ugfish
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Registered: Dec 24, 2021 20:18:50 GMT -7
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Post by ugfish on May 9, 2024 11:57:56 GMT -7
2019 MT-10 with 9800 miiles. I don't have the full service history of the bike and was planning on bringing it to my local dealer to address the front brake recall. I also asked about getting fluids serviced and the most recent interval maintenance done.
Does the following price seem reasonable for this work? I imagine most of the cost is tied up in the spark plugs which is estimated at ~5 hours of the labor. I'm open to waiting for the 12k interval to do spark plugs as I'm not having any issues that would be related.
Costs are breaking out to the following:
6.6 hours of labor = $1050 ($159/hr)
Spark Plugs = $56
Oil = $78
Brake Fluid = $10
Coolant = $27
Total = ~$1300
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ugfish
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Posts: 10
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Post by ugfish on May 9, 2024 12:14:55 GMT -7
The dealer followed up and said if I wait on the spark plugs and 8k interval stuff, the fluids would be ~$600 for brakes, coolant, oil.
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Post by mindcrime79 on May 9, 2024 20:40:08 GMT -7
You should probably find another dealer and or learn to do this basic stuff on your own. You'd be $2000 richer and probably do better work.
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Post by RedAndBlack on May 9, 2024 23:16:24 GMT -7
Definitely high but not surprising for dealer.
My track bike is in for similar service right now. My mechanic is fixing an oil leak and doing my valves but figured he can do the coolant and spark plugs and he's charging me half of what you're being charged.
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Post by parthz8 on May 10, 2024 2:45:31 GMT -7
All stuff mentioned above can be performed at home-garage.
I prefer to get Spark Plugs changed by dealer because its tiring and work is performed in dense area. If you not changing spark plugs often it takes lot of time and effort (possible to even damage ignition coil since they are PITA to remove..) Once you remove old spark plugs even if they are not damaged or bad, its better to change them since you already spend time reaching them...
Another work you can get from dealer is brake fluid flush and replace. This can be easily done at home-garage, if you are comfortable. Note that brake fluid are hygroscopic and notorious in damaging paint, plastic, etc.
Main advantage of getting brake fluid changed at dealer: once fluid is proper flushed and replaced, dealer has to test ABS Modulator by YDT (Yamaha Diagnostic tool) to make sure brake system is working properly.
Check condition of coolant, any scaling present in radiator, to decide if flushing is required with radiator cleaner and distilled water. If you change coolant color, you must also flush. This can also be performed at home-garage. Just make sure to remove air from coolant system.
Oil and filter change specially on MT-10s are super easy.
If you are doing it first time, refer Service and Owners Manual. You need proper procedure, tools and torque wrench and correct replacement parts.
Look at it this way: Money $$ you save on labor and dealer part price, invest on tools. With experience and proper tools you can perform it yourself better than any shop out there.
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Post by willl84 on May 10, 2024 3:57:43 GMT -7
Main advantage of getting brake fluid changed at dealer: once fluid is proper flushed and replaced, dealer has to test ABS Modulator by YDT (Yamaha Diagnostic tool) to make sure brake system is working properly. Wait what? That's news. I've replaced my lines and flushed fluid several times and never had to reset the ABS module. Just bleed it properly and you're done. All that is pretty easy to do but the pricing seems about right honestly. I just dd plugs over the winter and it was kind of a PITA but not horrible - the plugs also cost me $45 I think. The coolant is the new blue European stuff. Oil for $78? I'm assuming that includes the filter and labor. You could have them do the plugs and do everything else yourself if you're comfortable. Brake fluid is easy - use the standard method - pump, hold, crack the bleeder, tighten bleeder, repeat. Coolant is easy - pull the radiator cap and pop the drain plug. Let it drain. Put the drain plug back. Fill it with new blue stuff and run it to burp the system. Don't forget the reservoir tank as well. Pro tip - Put some tin foil around the header pipe under the oil filter so oil doesn't get all over the pipe and then smoke like crazy when you fire up the bike. With all that being said though if you've never done any of this stuff it might be best to let them do it. The oil change you can still do yourself though, that's the easiest part. |
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ugfish
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Registered: Dec 24, 2021 20:18:50 GMT -7
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Post by ugfish on May 10, 2024 11:59:43 GMT -7
Appreciate all the replies. I've done oil, brakes, and coolant on previous supermotos that I've had. They weren't anywhere near as complex of a bike and no ABS to worry about.
I always disliked doing brake fluid and feel that the vacuums that shops have do a better job.
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Post by parthz8 on May 11, 2024 1:35:03 GMT -7
Main advantage of getting brake fluid changed at dealer: once fluid is proper flushed and replaced, dealer has to test ABS Modulator by YDT (Yamaha Diagnostic tool) to make sure brake system is working properly. Wait what? That's news. I've replaced my lines and flushed fluid several times and never had to reset the ABS module. Just bleed it properly and you're done. All that is pretty easy to do but the pricing seems about right honestly. I just dd plugs over the winter and it was kind of a PITA but not horrible - the plugs also cost me $45 I think. The coolant is the new blue European stuff. Oil for $78? I'm assuming that includes the filter and labor. You could have them do the plugs and do everything else yourself if you're comfortable. Brake fluid is easy - use the standard method - pump, hold, crack the bleeder, tighten bleeder, repeat. Coolant is easy - pull the radiator cap and pop the drain plug. Let it drain. Put the drain plug back. Fill it with new blue stuff and run it to burp the system. Don't forget the reservoir tank as well. Pro tip - Put some tin foil around the header pipe under the oil filter so oil doesn't get all over the pipe and then smoke like crazy when you fire up the bike. With all that being said though if you've never done any of this stuff it might be best to let them do it. The oil change you can still do yourself though, that's the easiest part. I have also done brake work on my R1M several times without YDT ABS Modulator test, its just a YDT test (with pulses and automatically brake actuation) which make sure ABS and braking system is working fine after any brake related work. Optional and part of brake fluid service from agency. One tip Yamaha agency showed me while changing spark plugs on both Gen-1 MT-10 and Gen-2 MT-10 SP: coated spark plug thread with one drop of fresh engine oil! I was against it since NGK says not to use any lube or grease on spark plugs but went ahead keeping in mind these mechanics are actual world experienced... 100% on tin/aluminium foil, it works perfect without any mess... during Oil change. |
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Post by parthz8 on May 11, 2024 1:43:58 GMT -7
Some Useful Torque Values during Service:
Engine Oil Drain bolt: 23 N.m (17 lb.ft)
Oil Filter: 17 N.m (13 lb.ft)
Spark Plug New: 18 N.m (13 lb.ft)
Axle Nut (after adjusting Chain Slack): Yamaha Says 190 N.m (140 lb.ft), while using aftermarket chain adjuster: 100 N.m (73 lb.ft) refer manual.
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ugfish
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Post by ugfish on May 14, 2024 6:22:52 GMT -7
Opting to do the oil and coolant myself. Still not sure on the brakes, but the bike still stops strong, so I'll get to this at a later point  |
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nokz
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Registered: Jul 14, 2021 8:57:58 GMT -7
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Post by nokz on May 14, 2024 8:33:33 GMT -7
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Post by willl84 on May 14, 2024 9:38:38 GMT -7
Yea I did my plugs over the winter. It was a little tricky but nothing too bad.
Brake fluid should be changed every 2 years according to the manual. I seldom used to until I went to change it once and it was starting to gel up and get nasty (not on the MT). It's every 2 years for me now, especially since it's so damn easy to do.
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vulcanator
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Post by vulcanator on May 19, 2024 10:02:31 GMT -7
OP, what is the front brake recall you refer to? I have a 2019 model and have received any notification from Yamaha.
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vulcanator
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Post by vulcanator on May 19, 2024 10:08:07 GMT -7
I also share the sentiment of other poster's to this thread regarding the maintenance. Oil, coolant, brakes are easy to do on this bike. The spark plugs can be fiddly due to the confined space, and the removal of the AIS system. I took this on when I had the ECU re-flashed after a link pipe install and decat. The plugs were the worst part of this job. The only upcoming job I'm somewhat dreading is the valve inspection. I'm hoping the OEM shop manual will help me out on this.
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