stock cats remove

I did it. was a pain in the ass and I almost took off a finger. so becareful!

u gotta get a long drill bit. drill a bunch of holes in the honecombs, then hammer it out with a long thick screw driver or pry bar. again, careful when u are hammering, dont use small screw drivers or anything that is sketchy. i hit my thumb with the edge of the pipe and cut it from side to side. The honeycombs are hard to drill and harder to hammer out. this process takes time. 2-3 hours of good work. also, u will need someone to hold it or find a way to clamp it down real good. 

Its worth it. sounds way better and feels better too

I recently got a 3/4 system so might sell my gutted cat, not sure

Job done, lots of rain here in Manchester yesterday, so i assembled tools to attack the cats, all in it took a good four hours, with a break for lunch between each cat.

As satorifz10 said clamping the box securely is a must, luckily i have a big vice which made the job not easy but a hell of a lot safer.

Tools used : 14" masonry drill, large cold steel chisel, long screw driver and a big lump hammer, a claw hammer just wasn't big enough.

It takes a long time to try and get the bores smooth after you remove the majority of the cats.

Raining here again today, so i will mount the new de-catted box

So I did this...sorta. I bought a decat pipe and had 2WDW flash for decat and stock can. Ran great but way too loud and not a good low end sound. So I bought a Graves slip on can and that was deeper but still alert the police loud.

So I grabbed the cat off the floor and I tool a 1" paddle bit and drilled a hole smack in the center of both sets of honeycombs until the hole was about 1/2" from the end. Then I used a wide flat blade to turn in the small hole the point of the paddle bit left and opened it up to maybe 3/8" so I could see clear through.







I then took the exup spring a flipped the legs back wards so the spring tension was reversed holding it open instead of closed, this way I may put one of the cables back on and hook it to a small lever by the seat so i can close the valve manually going in to "incognito" mode...

I reinstalled everything with the graves can and wow, to me, the sound is amazing!

I reached out to the good folks at 2WDW and Kirk graciously discussed this new set up with Nels and decided that the tune I had was probably the best over all tune I should stick with that. 

This is the final after completing the drilling



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I added the last picture showing the completed gut, removing all material on both

-T

I run the R1 cat.

It's sounds better with out any modifying as it has a free flow (straight flow section) as well and the catalytic sections. I have the EXUP wired open.

I'd try it as it is as you may well like it as it is just as I did.

Things to watch out for are the exhaust hanger (if used) will need modifying due to the R1 cat being more swept up. Also the OEM rearsets will catch the heat shield at the rear brake lever when used so that will also need modding (trimming).

Has anyone tried a high flow catalytic converter on our bike?

I'd love to free up some flow, sound, and power but dont want to run without any cat at all.

Leo Vince, while not a cat, is a link pipe with a resonator to help quieten it down. It's still very loud though.

The R1 cat is more free flowing owing to the straight through section.

Here is a illustration of the differences.

In answer Danny, it is flashed but set up for the stock cat. EXUP is deactivated (though I do make and sell EXUP eliminators at .

It does need to be dyno'd as it's running too rich now. Time and funds putting a bar on this at the moment.

Great stuff very interesting 
I definitely going to install the R1 cat first without any alteration.

what king kind of heat shield have you mounted ? The R1 heat shield or an other after market brand ? Very cool !