donttell
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Registered: May 11, 2018 10:12:26 GMT -7
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Post by donttell on May 11, 2018 10:15:43 GMT -7
I’m getting my first service and was asked what type of oil I want to put in the bike. I told him whatever came in it but he easy saying Yamaha-Lube comes in standard, semi synthetic, or full synthetic. I went with standard this time around. What should I go with next time?
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Post by evitzee on May 11, 2018 10:37:24 GMT -7
H'mmm, your dealer should know better. The requirement for the FZ-10 engine is FULL SYNTHETIC (10W-40 or 15W-50), it's right in the Owner's Manual and the Service Manual. I would not be happy with such a clueless dealer, and I wouldn't be satisified with regular dino oil, especially with summer coming with high temps and humidity (in the Northern Hemisphere). Changing the oil and filter is one of the easiest things to do on a motorcycle, it lets you get down there and inspect things at the same time, plus you know it is done right with the right oil and the right amount.
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Post by RedAndBlack on May 11, 2018 10:37:59 GMT -7
EDIT: Based on what Evitzee said above (we posted at about the same time) if the manual calls for full synthetic, go with full synthetic.
EDIT 2: These are the recommendations for our bike: Type: Full Synthetic SAE Viscosity grades: 10W-40, 15W-50 API Service: SG Type or Higher JASO Standard: MA 3.9 liters required for oil change 4.1 for oil change including filter removal.
Generally speaking, semi-synthetics and synthetics usually have a much better performance over conventional oil. Where it gets a little less noticeable is that jump between semi synthetic and fully synthetic.
I personally run full synthetic. Usually Mobil 4T. But I run all my bikes extremely aggressive. I do not commute, I do ONLY canyon carving and track days, sometimes in desert temperatures over 105 degrees, which is where full synthetics seem to shine, high heat. It isn't much more expensive then the other oils and there's usually a mail in rebate to offset the cost. I also do my own oil changes so I save money there.
I've also heard of people recommending you don't go with full synthetic first time around. Something about engine break-in. I can't remember. But normally when you start going to full synthetic or semi synthetic, it's advised not to go back to conventional oil.
It's completely up to you. There's plenty of articles out there that will give you a little more in depth then I can, but from reading them years ago, definitely go with at least a semi-synthetic. There's a definite improvement over conventional oil. Semi synthetic vs full synthetic is more of a cost/benefit ratio thing. Is the extra cost worth the little improvement? Might depend more on what you do with the bike. Commuting? Probably not worth the extra cost. Redlining at the track in the desert, worth the extra cost.
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donttell
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Post by donttell on May 11, 2018 11:25:07 GMT -7
Wow, how awkward. This was my first service and I don’t have the manual in front of me. I told him to put was was in the bike. So I’m at a crappy dealer? It shouldn’t hurt for now right? I’ll go ahead and change it at 1,000 and do full synthetic if that’s what it calls for.
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Post by evitzee on May 11, 2018 11:34:26 GMT -7
Wow, how awkward. This was my first service and I don’t have the manual in front of me. I told him to put was was in the bike. So I’m at a crappy dealer? It shouldn’t hurt for now right? I’ll go ahead and change it at 1,000 and do full synthetic if that’s what it calls for. At least now you know. I try to do as much work on my bike myself, especially things like checking fluid levels and changing oil. Your standard oil won't kill your engine but you are probably wise to change it sooner rather than later. I'm assuming they changed your filter at the first service so there isn't any need to change it when you switch over to the full synthetic. Many people like the Shell Rotella T6 which is a full synthetic and available at Walmart for about $22 for 4 quart jug, other full synthetics are a bit higher in price. Right now I'm using Yamalube 15W-50 full synthetic. As long as it is full synthetic in the recommended grade and marked JASO MA (for wet clutch motorcycle engines/transmissions) you are good to go.
And welcome aboard.
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donttell
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Post by donttell on May 11, 2018 11:42:12 GMT -7
Your telling me 10-50 but the manual says to put 10-40? I barley know how to use my turn signals let alone working on my bike. 🙃 I just got off the phone with Yamaha, they said 10W-40 or 15W-50 full synthetic is recommended.
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Post by evitzee on May 11, 2018 13:16:02 GMT -7
Either 15W-50 or 10W-40 is fine according to the manual. What Yamaha told you is correct.
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Post by RedAndBlack on May 11, 2018 13:28:00 GMT -7
Wow, how awkward. This was my first service and I don’t have the manual in front of me. I told him to put was was in the bike. So I’m at a crappy dealer? It shouldn’t hurt for now right? I’ll go ahead and change it at 1,000 and do full synthetic if that’s what it calls for. I mean he should've known better. Dealers usually aren't the best. Its largely just push through as many bikes as we can. Where as a mechanic running his own shop has his clients based largely on his reputation. A good mechanic is hard to find, but almost unheard of at a dealer. Haha
Not to mention you paid probably over $100 to do oil. If they did a "service" probably charged you anywhere between $200-$500.
The oil changes on these bikes are SO EASY because of the exposed filter. You have a steeper upfront cost when you have to buy the tools and drain pan and all, but you will save so much money in the long run doing your own oil changes.
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donttell
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Post by donttell on May 11, 2018 19:00:07 GMT -7
How do you pick between the two? Also I called the dealer out and said he would re drain and put the right oil in there. I got 10W-40 full synthetic put in today. He said the manual only recommends full and I could put whatever I want in. 🙄 I might have to look into learning how to do myself. This is the nicest thing I have ever owned so I want to make sure it’s well taken care of.
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ikranmakto
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Post by ikranmakto on May 12, 2018 20:55:22 GMT -7
You have just opened a Pandoras Box with a thread on oils donttellMost motorcycle riders have their favourite oil. I think for FZ/MT10 owners the number one rule everyone will agree on is Full Synthetic. 10w-40 or 15w-50 is subjective, they each react slightly differently to inherent weather conditions and temperatures, both are fine. I live in Sydney, temperatures vary from fairly mild winters to stinking hot summers, my oil of choice is Motul 300v 10w-40 full synthetic. Don't stress, changing your own oil filter and oil is not rocket science, it's something i'd recommend you do every every 4,000 miles or roughly 6,000k's 👍
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kingcrimson
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Post by kingcrimson on May 13, 2018 1:08:01 GMT -7
I’m getting my first service and was asked what type of oil I want to put in the bike. I told him whatever came in it but he easy saying Yamaha-Lube comes in standard, semi synthetic, or full synthetic. I went with standard this time around. What should I go with next time? Nothing but the very best (sorry people, no Yamalube in this man's hanger, Motul is vastly superior). Think about it; it's one of the most important components to put in your FZ-10. It lubricates the engine, the clutch and the transmission - change it every 4000mi along with the oil filter. If it's good enough for Mr. V. Rossi, then EOS . . .
The ultimate in high performance - Motul 300V Factory Line Road Racing 10W40 ESTER Core 4T 100% Full Synthetic Racing Motor Oil.
www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/300v-factory-line-road-racing-10w40
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Post by evitzee on May 13, 2018 6:00:12 GMT -7
^^^ Uh oh, we are now in an official, dreaded oil thread where every one gets to state which oil is the best. If Motul makes you feel like Vale 46, the advertising worked. There are a lot of good oils, Motul among them.
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doctorzoidberg
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Post by doctorzoidberg on May 13, 2018 7:00:36 GMT -7
I’m getting my first service and was asked what type of oil I want to put in the bike. I told him whatever came in it but he easy saying Yamaha-Lube comes in standard, semi synthetic, or full synthetic. I went with standard this time around. What should I go with next time? I did my first oil change at about 60 km on the odometer after a hard break-in, and used good-'ol Yamalube Dino-oil (non-synthetic) 10W-40. Every oil change after that, I use Motul 300V full-synthetic 10W-40. Full synthetic is the way to go with this engine, in my opinion.
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kingcrimson
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Post by kingcrimson on May 13, 2018 9:35:57 GMT -7
I’m getting my first service and was asked what type of oil I want to put in the bike. I told him whatever came in it but he easy saying Yamaha-Lube comes in standard, semi synthetic, or full synthetic. I went with standard this time around. What should I go with next time? I did my first oil change at about 60 km on the odometer after a hard break-in, and used good-'ol Yamalube Dino-oil (non-synthetic) 10W-40. Every oil change after that, I use Motul 300V full-synthetic 10W-40. Full synthetic is the way to go with this engine, in my opinion.
Tell that to me fantasy princess . . .
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Post by achrista on May 14, 2018 19:48:07 GMT -7
^^^ Uh oh, we are now in an official, dreaded oil thread where every one gets to state which oil is the best. If Motul makes you feel like Vale 46, the advertising worked. There are a lot of good oils, Motul among them. I have waited so long for this thread. If you don't use amsoil there's a 75% chance your engine will explode by 20k miles, and amsoil reduces the Yamaha CCT tick.
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kingcrimson
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Post by kingcrimson on May 14, 2018 23:03:45 GMT -7
^^^ Uh oh, we are now in an official, dreaded oil thread where every one gets to state which oil is the best. If Motul makes you feel like Vale 46, the advertising worked. There are a lot of good oils, Motul among them. ^^^^^^ Just like Mr. Cosby stated . . . the proof's in the pudding!
bikereview.com.au/news/motul-300v-engine-oil-designed-racing/ www.asbk.com.au/news/link-international-desmosport-ducati-talk-motul/ roofofafrica.info/2017/11/09/motul-history-motorsport/
"As competition, expectations and technical constraints reach extraordinary levels in the MotoGP World Championship, Motul has strengthened its involvement there. The company has already been attending the Championship for many years partnering with Yamaha and team Tech3 as well as Suzuki and Aprilia factory racing teams.
In this sphere of upscale technology, Motul holds a strategic place as it supports leading teams and is also represented around most racetracks. For many years now, Motul and Yamaha have been working together with conscientiousness, passion and enthusiasm.
Team Tech3, Suzuki, and Aprilia, backed by Motul’s R&D department’s expertise, benefits from the latest technology when it comes to engine lubricants. MotoGP is not only high-end competition, but also a fantastic laboratory allowing Motul to constantly experiment and improve, to deliver the best products to its consumers. The MotoGP lubricants supplied by Motul are experimental ones, the 300V range is inspired from them using the ESTER Core technology
This technology provides outstanding extreme pressure properties, reduced internal friction, high temperature resistance and maintenance of oil pressure, and optimized polarity for maximal adherence of the oil film.
Motul is supporting those teams in international competitions such as: 24 Hours of Le Mans (cars and motorcycles), FIA World Endurance Championship, Super GT, ERC, Drift, Pikes Peak, Japanese championship SUPER FORMULA, Blancpain Endurance Series, GT Asia, Asian and European Le Mans Series, MotoGP, World Superbike, World MX, Endurance World Championship, Supercross, IOM TT, Motul FIM Ice Speedway Gladiators World Championship, Rallycross, F1 Boat, Roof of Africa and many others."
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donttell
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Post by donttell on May 15, 2018 1:23:03 GMT -7
Looks like my best bet is Motul 10W-40 then. Anything to help with the tick! OMG 🤞🏻
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Post by achrista on May 15, 2018 7:33:08 GMT -7
Looks like my best bet is Motul 10W-40 then. Anything to help with the tick! OMG 🤞🏻 The yam CCTs tick. They ticked on my R6, and they'll tick on my MT-10. It's just a yamaha thing. People run any jaso certified full synthetic (e.g. rotella t6) and do just fine. Don't bet on oil reducing the tick.
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Post by RedAndBlack on May 15, 2018 8:49:19 GMT -7
Looks like my best bet is Motul 10W-40 then. Anything to help with the tick! OMG 🤞🏻 The yam CCTs tick. They ticked on my R6, and they'll tick on my MT-10. It's just a yamaha thing. People run any jaso certified full synthetic (e.g. rotella t6) and do just fine. Don't bet on oil reducing the tick. It's a sportbike thing. I've yet to have a sportbike that didn't do it. It's just where we are at with the current technology of Auto cam tensioners. Yet everybody freaks out about it on every single forum I've ever been on.
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kingcrimson
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Post by kingcrimson on May 15, 2018 9:30:33 GMT -7
Looks like my best bet is Motul 10W-40 then. Anything to help with the tick! OMG 🤞🏻 Chevron 91 octane gasoline with Techtron.
What is Techtron? -> en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Techron
Then: "Motul 300V Factory Line Road Racing 10W40 ESTER Core 4T 100% Full Synthetic Racing Motor Oil."
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