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Post by Cruizin on Aug 25, 2016 23:55:09 GMT -7
Ok, for those of us waiting on all dark FZ-10, if anyone has their forks open please share weight, springs and discoveries here. Youll be surprised how many FZ-10 owners you'll be helping over the years as this thread grows.
@stoltec
@pattonme
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Post by deftone on Aug 29, 2016 4:52:11 GMT -7
I asked suspension guy Dave Moss what he thought of the FZ-10 forks and shock and he said he thought they were fantastic. Possibly a Re-valve and you're good to go. Dave knows his stuff, he sets up most of the race bikes in the California Bay area and he's an accomplished racer himself. feelthetrack.com/
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warnock
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Post by warnock on Aug 29, 2016 17:48:32 GMT -7
I'm new to pretty much adjusting the suspension I have never done it. I'm 6'4 200lbs. If I were to adjust the suspension would it ride smoother over bumps?
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Post by Cruizin on Aug 29, 2016 18:04:53 GMT -7
I'm new to pretty much adjusting the suspension I have never done it. I'm 6'4 200lbs. If I were to adjust the suspension would it ride smoother over bumps? Depends on your weight. If you are 5-10 or shorter, under 190 lbs the stock suspension should be good out of the box, just needs to be dialed in. If over 190 lbs then you should get springs set for your weight and possibly even a revalve, and stronger spring on the back. The difference for heavier riders is like night and day, once dialed in. Bumps better, yes, but corners and everything about the bike is better when the suspension is dialed in for the riders height, weight and riding style.
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warnock
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Post by warnock on Aug 30, 2016 18:12:20 GMT -7
I'm new to pretty much adjusting the suspension I have never done it. I'm 6'4 200lbs. If I were to adjust the suspension would it ride smoother over bumps? Depends on your weight. If you are 5-10 or shorter, under 190 lbs the stock suspension should be good out of the box, just needs to be dialed in. If over 190 lbs then you should get springs set for your weight and possibly even a revalve, and stronger spring on the back. The difference for heavier riders is like night and day, once dialed in. Bumps better, yes, but corners and everything about the bike is better when the suspension is dialed in for the riders height, weight and riding style. Thats interesting, do you have any recommended settings for me?
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Post by Cruizin on Aug 31, 2016 8:51:20 GMT -7
I do not. Everyone's settings are way different, different eights and riding styles for ea.
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Post by stoltecmoto on Aug 31, 2016 20:16:20 GMT -7
It's true that the fork springs aren't too far off for the average sized rider (about 200 lbs in gear). Out back is another matter, entirely. The shock spring is a 475 lb/in rate and is the same as the R1. For the unaware, the current R1 is pretty undersprung and requires a heavier spring a better valving for any sporting usage. The extra heft of the FZ-10 only exacerbates the issue, so plan on bottoming out the shock on nearly every ride. Here is an exerpt of what we found on the shock a few weeks ago: The jury has deliberated and the verdict is in on the shock. Meh. In fairness, it's leaps and bounds beyond that of the 'lesser' FZ's. By a long shot. But that shouldn't be a surprise to anyone who hasn't been living under a rock for the past three years. First, the shock is identical externally to the R1 with one exception: The R1 has ride height adjustment while the FZ-10 does not. Despite what we've read in the press, the FZ-10 shock has the same spring according to our measurements. Both bikes use a spring that spec'd out at ~475-480 lb/in. Makes you wonder what they were thinking since the FZ has a heavier steel subframe, factory option luggage, and a greater probability of a pillion rider. Really - have you seen the R1's seat? I'd rather walk. Our prototype shock is being built next week, and we'll start testing with a 550 lb/in spring rate for a 195 lb geared rider. Pro racers typically run 600-650 depending on the circuit and track conditions, so that should give you some perspective on how poorly sprung the bike is. So I'll reiterate: if you weigh more than about 150 lbs in gear, the stock spring is too soft. And really, that weight is being generous. The pain you're feeling on large bumps is the bike plowing into the bump stop as it bottoms out. A heavier spring will fix this issue. The damping is another matter altogether. Penske ran the shock on the dyno yesterday for us. The results are interesting. Well, maybe not since the performance is identical to the R1. But either way, there are some points that are worth mentioning. We've found a lot of people 'feel' something makes a difference, but the data doesn't always support it. The placebo effect is real. Let this be our guide. www.stoltecmoto.com/images/FZ-10/Shock/20160802_211144.jpgThere's a lot of stuff to make you cross-eyed here, so bear with me. I've left the image at full resolution and quality, so feel free to click on the image to zoom in. [*]The range of adjustment is shown in the top/center. This highlights the range of adjustment you get and full open, full hard, and mid point on compression and rebound. [*]The graph immediate to the left (still on top) is our spec for the FZ-09. This shock dyno curve was chosen to highlight a known 'good'. Plus, the spring rate that shock was valved for is very similar to our target for an average weight FZ-10 rider. [*]The next row down shows runs to highlight the variance that each adjustment affords. Low speed compression on left, rebound on right. [*]The bottom three graphs show the high speed compression test. On the left, rebound was full soft, LSC was full hard. In center, both rebound and LSC were full hard. On right, both rebound and LSC were full soft. [*]
Great. Translation? [*]First, take notice of the rebound test plot on the center right. For those who are unfamiliar with these graphs, the positive sloping lines are compression and the negative sloping lines are rebound. Since the rebound adjustment was varied with run (4 click increase per run), you'd expect to see some increase in rebound damping on those negatively sloped lines. However, you'll also notice that the compression curves varied as well. Why? Simple. The jet in the main piston effectively increases compression damping when rebound is increased. Conversely, compression damping is reduced as rebound is reduced. It's important to note that the rebound adjuster's effect on compression damping is actually greater than the LSC adjuster. It's hard to explain without showing the internals, but take my word for it. The numbers don't lie. [*]Note the HSC runs across the bottom. You'll see that the individual runs overlap on each sheet (six runs in total). This is because the HSC adjuster doesn't actually do anything in the speed ranges we're able to measure. As mentioned above, the rebound and LSC adjustments have a larger effect. [*]Now, divert your gaze from the shape of the curves to the actual values at various shaft speeds. You'll notice that the overall range of adjustment is limited and the magnitude is substantially less than the FZ-09 control shock. [*]
Blah, blah, blah...are we done here? The take away is this: Spring - too soft for most riders. Rebound - sufficient range, but tied to the compression circuit. High speed compression - minimal/no effect. Low speed compression - works, but is overshadowed by the rebound adjustment. Re-springing and revalving isn't out of the question, but we're still limited by the design of this shock. The relationship between rebound and compression won't go away without substantial modifications.
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bb
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Post by bb on Sept 17, 2016 6:14:00 GMT -7
Thanks for the detailed information. Seem that you've done a fair amount of research. My first ride on the FZ10 I thought it handled spectacular. On my second ride it seemed like the bike had lost its balance. After much deliberation I came to the conclusion that the tire pressure was to low. My question is - what's the best pressure to run? I've found that the higher pressures work really well. Is 38 rear 36 front too high? When I go to 30 rear 30 front it feels terrible
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guywithfz10
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Post by guywithfz10 on Sept 17, 2016 18:34:16 GMT -7
Thanks for the detailed information. Seem that you've done a fair amount of research. My first ride on the FZ10 I thought it handled spectacular. On my second ride it seemed like the bike had lost its balance. After much deliberation I came to the conclusion that the tire pressure was to low. My question is - what's the best pressure to run? I've found that the higher pressures work really well. Is 38 rear 36 front too high? When I go to 30 rear 30 front it feels terrible I just keep it at manufacturer specs at 36 psi front and 42 psi in the rear. Works really well for me and the bike feels like its on rails.
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Post by stoltecmoto on Sept 18, 2016 8:07:31 GMT -7
Tire pressure selection comes down to many different variables, not the least of which is personal preference. Mileage considerations notwithstanding, you'd select the tire pressure that best allows the tire compound to work for the intended use. The best way to do this is to monitor tread wear/temperature, and cold to hot pressure rise - adjust accordingly. Road surface roughness, ambient temperature, surface temperature, rider weight, riding style (i.e. how heavy the brakes and throttle are applied) all play a large role.
On the street, though...those things are harder to monitor because most people don't ride hard enough to generate the kind of wear you'll need to see. Like the previous poster mentioned, I'd hang close to the stock pressures if you care about tire life. If you wanted to gain back a little grip, you can drop each end a few psi. IIRC, I'm running the Bridgestones at 34F 38R for now.
Keep in mind, if you're trying to tune the ride quality with tire pressure...you're on a fool's errand. Although higher pressures will translate to more transmission (and vice versa), the effects on grip and life far outweigh the ride quality impact. If you're after better ride quality, it's best to address the suspension first...tires last. That said, some tires ride better than others. Michelins and Pirellis typically have softer carcasses while Dunlop and Bridgestone are harder. As much as I love the value of the Dunlop Q3, I HATE using them on the street for this reason.
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bb
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Post by bb on Sept 18, 2016 17:59:24 GMT -7
Thanks for the detailed information. Seem that you've done a fair amount of research. My first ride on the FZ10 I thought it handled spectacular. On my second ride it seemed like the bike had lost its balance. After much deliberation I came to the conclusion that the tire pressure was to low. My question is - what's the best pressure to run? I've found that the higher pressures work really well. Is 38 rear 36 front too high? When I go to 30 rear 30 front it feels terrible I just keep it at manufacturer specs at 36 psi front and 42 psi in the rear. Works really well for me and the bike feels like its on rails. I set the pressures 36 rear 36 front. The ride was much better today. Really love this bike
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mrhix
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Post by mrhix on Nov 2, 2016 8:38:27 GMT -7
Hi,
I'm 5'8" (1.7 m) and 165 lbs (75 kg) without gear. I ride street aggressively but no track. Most of the roads are smooth to moderately bumpy.
Has anyone come up with spring rates front & rear for this type of riding? Is anyone making appropriate springs that will fit the FZ/MT-10? What are the stock spring rates?
Thanks,
MrHix
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kup0236
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Post by kup0236 on Nov 2, 2016 9:17:08 GMT -7
Suspension settings
Front Rebound in to out 3 clicks Comp in to out 6 clicks Out to in big nut 14 on
Rear Hi speed big nut 2.5 out Low speed 7 out Rebound bottom 4 out
These are some suspension settings I found for the MT10 on YouTube. I like them for me. I'm 5'9, 200lb with no gear. It feels much more firm than the stock settings but really composed on the street. I don't do much aggressive riding any more but it's night and day for the bumpy stuff.
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mrhix
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Post by mrhix on Nov 2, 2016 9:57:30 GMT -7
Thanks kup0236,
I see most riders in the 200 lb range like the fork springs. Being 165 lbs, I would like to know what options I have for springs.
Cheers,
MrHix
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Post by Cruizin on Nov 2, 2016 11:39:42 GMT -7
Thanks kup0236, I see most riders in the 200 lb range like the fork springs. Being 165 lbs, I would like to know what options I have for springs. Cheers, MrHix Give @stoltec a call but you should be fine at that weight with the stock fork springs.
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mrhix
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Post by mrhix on Nov 2, 2016 16:50:09 GMT -7
Thanks kup0236, I see most riders in the 200 lb range like the fork springs. Being 165 lbs, I would like to know what options I have for springs. Cheers, MrHix Give @stoltec a call but you should be fine at that weight with the stock fork springs. I did, but I haven't got a call back yet. Isn't this forum where members can help other members out by providing info to all? All I get is "call a vendor." I am looking forward to getting good information from riders like me so I will have a good idea what they are saying. MrHix
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Post by Cruizin on Nov 2, 2016 16:54:48 GMT -7
Give @stoltec a call but you should be fine at that weight with the stock fork springs. I did, but I haven't got a call back yet. Isn't this forum where members can help other members out by providing info to all? All I get is "call a vendor." I am looking forward to getting good information from riders like me so I will have a good idea what they are saying. MrHix Well Unbunch your panties for a sec. Again, at 165 lbs , the stock springs should be just fine. I don't know how else to explain that to you. Changing springs at 165 lbs would be a waste of money in my opinion. Most jap bikes are sprung stock for 165-180 lb riders. Speaking of forum advice, I have been begging fz-10 owners to write up some tech tips in our tech tip section to no avail. We get some nice pics and stuff, but unlike my other forums, not much for tech advice as of yet, this is why I advised you to ask a suspension vendor if you don't believe that the stock springs are set for 165 lb riders.
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Post by tigershark on Jan 9, 2017 17:48:20 GMT -7
Ordered new Penske 8983 shock from Stoltec Moto today. Potential ship date, Jan 23. No testing though until spring. Will post progress later.
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Post by Cruizin on Jan 9, 2017 19:00:48 GMT -7
You will like that double clicker. It's a huge improvement over stock and you will be passing fools in the corners. Is he springing it for your weight and riding style?
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Post by stoltecmoto on Jan 9, 2017 19:24:35 GMT -7
Is he springing it for your weight and riding style? We do it no other way! Thanks, Jim!
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