othgbronco82
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Registered: Mar 14, 2017 21:58:26 GMT -7
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Post by othgbronco82 on Mar 15, 2017 21:42:11 GMT -7
I'm planning on doing an oil change soon and was wondering what everyone likes to use. I have a good amount of shell rotella T6 out in the garage still. Was wondering if anyone else has used the T6 and if they've noticed anything bad. If so, what did you change to?
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Post by Cruizin on Mar 15, 2017 23:12:32 GMT -7
Back in the 80's we ran 30wt car oil. I got well over 100,000 miles on a couple used bikes running 30 wt car oil. Now days, motorcycle "experts" would shudder at the thought.
T-6 is good oil. Alot of race teams use it. Shet tons of bike owners have been using it for years.
Most important thing is to change it on time and use good filters. K&N #204 or Yamaha.
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Timbo
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Post by Timbo on Mar 16, 2017 5:21:34 GMT -7
I've been using Rotella T6 for years.
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Post by tigershark on Mar 16, 2017 6:12:37 GMT -7
Supposedly Rotella changed their formula recently and people are seeing some clutch failures. It became big news and Shell has been doing some tweaking with their slippage additives. I've been reading this on other bike forums. Posters said you can even read about it on Shell's website.
I've always used Mobil 1 4T Racing Oil, which gets great reviews including extensive study reports.
The most important thing is to use oil that matches or exceeds what your user manual specifies. The brand doesn't matter as much as the grade. It must be API service SG type or higher, JASO standard MA.
The JASO determines clutch slippage and MA is critical. I think MB is used in Harleys, for one, and is a big no, no for the our Yamaha. MA-1 and MA-2 are both acceptable. The JASO rating is what distinguishes car oil from motorcycle oil, since bikes share the same oil for the engine and the clutch.
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harrybalzak
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Registered: Mar 2, 2017 11:17:12 GMT -7
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Post by harrybalzak on Mar 16, 2017 7:21:10 GMT -7
Baby or olive.
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Post by tigershark on Mar 16, 2017 9:01:25 GMT -7
Slippery lubricant. Use your imagination Harry.
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harrybalzak
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Registered: Mar 2, 2017 11:17:12 GMT -7
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Post by harrybalzak on Mar 16, 2017 9:06:38 GMT -7
Can't be water soluble so Kentucky jelly is out.
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Post by evitzee on Mar 16, 2017 11:15:20 GMT -7
Have used Shell Rotella T6 for years and have had zero issues. It is rated JASO MA so it is suitable for wet clutch m/c use. No way to tell if some isolated clutch failures are due to T6 or some other issue. There is ZERO content on the Shell Rotella site concerning any issues with using T6 in a m/c engine, at least I couldn't find any. Personally it sounds like normal internet talk with some unhappy bikers who want to blame a tranny failure on the oil. Until Shell removes the JASO MA designation from their label I'll continue to use it. It probably is a good idea to always check the bottle in the store to make sure the designation is still on the label on the chance that Shell reformulated it and removed its suitability for bikes. That could happen.
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Post by tigershark on Mar 16, 2017 14:12:13 GMT -7
Probably right. I agree about the JASO MA covering its safe usage and I've always heard good things about it in the past. I just went back to the other forum and requested the Shell link about the formula change for validation. If he provides it, I'll post it on this thread. Edit: The only legitimate links provided were to Shell's full blown page on T6. All they mention are changes to the original formula to meet higher standard requirements and further improve the product. Nothing about addressing motorcycle clutch issues and not a single thing about adding "moly", which one of the other forum posters was claiming. Want to know how T6 stacks up with the competition? Check out this long detailed study. 540ratblog.wordpress.com/ |
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othgbronco82
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Post by othgbronco82 on Apr 4, 2017 1:15:39 GMT -7
I haven't checked this thread in a while.  This is all good news to me as far as I'm concerned since I still have a full gallon of T-6 still. And ever since I did my first home oil change on the FZ-07 I had I've always used a K&N-204. I've also always done an oil filter along with the oil. I think I might just do the oil change every 2k instead of the 4k the manual calls for. I just noticed some slippage under hard acceleration on the 07, but that was after I had been riding for a while. Plus two gallons of T-6 is still going to be cheaper than Motul 300V. |
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Deleted
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Registered: Nov 25, 2024 3:32:39 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2017 4:18:04 GMT -7
I run T6 in my FZ1 and 10. The 1 has 103Kmi and the latter 3/4 of that mileage has been on Rotella T6. My understanding is that the Rotella formula was tweaked to meet the 2016 PC-11 diesel standards. New jug shapes are out but the product is still JASO MA certified.
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Post by 0002s on Apr 4, 2017 7:59:03 GMT -7
Motul 300V 15W50
Just put the spec'd oil that is the best for your riding style.
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othgbronco82
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Post by othgbronco82 on Apr 4, 2017 17:37:53 GMT -7
Motul 300V 15W50 Just put the spec'd oil that is the best for your riding style. It's mainly a lot of commuting with canyons on my days off. If I can find a place that won't absolutely rape me on the Motul 300V price I may just use that. |
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Post by pjfz1 on Apr 9, 2017 8:28:18 GMT -7
Rotella T6 for the win.
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sumgi
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Post by sumgi on Apr 22, 2017 12:40:44 GMT -7
I'm a little confused now. My FZ-10 is due to arrive early next week and I asked the sales person what kind of oil is used by Yamaha. He said it comes with synthetic oil from the factory. I was thinking about trying the break-in method as suggested in another post so I'd be changing the oil in the first 20 miles. Which oil should I use for the first oil change? The post says to use non-synthetic oil during the break in period. Would I just use regular car motor oil during the break in period then switch to synthetic oil after it's broken in?
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guywithfz10
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Post by guywithfz10 on Apr 22, 2017 14:58:58 GMT -7
I'm a little confused now. My FZ-10 is due to arrive early next week and I asked the sales person what kind of oil is used by Yamaha. He said it comes with synthetic oil from the factory. I was thinking about trying the break-in method as suggested in another post so I'd be changing the oil in the first 20 miles. Which oil should I use for the first oil change? The post says to use non-synthetic oil during the break in period. Would I just use regular car motor oil during the break in period then switch to synthetic oil after it's broken in? For my first oil change during break in process (600 mi/1000km) I just took it to the dealer and they put in synthetic Yamalube 15W-50. |
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Post by evitzee on Apr 22, 2017 15:04:46 GMT -7
I'm a little confused now. My FZ-10 is due to arrive early next week and I asked the sales person what kind of oil is used by Yamaha. He said it comes with synthetic oil from the factory. I was thinking about trying the break-in method as suggested in another post so I'd be changing the oil in the first 20 miles. Which oil should I use for the first oil change? The post says to use non-synthetic oil during the break in period. Would I just use regular car motor oil during the break in period then switch to synthetic oil after it's broken in? NO! Don't use regular car oil, since the FZ-10's transmission uses the same oil as the engine it MUST meet JASO MA specifications. Regular oil has friction modifiers that will mess up your clutch plates causing the tranny to slip. If I was going to do the 20 mi change, which I think is overkill, I would use Shell Rotella T6 which is a full synthetic and reasonably priced (about $22 for four qts at Walmart). I see no advantage in using a non-spec, non-synthetic oil after 20 miles other than cost. Why would you cheap out on oil that is non-approved by the manufacturer? If they call for full synthetic than suck it up and pay the cost for full synthetic oil if you are going to dump the initial oil in the bike at 20 miles. Again, I always go by what the manufacturer says, and Yamaha says do an oil/filter change at 600 miles. If they believed the engine would last longer/perform better by changing it at 20 miles they would recommend this.
Engine oil and gasoline opinions are like a**holes, everyone has one. If you follow Yamaha's specs you'll be fine. I've NEVER had any engine problems in a car or bike in over 50 years of driving, and all I do is follow the recommended service periods stated by the manufacturer.
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sumgi
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Post by sumgi on Apr 22, 2017 15:37:44 GMT -7
Stop yelling at me!!! lol!!  I wasn't going to actually use regular oil; I knew there was a reason not to, just didn't remember why. Thanks for your opinion though. I've heard a lot about Rotella T6 and the manual's recommended Yamahalube synthetic oil. Using non synthetic oil has nothing to do with the cost. www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm |
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Post by mjh937 on Apr 22, 2017 17:43:07 GMT -7
Yamaha recommends Yamalube because they make money selling it. Any oil that meets the JASO MA standards is fine. Not to say anything bad about Yamalube, but you do not need to use it just because the manual recommends it.
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sumgi
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Post by sumgi on Apr 22, 2017 21:35:28 GMT -7
That's what I was thinking. If they make it why wouldn't they recommend using it. Has anyone noticed a difference in feel with how their bikes have run over the years with certain types of oil? Is there a difference in how it feels when shifting or anything like that?
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This is all good news to me as far as I'm concerned since I still have a full gallon of T-6 still. And ever since I did my first home oil change on the FZ-07 I had I've always used a K&N-204. I've also always done an oil filter along with the oil. I think I might just do the oil change every 2k instead of the 4k the manual calls for. I just noticed some slippage under hard acceleration on the 07, but that was after I had been riding for a while. Plus two gallons of T-6 is still going to be cheaper than Motul 300V.
I wasn't going to actually use regular oil; I knew there was a reason not to, just didn't remember why. Thanks for your opinion though. I've heard a lot about Rotella T6 and the manual's recommended Yamahalube synthetic oil. Using non synthetic oil has nothing to do with the cost.