is a 600 mile break in, and then 1000 mile checkup (may be some yamaha recommendation), then 4K and every 4K after that for periodic oil change.
I have an MT 10. I do casual street riding no track.
My question is I was going to do the oil change myself from now on, should I be using synthetic now (around 1K) or just wait until 4K to change filter and oil? I read pistons sit better with conventional oil and synthetic is good but I just want this to be top notch.
All my vehicles use synthetic also so I want to keep on top of this. I am probably over thinking and a tad paranoid, it's my first new bike.. don't want problems later.
thanks for any tips or advice.
[Moderator Edit: Merged Post - Same content/common question and answers]
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angrypenguin
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Registered: Jul 3, 2021 8:48:56 GMT -7
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Post by angrypenguin on Aug 3, 2021 10:35:31 GMT -7
I did my first change at 500 miles myself and went straight to full synthetic. Modern engines are made with such good tolerances you are good to go.
[Moderator Edit: Merged Post - Same content/common question and answers]
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Post by RedAndBlack on Aug 3, 2021 20:38:28 GMT -7
Use synthetic. As per the owner's manual and manufacturer recommendation, it calls for synthetic and comes with synthetic oil. There is a school of thought about using a non-synthetic oil until a little bit later in the bike but for my understanding, this is for bikes that do not call for synthetic oil. Our bike calls for synthetic oil from the factory. Therefore you should continue to use synthetic oil?
Will you blow your motor up using non-synthetic oil? No. Especially if you do a 4K mile change. But my take is that there are people at these manufacturers that get paid a lot more money to figure this shit out for us, and if they say use synthetic from the get-go, I use synthetic.
I have not found a convincing argument to change the oil at 1000 miles. I would recommend stick with the owner's manual and change at 4K or whenever the next service is. If you're taking it to a dealer and paying them for a "1000 mile check", I would recommend against it. It's usually just a visual check. Literally you can do the same. Walk around the bike and look for loose bolts. You can double check things like chain slack, cable tightness, etc by just reading your owner's manual on how to check/make these adjustments. I always seem to find a few loose bolts at the 600 mile service. But these dealer techs, especially when you're not watching them do it, don't go crazy checking over your bike. You can do a much better and thorough job with some basic tools and some time and patience.
[Moderator Edit: Merged Post - Same content/common question and answers]
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terrys
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Posts: 104
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Registered: Mar 1, 2021 0:48:28 GMT -7
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Post by terrys on Aug 3, 2021 21:34:26 GMT -7
This is from the Internet so it must be true.
[Moderator Edit: Merged Post - Same content/common question and answers]
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slipwrist
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Posts: 60
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Registered: Aug 23, 2022 15:03:56 GMT -7
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Post by slipwrist on Nov 14, 2022 15:13:43 GMT -7
I have a '18 and it does specifically say to use full synthetic. I also have a '21 mt09 but manual doesn't specify only full synthetic as I recall. Even though I'm an older guy, I also have a tendency to ride my bikes hard. It's pricey but you absolutely can't go wrong with yamalube full synthetic (gold). Oil is so critical to the life of a high performance engine. I rarely go past 2k before changing my oil. As to 10w/40 or 15w/50, I would only use 15w/50 if I lived in an extremely hot climate. I live in the Northwest so I just keep 10w/40 all year.
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Post by parthz8 on Nov 15, 2022 11:28:46 GMT -7
I have a '18 and it does specifically say to use full synthetic. I also have a '21 mt09 but manual doesn't specify only full synthetic as I recall. Even though I'm an older guy, I also have a tendency to ride my bikes hard. It's pricey but you absolutely can't go wrong with yamalube full synthetic (gold). Oil is so critical to the life of a high performance engine. I rarely go past 2k before changing my oil. As to 10w/40 or 15w/50, I would only use 15w/50 if I lived in an extremely hot climate. I live in the Northwest so I just keep 10w/40 all year. Agree! i live in place with extremely hot climate, ride hard most of the time and only use Yamalube Full Synthetic 15W-50 or Shell Advance 15W-50 (If Yamalube is out of stock) on both all my bikes R1M & MT10s.
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Deleted
Posts: 0
Registered: Apr 26, 2024 11:17:04 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Nov 16, 2022 7:06:31 GMT -7
Live in Texas do about 5 track days a year.
Been using Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10w/40 since the very first oil change.
I usually only change oil 1 time, maybe 2 times, per year.
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Post by mt10orc on Nov 16, 2022 16:47:51 GMT -7
Yamalube full synthetic on both R1M and MT10.
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slipwrist
Junior Member
Posts: 60
Likes: 16
Registered: Aug 23, 2022 15:03:56 GMT -7
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Post by slipwrist on Mar 5, 2023 19:18:57 GMT -7
Live in Texas do about 5 track days a year. Been using Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10w/40 since the very first oil change. I usually only change oil 1 time, maybe 2 times, per year. Can't go wrong with Mobile1 either
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maxxj
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Registered: Jul 7, 2022 7:44:49 GMT -7
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Post by maxxj on Mar 6, 2023 14:56:27 GMT -7
Been using Rotella T6 15-40 in everything, forever. What brand/type you use isn't anywhere near as important as how often you change it. Get whatever brand stuff your warranty requires to satisfy it but after the first few it doesn't matter anymore.
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fadkar
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Registered: Sept 27, 2021 12:16:46 GMT -7
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Post by fadkar on Apr 9, 2024 8:57:23 GMT -7
I'm looking at the 2022 MT10 owners manual, and it only says that full synthetic is "recommended," not required. Would Yamaha deny a warranty if one used conventional Yamalube to facilitate the break in process?
I plan on removing the factory oil at 20 miles to remove the bulk of the metal shavings, then another at 500 miles before switching to full synthetic at 1500 miles.
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treedogg
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Posts: 35
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Registered: Nov 6, 2021 12:16:19 GMT -7
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Post by treedogg on Apr 9, 2024 10:36:10 GMT -7
I'm looking at the 2022 MT10 owners manual, and it only says that full synthetic is "recommended," not required. Would Yamaha deny a warranty if one used conventional Yamalube to facilitate the break in process? I plan on removing the factory oil at 20 miles to remove the bulk of the metal shavings, then another at 500 miles before switching to full synthetic at 1500 miles. Thats basically what I did... In my opinion it's good idea to break-in that way, some people say its not necessary and I can agree with that as well. Its a, do what you feel like you want to do with your machine, type of situation. That being said, it's not going to cause a problem regardless, and if there were a problem at some point, I really don't think they would be able to say; yup since you did extra changes with dino oil, you caused the problem and we can't honor your warranty, sorry. I'd say go for it and do what you want. Any other opinions or stories on this?
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Post by willl84 on Apr 10, 2024 5:11:00 GMT -7
They can't deny your warranty unless they can prove it was the oil that caused a failure. Look up the Magnuson-Moss Act. I was using Yamalube at first due to their 20,000 mile warranty if you used it but then I looked at the terms and there was so much red tape I stopped bothering. I went to AmsOil Metric full synthetic that I've always used in my bikes. The bottom line is as long as the oil at MINIMUM meets the specifications in the manual just run whatever you want.
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fadkar
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Registered: Sept 27, 2021 12:16:46 GMT -7
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Post by fadkar on Apr 12, 2024 9:46:35 GMT -7
They can't deny your warranty unless they can prove it was the oil that caused a failure. Look up the Magnuson-Moss Act. I was using Yamalube at first due to their 20,000 mile warranty if you used it but then I looked at the terms and there was so much red tape I stopped bothering. I went to AmsOil Metric full synthetic that I've always used in my bikes. The bottom line is as long as the oil at MINIMUM meets the specifications in the manual just run whatever you want. I like the idea of the Magnuson-Moss Act but I have doubts over its real world benefit. In reality, manufacturers get away with denying warranties knowing very well that an average Joe doesn't have the time or money to take them to court.
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Post by mindcrime79 on Apr 13, 2024 9:23:05 GMT -7
While that Act is true dealers and manufacturers have more money to fight you with legally. Chevy has done this to me. Was easier just to sell it than fight them. Never had luck or saw the real world value in Magnus.
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