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Post by 0002s on Mar 4, 2017 17:07:54 GMT -7
This is a very simple job and can be done by anyone with simple tools. I installed ASV C/5 standard clutch and black levers, but this install will work for all aftermarket levers. PURCHASE FROM RevZillia: www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/asv-c5-sport-brake-lever-aprilia-honda-kawasaki-moto-guzzi-yamahawww.revzilla.com/motorcycle/asv-c5-sport-clutch-lever-aprilia-honda-suzuki-triumph-yamaha TOOLS YOU'LL NEED:  1. Flat Head screwdriver 2. 1/4" socket wrench 3. Deep pocket 10mm socket (any 10mm will do, but if you don't use a deep pocket you'll have to remove the gauge pod on the clutch side to get to the clutch nut) 4. 2.5mm allen head wrench 5. 10mm box wrench 6. Needle Nose pliers 7. White lithium grease BRAKE LEVER: Step One: Remove nut from underneath brake lever using 10mm box wrench (save it is small and can get lost) Step Two: Using flat head screwdriver remove the screw on top of the brake lever    Step Three: Remove OEM brake lever and set aside Step Four: Take ASV Brake lever and get the medium bushing, taking the White Lithium Grease and coating bushing. Insert bushing into brake lever arm open hole (it's the only hole it will fit in) Step Five: Take White Lithium Grease and coat the Flat Head Bolt  Step Six: Look under the brake fluid reservoir and you will see a brake solenoid lever. Coat that with White Lithium Grease  Step Seven: Take the new Brake Lever and insert it back in place making sure to fit the brake solenoid lever into the hole it lines up with (VERY IMPORTANT) Step Eight: Insert Flat Head Screw and screw until hand tight. Now take the nut and tighten to hand tight. DONE! Turn the bike on and squeeze the brake lever listening for a clicking sound of the solenoid. Then roll the bike back and forth checking for the front brake to function correctly.  CLUTCH LEVER: (this one takes a little bit more time) Step One: Take the 1/4" ratchet and 10mm deep pocket socket (if you don't use a 1/4" deep pocket socket you'll have to remove the control cluster to get at the bolt). Remove the bolt from the bottom of the screw holding the clutch in place. Step Two: Remove the bolt that is holding the clutch lever in place. You will notice that the bolt is indexed to fit in to the notch so it won't rotate when you tighten it. Step Three: Remove the Clutch Lever. You will notice that it is attached to the clutch cable. Pull the lever towards you and twist until you see the locking pin attached to the cable. Slide the pin out of the clutch lever. The pin and cable will pull tight to the clutch cable adjustment wheel.  Step Four: Screw the Neutral Kill Tab, using 2.5mm Allen Head Wrench, into place using a small amount of LOCTITE. Look at the OEM Clutch Lever and match the Beveled side to the same as OEM. Step Five: Apply White Lithium Grease to the Supplied Bushing (Or OEM if one is not provided) and re-insert into the new Clutch Lever. Step Six: Apply White Lithium Grease to the Clutch Bolt  Step Seven: Just like when you removed the OEM Clutch Lever, turn the ASV Clutch Lever over so you can see the Clutch Cable Pin hole. Take the Needle Nose Pliers and grab the Clutch Pin. Pull on the Clutch Pin so you get slack. If you need more slack adjust the Clutch Cable Adjustment Wheel to give you more slack. Inset the Clutch Cable Pin into the hole on the ASV Clutch Lever. Now spin the ASV lever over and re-inset into housing. Step Eight: Inset the Clutch Lever Bolt into and press fit making sure the index tab lines up so the bolt sits flat. Step Nine: Take the 1/4" wrench and 10mm deep pocket socket and tighten bolt to hand tight. DONE!  Check to see that the clutch has tension and does not bind. Check to see if you feel the cable engaging the clutch. Now start the bike and slowly engage the clutch in first and check to see that the clutch in engaging and moving the bike forward. SLOWLY. Make any adjustment to the Clutch Cable Adjustment Wheel based on your preferences. Test Cruise Control to see if ligh works. Test Clutch Neutral Shut off to see if it works. Take the bike out and SLOWLY ride it checking the Clutch Engagements and Front Brake Engagements. Make sure it feels right and there is no binding and or 'weird feel'. If there is STOP and check your work. After checking the fit, feel, and operations of the install, ENJOY YOUR NEW CLUTCH AND BRAKE LEVERS. |
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Post by evitzee on Mar 4, 2017 19:16:34 GMT -7
Good pics and writeup! I added the same ASV levers a few weeks ago (regular length) but had a slight problem fitting the clutch lever. Looking at your pics you have the same issue I had. You will notice that your lever does NOT sit completely on the perch when at rest, notice you have about an 8mm gap where you can see the clutch cable between the perch and the lever. Yamaha slightly changed the design of their lever in the last year or so so the previous ASV neutral kill switch tab supplied with the lever doesn't allow the lever to close completely. It will work in the setup as is but you end up taking a lot of free slack in the clutch cable and the kill switch and cruise control may be compromised as the lever isn't fitting like it is supposed to. The neutral kill switch tab on the lever is hitting the clutch perch, not allowing it to close completely.
I wrote to ASV and got the following response from ASV Technical support, "We did a revision last summer for our CRC540/CRF340 part number clutch lever to work on the 2017 FZ 10. We made a different tab that is longer and has a notch in it so the neutral kill switch is covered better and the tab won’t collide with the perch when in the closed position, leaving it slightly open. The new tab solves both these issues and also allows it to work on all other Yamaha’s, and has been shipping with that part number since last summer. The levers you bought must have shipped from our factory before last summer. I am happy to send you one of these new tabs at no charge."
They sent one out immediately and I put the new tab on (you can do it without removing the new lever already in place) and it fixes the problem completely. Once you see the new tab you will completely understand why they had to redesign it, and you will see how the tab they supplied originally is being chewed up by the interference. Long term it could be an issue.
Contact Rob Morales at techsupport@asvinventions.com and he will fix you up. They are fully aware of the problem and they want their products to fit as designed. I'm sure it is also for safety and liability reasons.
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Post by 0002s on Mar 4, 2017 20:29:29 GMT -7
I thought that the clutch was pushed forward quit a bit. It works, but you're right it does not sit flush to the perch and rests on neutral kill switch.
Thanks for the heads up. I've sent an email.
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spartanadv
Full Member
Posts: 163
Likes: 104
Registered: Nov 30, 2016 19:55:37 GMT -7
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Post by spartanadv on Mar 4, 2017 20:56:35 GMT -7
I ordered the ASV F3 on the 28th. Still waiting for mine. This write up is going to help a lot. 4 days of waiting is killing me! Lol. Your C/5's look awesome! Looks like my ecu and levers should hit Monday. Hopefully I won't run into any fitment issues. I had a fitment issue with Warp 9 levers on my DR650 but I shaved them down to fit flush. Guess we'll see.
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Post by tigershark on Mar 5, 2017 7:54:23 GMT -7
Nice procedure write up. You forgot to mention testing the cruise control operation and safe shut off with both levers.You could still edit that in.
Cheers.
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Post by slv on Mar 5, 2017 8:36:48 GMT -7
Love the ASV levers. I had them on my SuperMoto bikes in Japan. This time around I'm trying the Pazzo levers. Also excellent quality and fit. I like the position adjuster on the Pazzi better, but the ASV has finer adjustment intervals.
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Post by 0002s on Mar 5, 2017 8:40:43 GMT -7
Nice procedure write up. You forgot to mention testing the cruise control operation and safe shut off with both levers.You could still edit that in. Cheers. Good catch. Fixed. |
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Post by 0002s on Mar 11, 2017 15:43:04 GMT -7
They shipped me the replacement block for free. Here is what the two blocks look like side by side. Bottom block is the replacement part. Issue fixed. Great customer service from ASV.   |
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beast
New Member
Posts: 9
Likes: 7
Registered: Mar 12, 2017 20:50:21 GMT -7
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Post by beast on Mar 26, 2017 22:16:26 GMT -7
Unfortunately I didn't notice the second post on this thread. Doh. I have the same issue and received the same (incorrect) block from Revzilla.
The brake lever went on without a hitch, however, I cannot get the clutch lever to work at all. It doesn't fully disengage the clutch. I can let my clutch all of the way out and it will barely pull me along and won't stall the bike.
Do you guys have any suggestions. Will this block fix this or did I mess something else up?
Thanks,
Clif
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Post by 0002s on Mar 26, 2017 22:25:17 GMT -7
Unfortunately I didn't notice the second post on this thread. Doh. I have the same issue and received the same (incorrect) block from Revzilla. The brake lever went on without a hitch, however, I cannot get the clutch lever to work at all. It doesn't fully disengage the clutch. I can let my clutch all of the way out and it will barely pull me along and won't stall the bike. Do you guys have any suggestions. Will this block fix this or did I mess something else up? Thanks, Clif email: techsupport@asvinventions.com Explain what happened. They will send you the replacement block for free. |
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Post by evitzee on Mar 26, 2017 22:30:28 GMT -7
What he said ^^^^. Just send a note to ASV and they will immediately send a replacement tab out. That will fix your problem immediately. Obviously don't ride your bike until you get it fixed, you may damage the clutch running it as is.
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guywithfz10
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Posts: 218
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Registered: Sept 1, 2016 17:49:46 GMT -7
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Post by guywithfz10 on Mar 28, 2017 21:52:27 GMT -7
I installed a new clutch lever and it moves fine when I'm moving the lever through its range of motion while the bike is off but when the bike is running, there's like a grating feeling like the bolt and the bearing are grinding against each other. But this is only when the engine is on. Moves very smoothly when it's off. Any ideas? Do I just have to apply more grease?
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Post by tigershark on Mar 29, 2017 7:03:48 GMT -7
Maybe a longer break-in is required. Sounds like the slight engine vibes affect how the moving clutch parts contact things. Just to rule out something in the clutch or cable, I would swap back to the factory lever and try it out. If that's okay, lube all the moving parts on the replacement lever and try it again. Verify correct torque on fasteners as well. Are all bushing and spacers correct and accounted for? Unlikely, since a bushing missing or incorrect size should bind with or without the engine running.
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griever
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Registered: Jun 5, 2017 10:02:05 GMT -7
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Post by griever on Jul 10, 2017 9:54:39 GMT -7
So glad I found this thread. After I installed my levers I was not able to set the Cruise Control. Email sent to ASV.
Thanks for the Info here guys! Love this Forum!
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Post by 0002s on Jul 11, 2017 10:00:03 GMT -7
I installed a new clutch lever and it moves fine when I'm moving the lever through its range of motion while the bike is off but when the bike is running, there's like a grating feeling like the bolt and the bearing are grinding against each other. But this is only when the engine is on. Moves very smoothly when it's off. Any ideas? Do I just have to apply more grease? I have an occasional 'click' feeling. I believe it's the breakaway spring in the lever catching and popping. I can see no wear. It only seems to happen when I move the clutch in credibility quickly. Not an issue as much as slightly annoying. |
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sc
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Registered: Sept 16, 2017 4:23:37 GMT -7
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Post by sc on Sept 18, 2017 14:21:32 GMT -7
Has anyone noticed a slight "whirr" sound from the clutch case after installing the clutch lever? My lever had no play after installation so I adjusted it according to the manual. Good amount of play and engagement/disengagement for me but when the clutch is at rest in neutral it sounds like you can hear the gears inside spinning. Did not notice this before installation/adjustment and when the lever is pulled in it quiets down. Any suggestions?
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crookedcop
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Registered: Apr 25, 2017 18:34:32 GMT -7
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Post by crookedcop on May 8, 2018 13:54:14 GMT -7
Is it possible to get the photos re-upped , they are not showing to me. Perhaps a problem with the original photo account ?
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texbrian
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Registered: Jul 12, 2018 15:50:02 GMT -7
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Post by texbrian on Aug 11, 2018 8:14:03 GMT -7
for some reason i can't see the pictures on this post. Do I have something set wrong?
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morbo
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Registered: Feb 26, 2018 7:27:44 GMT -7
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Post by morbo on Aug 11, 2018 15:35:40 GMT -7
The photos were uploaded to Photobucket. They only host the photos for so long before deleting the images. The links are dead at this point. Need to use Flickr or Imgur. Free and won't delete them after a period of time.
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Deleted
Posts: 0
Registered: Nov 21, 2024 2:15:40 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Aug 12, 2018 13:24:54 GMT -7
Is it possible to get the photos re-upped , they are not showing to me. Perhaps a problem with the original photo account ? I second this |
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