audiblepop94
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Post by audiblepop94 on Apr 22, 2017 21:45:26 GMT -7
Is it really necessary to swap to 15w50 in hot climate?
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othgbronco82
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Post by othgbronco82 on Apr 23, 2017 1:31:39 GMT -7
Is it really necessary to swap to 15w50 in hot climate? 10w40 works too. I think a lot of it depends on how common either one is in your area. And how hot are you talking? Like 110+ consistently? If it's that hot consistently where you live it might not be a bad idea assuming you can find it somewhat easily. |
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audiblepop94
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Post by audiblepop94 on Apr 23, 2017 7:29:55 GMT -7
Is it really necessary to swap to 15w50 in hot climate? 10w40 works too. I think a lot of it depends on how common either one is in your area. And how hot are you talking? Like 110+ consistently? If it's that hot consistently where you live it might not be a bad idea assuming you can find it somewhat easily. Georgia area, so high 90's/low 100's. I was curious because the stealership has me running 15w50 and I am unsure if that's because this engine needed thicker oil in warm climates or such.I've used 10w40 in every bike before this though |
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othgbronco82
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Post by othgbronco82 on Apr 25, 2017 16:31:14 GMT -7
10w40 works too. I think a lot of it depends on how common either one is in your area. And how hot are you talking? Like 110+ consistently? If it's that hot consistently where you live it might not be a bad idea assuming you can find it somewhat easily. Georgia area, so high 90's/low 100's. I was curious because the stealership has me running 15w50 and I am unsure if that's because this engine needed thicker oil in warm climates or such.I've used 10w40 in every bike before this though Eh, either or will work. I live in socal where it can get to 110-ish sometimes and I run 10w40 most of the time. I try and stay inside or where there's air conditioning at that point though. That's also what's easiest for me to find too. I may try some Motul 300v after break in though in either 10w-40 or 50 depending on what they have. |
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mother
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Post by mother on Apr 27, 2017 5:49:16 GMT -7
I haven't checked this thread in a while.  This is all good news to me as far as I'm concerned since I still have a full gallon of T-6 still. And ever since I did my first home oil change on the FZ-07 I had I've always used a K&N-204. I've also always done an oil filter along with the oil. I think I might just do the oil change every 2k instead of the 4k the manual calls for. I just noticed some slippage under hard acceleration on the 07, but that was after I had been riding for a while. Plus two gallons of T-6 is still going to be cheaper than Motul 300V. Keep an eye on that K&N oil filter. I like them too, but have seen a few failures where they ended up with a pinhole where the "nut" is spot welded on the end. |
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othgbronco82
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Post by othgbronco82 on May 4, 2017 4:06:56 GMT -7
I haven't checked this thread in a while. This is all good news to me as far as I'm concerned since I still have a full gallon of T-6 still. And ever since I did my first home oil change on the FZ-07 I had I've always used a K&N-204. I've also always done an oil filter along with the oil. I think I might just do the oil change every 2k instead of the 4k the manual calls for. I just noticed some slippage under hard acceleration on the 07, but that was after I had been riding for a while. Plus two gallons of T-6 is still going to be cheaper than Motul 300V. Keep an eye on that K&N oil filter. I like them too, but have seen a few failures where they ended up with a pinhole where the "nut" is spot welded on the end. Hmm.  Haven't had an issue so far. If anything does start to leak I have the bike on a piece of cardboard that way any oil doesn't end up on the garage floor. |
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mother
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Post by mother on May 4, 2017 7:57:55 GMT -7
Yeah, when I saw it happen we were on a ride though and it took some investigation to figure out where the oil was coming from that was all over my friend's back tire. I have one on my Super Hawk right now, but probably won't use them in the future for fear of getting stranded. Amazon reviews confirm it's not an isolated case.
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satorifz10
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Post by satorifz10 on May 4, 2017 19:50:02 GMT -7
F K&N. im NEVER going to put one of their oil filters on any bike again. had it on my previous bike, redlining up the gears when i felt the oil on my boot at 120mph. all the oil came out by the time i pulled over, luckily i didnt go down. was all over the rear tire! smh, ive tried to tell people to stay away from those filters, but some will argue that k&n is the shit and whatever, i dont wanna argue, just sharing my experience and from research, the experience of many others that this has happened to, google it if u want. just get oem filter at the dealer. some racing organizations are only allowing oem filters and im guessing this is the reason why.
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othgbronco82
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Post by othgbronco82 on May 5, 2017 5:11:06 GMT -7
Not to get too off track. But what other oil filters are there that have the little nut on the end and are good? That's really the only reason I'm using the K&N's is it's easy to remove as I don't have a strap wrench or the special socket for the oil filter.
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audiblepop94
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Post by audiblepop94 on May 20, 2017 14:38:23 GMT -7
Just a heads up to anyone riding in warm weather...
I was chating with a mechanic at the local shop, they have had (2) 2015+ R1's with blown engines after switching to 10w40 in warm weather (80's+) recently. Obviously, these engines run on the hot side, and apparently the thinner oil is not lubricating properly at running temps. They also had a Yamaha rep come by a few months ago and tell them specifically to run 15w50 only in R1's and 10's because of common issues and failures when running anything thinner in hot weather. The rep apparently said that other brand oils within proper standards ratings are acceptable, but if an engine/transmission failure occurs, Yamaha will first sample the oil and determine the weight being used, anything below 15w50 will void warranty repair or replacement...
I do not state this matter of factly, I am just relaying what I was told, fwiw.
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Post by evitzee on May 20, 2017 15:49:29 GMT -7
Just a heads up to anyone riding in warm weather... I was chating with a mechanic at the local shop, they have had (2) 2015+ R1's with blown engines after switching to 10w40 in warm weather (80's+) recently. Obviously, these engines run on the hot side, and apparently the thinner oil is not lubricating properly at running temps. They also had a Yamaha rep come by a few months ago and tell them specifically to run 15w50 only in R1's and 10's because of common issues and failures when running anything thinner in hot weather. The rep apparently said that other brand oils within proper standards ratings are acceptable, but if an engine/transmission failure occurs, Yamaha will first sample the oil and determine the weight being used, anything below 15w50 will void warranty repair or replacement... I do not state this matter of factly, I am just relaying what I was told, fwiw. Yamaha CAN'T refuse to cover a claim based on the owner running a weight less than 50 because in the FZ-10 Owner's Manual and Service Manual they state that 10W40 and 15W50 weights are both acceptable (no recommendation on changing to 15W50 for summer riding). I don't doubt what you were told but the Yamaha's position would never hold up. On the surface it would appear Yamaha is just trying to wiggle out of some warranty claims. Don't know how the R1's engines blew up but were probably track related, perhaps they went too far into the red line zone in the heat of battle. |
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warnock
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Post by warnock on May 20, 2017 16:27:09 GMT -7
Just a heads up to anyone riding in warm weather... I was chating with a mechanic at the local shop, they have had (2) 2015+ R1's with blown engines after switching to 10w40 in warm weather (80's+) recently. Obviously, these engines run on the hot side, and apparently the thinner oil is not lubricating properly at running temps. They also had a Yamaha rep come by a few months ago and tell them specifically to run 15w50 only in R1's and 10's because of common issues and failures when running anything thinner in hot weather. The rep apparently said that other brand oils within proper standards ratings are acceptable, but if an engine/transmission failure occurs, Yamaha will first sample the oil and determine the weight being used, anything below 15w50 will void warranty repair or replacement... I do not state this matter of factly, I am just relaying what I was told, fwiw. That is crazzyyy! I only been putting in Fully authentic 15W50 yamalube because they offer that warranty if they didn't I would be using 10W40 and in NJ it gets pretty hot 80's and 90's. |
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kup0236
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Post by kup0236 on May 20, 2017 18:35:06 GMT -7
Keep an eye on that K&N oil filter. I like them too, but have seen a few failures where they ended up with a pinhole where the "nut" is spot welded on the end. Hmm. Haven't had an issue so far. If anything does start to leak I have the bike on a piece of cardboard that way any oil doesn't end up on the garage floor. 5 Yamahas later never had a leak. One of the many reasons I'm loyal to them. |
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Post by 0002s on May 21, 2017 4:52:19 GMT -7
Crisco and Light Virgin Olive Oil in a 57.2/42.8 mix.
I get a non stick gaurentee and my exhaust spells like a cold penne salad.
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audiblepop94
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Post by audiblepop94 on May 22, 2017 17:28:06 GMT -7
Just a heads up to anyone riding in warm weather... I was chating with a mechanic at the local shop, they have had (2) 2015+ R1's with blown engines after switching to 10w40 in warm weather (80's+) recently. Obviously, these engines run on the hot side, and apparently the thinner oil is not lubricating properly at running temps. They also had a Yamaha rep come by a few months ago and tell them specifically to run 15w50 only in R1's and 10's because of common issues and failures when running anything thinner in hot weather. The rep apparently said that other brand oils within proper standards ratings are acceptable, but if an engine/transmission failure occurs, Yamaha will first sample the oil and determine the weight being used, anything below 15w50 will void warranty repair or replacement... I do not state this matter of factly, I am just relaying what I was told, fwiw. Yamaha CAN'T refuse to cover a claim based on the owner running a weight less than 50 because in the FZ-10 Owner's Manual and Service Manual they state that 10W40 and 15W50 weights are both acceptable (no recommendation on changing to 15W50 for summer riding). I don't doubt what you were told but the Yamaha's position would never hold up. On the surface it would appear Yamaha is just trying to wiggle out of some warranty claims. Don't know how the R1's engines blew up but were probably track related, perhaps they went too far into the red line zone in the heat of battle. It definitely doesn't sound like they could do something like that, seeing as what is stated in the manual. I am still going to stick to higher weight in warm weather now, for peace of mind. The two R1's that blew were both owned by active military weekend joy rider's (on my base), so it could be a combination of many things.. bike maintenance neglect, shitty riding/bike treatment, constant slow/stop and go traffic in town and on base with a hot running engine... who knows, I'd rather be safe than sorry knowing about these two incidents. |
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audiblepop94
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Post by audiblepop94 on May 22, 2017 17:28:59 GMT -7
Crisco and Light Virgin Olive Oil in a 57.2/42.8 mix. I get a non stick gaurentee and my exhaust spells like a cold penne salad. Cold penne salad is gross.. |
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srosa
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Post by srosa on May 23, 2017 9:02:58 GMT -7
Hmm. Haven't had an issue so far. If anything does start to leak I have the bike on a piece of cardboard that way any oil doesn't end up on the garage floor. 5 Yamahas later never had a leak. One of the many reasons I'm loyal to them. MotoAmerica tech rules disallowed the use of all aftermarket oil filters on 2015+ R1's for unstated reasons. That was enough motivation for me to stick with OEM for now. |
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Post by evitzee on May 23, 2017 15:20:58 GMT -7
Did a little research on the ban. Appears it was due to an o-ring blowout on an aftermarket filter which caused a crash and fire, so not due to the nut failing. However, I've seen recommendations saying you should NOT use the nut to tighten, only for removal. That seems to defeat part of the benefit of the nut. K&N moved production a couple of years ago so these problems may be related to that. I think filters are made in Thailand now. Hopefully they have fixed the problems. But I might use an OEM next time just to be safe.
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othgbronco82
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Post by othgbronco82 on May 29, 2017 5:03:56 GMT -7
Just a heads up to anyone riding in warm weather... I was chating with a mechanic at the local shop, they have had (2) 2015+ R1's with blown engines after switching to 10w40 in warm weather (80's+) recently. Obviously, these engines run on the hot side, and apparently the thinner oil is not lubricating properly at running temps. They also had a Yamaha rep come by a few months ago and tell them specifically to run 15w50 only in R1's and 10's because of common issues and failures when running anything thinner in hot weather. The rep apparently said that other brand oils within proper standards ratings are acceptable, but if an engine/transmission failure occurs, Yamaha will first sample the oil and determine the weight being used, anything below 15w50 will void warranty repair or replacement... I do not state this matter of factly, I am just relaying what I was told, fwiw. Yamaha CAN'T refuse to cover a claim based on the owner running a weight less than 50 because in the FZ-10 Owner's Manual and Service Manual they state that 10W40 and 15W50 weights are both acceptable (no recommendation on changing to 15W50 for summer riding). I don't doubt what you were told but the Yamaha's position would never hold up. On the surface it would appear Yamaha is just trying to wiggle out of some warranty claims. Don't know how the R1's engines blew up but were probably track related, perhaps they went too far into the red line zone in the heat of battle. I would hope so since I just spent almost $100 on Motul 300V 10w40. I'd probably drive down to their headquarters myself and start laying down some boot to booty hole justice. |
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This is all good news to me as far as I'm concerned since I still have a full gallon of T-6 still. And ever since I did my first home oil change on the FZ-07 I had I've always used a K&N-204. I've also always done an oil filter along with the oil. I think I might just do the oil change every 2k instead of the 4k the manual calls for. I just noticed some slippage under hard acceleration on the 07, but that was after I had been riding for a while. Plus two gallons of T-6 is still going to be cheaper than Motul 300V.
Haven't had an issue so far. If anything does start to leak I have the bike on a piece of cardboard that way any oil doesn't end up on the garage floor.
