Base on
tigershark's thread pad replacement DIY, I changed my front and rear brake pads. Here is a pictorial how to. I've also included the factory manual pages for the job as well as ft/lbs conversion to in/lbs. Please read all the way through this and don't "wing it" unless you've done this before.
This is NOT a hard project (especially the front pads). But, do not attempt anything DYI with your brakes unless you are 100% comfortable with wrenching. Your brakes are your life so don't bite off more than you can chew. *****there I got my disclaimer out of the way*****
NOTE: YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE FRONT OR REAR CALIPERS TO COMPLETE THIS JOB (see factory manual)I recommend that you use a rear wheel lift for the bike, but it would not be necessary to do this project.
******PARTS******
What you will need in parts: (I used EBC Double-H Sintered pad but there are other choices) Part numbers are shown. You will need 2 sets for front and 1 set for rear.
******TOOLS******
What you will need for tools:
1. 5mm allen key
2. needle nose pliers
3. flat head screw driver
4. 12mm socket
5. 1/4" torque wrench
6. blue #42 loctite
7. white lithium grease
******FRONT BRAKES******
These are so easy to change that anyone can do it with a set of needle nose pliers.
This process is repeated for both sides.
Step One: Remove the two hair pin cotter pins holding the brake pad pin with needle nose pliers. Save these and watch they are small and can get lost easily.
Step Two: Slide brake pad pin out and remove brake pad spring.
Step Three: Remove pads. They will just slide out.
Step Four: Insert new pads
Step Five: Place pad retention spring back into caliper and make sure it goes in the same way (arrow on spring will point direction) Also you can see the manual photos below for reference.
Step Six: Very lightly use the white lithium grease on the brake pad pin and re-insert through caliper, front pad, compressed spring, back pad and caliper. You can wiggle the pads around from the back if needed.
Step Seven: Re-insert the two hair pin cotter pins in the brake pad pin holes.
Step Eight: Pump the front brake handle until you feel resistance on the front pads
******DONE******
******REAR BRAKE******
This one is a little more difficult as it requires more than needle nose pliers
Step One: Remove the cap screw with a flat head screw driver and save. It is small so keep it in sight.
Step Two: Use 5mm allen head key to remove the brake pin. As soon as you remove the pin the back pad will fall out.
Step Three: Use 12mm socket to remove the lower rear screw that holds the caliper on. You do not need to take it out just free the caliper up to rotate it.
Step Four: Lift caliper up slightly to remove the rear pad. You are removing tension from the rear pad spring (see manual photo below).
Now you will have the following:
Step Five: Remove the Shim and Insulator (see manual photo below) from old pads and reinstall them on new pads in the order than they came off.
Step Six: Re-Install the front rear brake pad (you will feel downward tension from pad spring when you push caliper down) and then re-tighten the rear lower caliper bolt to 16 ft/lbs torque (per factory manual below and see in/lbs conversion for 1/4" torque wrench)
Step Seven: Re-Install rear brake pad (you will feel upward tension from pad spring)
Step Eight: Lightly use the white lithium grease on caliper pin, re-install caliper pin using loctite and torque down to 12 ft/lbs (per factory manual below and see in/lbs conversion for 1/4" torque wrench)
Step Nine: Re-Install caliper pin cap screw to 1.8 ft/lbs (per factory manual). *hand tight*
Step Ten: Pump the rear brake pedal until you feel resistance on the rear pads
******DONE******
******BED-IN PADS******
Now you will need to "bed-in" your pads. Using tigershark's recommended method, do the following:
1. Get to 60 mph and then slow down quickly to 30 mph three+ times using the front brakes until you feel a "bite" and the ABS start to kick in.
2. Get to 60 mph and then slow down quickly to 30 mph three+ times using the rear brakes until you feel a "bite" and ABS starts to kick in.
or
Drive around normal until the brakes "bed-in". BUT....your brakes will not be 100% effective until they "bed-in".
FACTORY MANUAL PICTURES AND TORQUE CONVERSION SPECS
Wrench on.........
