FZ-10 Quick Shift Installation

^^^^ The kit sold in the US is for either the R1 or FZ-10, same part number. But the length of the shift rod are different for each model so you have to cut the shift rod to the proper length as the instructions indicate. The FZ-10 rod is cut to 121mm whereas the R1 length is 106mm. Now I'm assuming that the QS that comes stock on the R1 is properly cut to 106mm so it is going to be short for the FZ-10. The distance from the pivot points are NOT the same for each model, mainly because the FZ-10 footpegs are lower for comfort which changes the angle of shift lever for proper orientation of your foot which requires a longer shift rod.  Per the instructions the distance between the pivot points is 271-273 mm for the FZ-10, and 258.5-260.5mm for the R1.   Perhaps there is enough slack on the threads that you can make up the approx. 12mm difference to make an R1 rod work. If a stock R1 unit works for you, great, but the dimensions are not the same between the two bikes.

I'm ready to order a QS now. Is there a way to order the FZ-10 specific one in the US, since they cost the same? Or can somebody please post the part number, so I can try to look for one? Thx. I'm not afraid to make it fit, but rather save the hour or two it'd take me to make it look OEM . Rather just get the FZ specific if possible, especially for the same coin. Thx.

By the way, never got an answer if I could so shifts without the clutch but closing the throttle (very little pressure on the shift lever) on an FZ equipped with a QS (or a 2018, which has it standard), but will risk it. I like to do clutchless upshifts closing the throttle at low rpm and acceleration, where QSs don't like it. At higher rpm and acceleration rates, obviously the QS is king, since you don't have to close the throttle. Trying to keep both, although I'm pleasantly surprised how nice is the cable clutch of the FZ (my first cable clutch), so I can get used to shift with the clutch again if needed, I guess. I'll try when it's installed and see if the bike likes it or not.

Looks like I need to order the dual part then. No problem. As I said, no issues adapting it, but yes, will do it 'right', even if nobody sees it; that's just the way I'm wired . As for the 'paint', will probably just use a Sharpie, but will sand it smooth first. Will order that along with the comfort seat and Pazzo levers. After that, just the 2 stands, chock, platform and ramp (for the truck), and should be done. Wasn't expecting to spend $2K+ on extras for the stupid bike, but prefer to deck it the way I want it right off the bat, so I can fully enjoy it for the relatively few miles I'll put on it.

Forgot to post here. Ended up ordering the QS from a dealer on eBay, which had it in stock. A bit more expensive than Cucamonga Yamaha for $170 shipped, but didn't want to risk getting discontinued, now that all new bikes have it standard. At any rate, installation was pretty straight-forward, except for the activation. I had to push the shift lever up with a lot more force (by hand) than I was initially applying, which was resulting on the 'QS' dash icon not appearing. Once I applied more pressure, it did. But I was also applying less pressure than needed when using it, which resulted on a couple of shifts that I basically forced, with the accompanying 'bang' from the tranny. At least I think that was the case. Don't know if that really happens, or you simply can't force the lever up. I wasn't using much throttle, or high rpm (still in break-in), so maybe it was that. I found out you can do clutchless upshifts closing the throttle just like before installing the QS, so that was great. I'll leave the QS for when I'm accelerating strongly enough to avoid jerky/bangy shifts. I did a couple of runs thru the gears shifting at the permitted 6K rpm, and they were seamless, so guess the shifter is working fine. All of my previous QSs have been awful at lower revs/throttle, so nothing different here. Hope I didn't do any damage to the gears with those 2 shifts, but won't happen again. Very happy to have the best of both worlds and being able to do clutchless upshifts with or without closing the throttle.

Going back to the installation, it was pretty obvious to me I could perfectly install the QS with the rod cut at the lowest notch, rather than 1 above. I wanted the installation to look stock, meaning both boots properly fitted (meaning several threads need to be under each), so decided to cut it at that lower notch. But after installation, I noticed I could have left the rod exactly like it came (no cutting at all), and still look factory, with the boots in place like mine (pics below). That way, only about 2 threads would be showing above and below the black rod, enough for any adjustment... but remember there're still like 5 more threads above and below both boots, so a ton of adustment left still. And talking about adjustment, I also noticed 1/2 turn of the rod raised or lowered the shift peg a whopping 1/2", so no way anybody would ever need to adjust the thing even 1 turn. With the cut at the specified notch, there're way too many threads showing, and less inside the rod, making the entire appendage not that robust IMO, but enough, I guess. My approach was a lot better, with more threads inside the rod, and still way more adjustment than needed, but not that many threads showing. I left the top boot not showing any threads (but there're like 5 above it), since I wouldn't use that to adjust; just the bottom rod, which results in not having to move the sensor at all. The pics below will convince you there's no need to cut at the middle notch. I'd gladly exchange my cut rod for a full one, but it's perfectly acceptable now. Finally, tucked the wiring out of view behind the sensor, removed the useless blue tape, routed the wire thru the bracket, put a second stress-relief zip-tie on an unused hole behind the bracket, and hooked the connectors under the rubber boot, completely out of sight. an OEM job. He he. Hope this helps gang.

ind

Hi there,

Apologies for the likely silly question. But looking to do the oem quick shifter upgrade to my 2016. Am I right in thinking they’re the same part all the way up to 2020?

Thanks

Lee