yeti
New Member
Posts: 1
Likes: 1
Registered: May 7, 2024 13:16:22 GMT -7
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Post by yeti on Oct 1, 2024 12:15:56 GMT -7
Hi team. I bought my first MT10 a few months ago and the cat had been removed and a very very average mid pipe put on with a nice arrow muffler. A friend and I did some fab work to clean up the mid pipe and get that looking tidy. The bike did have some weird behavior at low RPM so I got it tuned. Wow what a difference, so nice at partial throttle and getting out of the corners now. Only problem is when I throttle off at around 5-6 thou RPM it bangs and pops and flames like crazy like some fairly big bangs. The tuner said he tried everything he could on the dyno to stop it, changing timing and fueling all over the place and he couldn't stop it. I a bit concerned im going to damage the exhaust. I have hear somewhere that there is a feed to the exhaust from the airbox to help with emissions and that blocking this may stop it? If anyone could share any info or point me in the right direction to getting this problem solved it would be very appreciated. Cheers Ta, ![]()      |
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2wheeledprivilege
Junior Member
Posts: 64
Likes: 44
Registered: Jun 2, 2023 16:42:54 GMT -7
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Post by 2wheeledprivilege on Oct 2, 2024 6:29:09 GMT -7
Install AIS block off plates or plug the AIS air line that comes from the air box. Some people simply use a marble to plug the air line. Vcyclenut on youtube has a short video explaining what the AIS does and how it works, if you're unfamiliar. Pops and bangs aren't likely to damage the exhaust. My 23 has the AIS disabled in the tune but still pops some as I haven't blocked it off physically. Honestly, I have grown to like it a little. Your bike was popping before the tune and the exhaust but you weren't able to hear it due to the factory exhaust muffling the sound and the factory cutting the fuel during deceleration. The bangs are a result of unburnt fuel entering the exhaust on decel mixed with fresh air from AIS and residual heat, resulting in combustion in the exhaust. Most tunes eliminate the deceleration fuel cut for a smoother ride and response, thus allowing the fresh air in.
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Post by willl84 on Oct 2, 2024 9:22:04 GMT -7
Hi team. I bought my first MT10 a few months ago and the cat had been removed and a very very average mid pipe put on with a nice arrow muffler. A friend and I did some fab work to clean up the mid pipe and get that looking tidy. The bike did have some weird behavior at low RPM so I got it tuned. Wow what a difference, so nice at partial throttle and getting out of the corners now. Only problem is when I throttle off at around 5-6 thou RPM it bangs and pops and flames like crazy like some fairly big bangs. The tuner said he tried everything he could on the dyno to stop it, changing timing and fueling all over the place and he couldn't stop it. I a bit concerned im going to damage the exhaust. I have hear somewhere that there is a feed to the exhaust from the airbox to help with emissions and that blocking this may stop it? If anyone could share any info or point me in the right direction to getting this problem solved it would be very appreciated. Cheers Ta, ![]() There's a hose going to the airbox that connects to the PAIR valve that's on top of the valve cover. You can get block-off plates from someone like Graves and remove the system (and maybe need a dummy plug to avoid a CEL), or you can insert a marble into the hose as tons of people have done. Alternatively you could have whoever tuned it just disable the system altogether. Most do by default, kinda strange that yours is still enabled. 2WDW, for example, disables it by default on their tunes so you don't have to do any fiddling with the system or block off plates. I did block-off plates anyways just to get the system out of the way for the future for valve inspections and such. |
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871jz
Full Member
Posts: 118
Likes: 38
Registered: May 1, 2024 6:51:14 GMT -7
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Post by 871jz on Oct 2, 2024 11:41:12 GMT -7
Very surprised to hear that your tuner didn't understand why your bike was popping and banging (due to the AIS system), and was trying everything to tune it out. This is very basic knowledge that any tuner would absolutely already be aware of. Nearly, if not all, modern motorcycles have a PAIR/AIS system that creates pops and bangs on deceleration when not removed/blocked/disabled. It should have been blocked prior to tuning just to eliminate the potential for inaccurate air/fuel readings.
On the 2022+ MT-10's, the AIS solenoid must remain plugged into the bike's harness in order to retain cruise control functionality. Same with the exhaust servo motor and oxygen sensors. To eliminate the pops and bangs, the AIS must be blocked. You can block the feed hose going from the airbox to the AIS solenoid using a marble, or you can install blockoff plates on the valve cover.
Simply disabling the AIS system via a flash will not eliminate the pops and bangs on 2022 and newer MT-10's (as it did with the previous generation) because the AIS solenoid defaults to the open position, not closed like it did on the previous models. The only thing disabling it via the tune/flash will do is prevent a trouble code and check engine light from appearing if you were to unplug the solenoid. Just keep in mind that you will lose cruise control if you unplug the solenoid.
If you don't like the pops and bangs, the easiest and most cost effective solution is to simply block the feed hose. Guys have been doing this on all types of different bikes for nearly two decades now. That said, the pops and bangs won't hurt anything if you choose not to mess with the AIS system at all. It's simply a matter of preference as to whether or not you like the additional noise created by leaving the system alone.
ETA: Just realized that your bike isn't a 2022+. You can simply disable the AIS solenoid via a tune/flash and the solenoid will default to the closed position, stopping the pops and bangs. You can still block the feed hose or install block off plates if you'd prefer to go that route, but you will need to disable it in the ECU if you unplug and remove the solenoid itself to prevent a code/light. No issues with losing cruise control functionality on the older bikes without it plugged in.
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