squiresca
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Posts: 56
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Registered: Apr 8, 2023 17:22:56 GMT -7
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Post by squiresca on Apr 8, 2023 17:32:59 GMT -7
Been lurking here for awhile, and just had my ECU flashed by Chris up at Moore Mafia. He's flashed my last 7 or 8 bikes, always get great results.
I ordered the Leo Vince decat link pipe and while I am waiting on that, I figured I would get my ECU flashed for it, as Chris has a map for that exact setup. I had the ECU flashed once with the stock setup, to get rid of all the restrictions and limiters in there.
The first time I trailered the bike up, no issues. This time I took the ECU out and drove the car up. He flashed it with the new decat map, no errors, all seemed good. He did say that on these 2022+ bikes, just removing the ECU throws all sorts of codes that will have to be cleared. Even if you don't flash it, just unplugging it will put codes in there and you can[t delete them from the dash. So I bought the odb scanner tool and the adapter for that red Euro5 plug.
Got home, installed the ECU, turned the key on, dash fired up and looked fine. But I couldn't get into the settings or change my ride mode, which is typical when you have error codes in there. You sort of get locked out of things while those codes are stored.
I plugged in the tool and it can read the codes, but it can't erase them. I went to the autoparts store and got a better scanner took, an Innova 5210, and it too could read all 16 codes, but says it could not erase them. I updated the firmware on it, and again, it can easily read the codes, but when you tell it to erase them, it says it could not erase them.
The dash comes on, the bike will crank and turn over but it will not start. I pulled the battery hoping it would reset the ECU, but it only reset the clock. The error codes are persistent and must be stored in some of the memory not impacted by pulling the battery.
Right now I have a 1 month old, $16k paperweight. Can anyone offer any ideas on how to clear engine codes on this new model? I would imagine that anyone that pulled their ECU on the 2023 model to send it away for a flash, would encounter this issue?
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Post by RedAndBlack on Apr 8, 2023 18:44:35 GMT -7
That sounds more like a problem with the ECU flash rather than your code readers. You should definitely hit up the flash company
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squiresca
Junior Member
Posts: 56
Likes: 34
Registered: Apr 8, 2023 17:22:56 GMT -7
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Post by squiresca on Apr 8, 2023 19:08:37 GMT -7
Yeah, waiting to hear back.
My research shows that the problem stems from the new ECU being powered up on a workbench, outside of the bike... You power it up to flash it with the Woolich software, and what happens is the ECU doesn't see any of the sensors it would normally see on the canbus network. All of those codes get stored in flash memory, that doesn't get wiped with a normal ECU reset or pulling the battery, etc...
You have to use a scanner or dealer tool to erase them, but neither of mine do, including the one that he sells for this purpose...
I don't know what to think. I have had 34 bikes now, and tuned them all. I tune my triumphs myself with TuneECU and a bluetooth ODB adapter. This tuner has done many of my bike recently, and never had any issues and has a stellar reputation. He has said that this new MT-10, the new Euro5 model, has seemed more finicky than previous models...
Sucks to have to load the bike on a trailer and take a day off work and drive 200 miles round trip and hope that he can reflash it in the bike and clear the fault codes with the Woolich software... I don't want to take it to the dealer and have them realize that I flashed it and void that part of my warranty...
I really am in a pickle here, never had this happen before. But my guess is that they will keep making it harder and harder to fiddle with our bikes and this kinda crap will become the norm....
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Post by mt10orc on Apr 9, 2023 7:26:56 GMT -7
Wish I had an answer for ya, hope it gets resolved by Moore Mafia.
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squiresca
Junior Member
Posts: 56
Likes: 34
Registered: Apr 8, 2023 17:22:56 GMT -7
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Post by squiresca on Apr 9, 2023 7:37:09 GMT -7
Well, here is an interesting update. After my two handheld scanners failed to reset, I went and grabbed by bluetooth ODB tool that I use to flash and tune my Triumphs and Aprilia... Plugged that into the dongle that goes to the red plug, and then bought the $5 Torque Pro app on my Android phone.
Connected, pulled codes, cleared them and it worked! Cycled the key a few times and the bike fired up.
Now, one thing I noticed is that there are no codes in there now, but, the dash doesn't let me go into the settings and I cannot change ride modes... I seem to recall my 2022 R1 did that when I put it on the dyno... It saw the back wheel turning but the front not, and it kicked an ABS code or something, and I had to just ride the bike for like 20 minutes for everything to recalibrate or whatever... then I turned it off, restarted it, and then I could change ride modes and get in and set the clock, etc...
Do you think that is what's going on here? The bike is running now, so there is that. But I can't set the clock or change ride modes, power mode, etc...
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Post by mt10orc on Apr 9, 2023 9:08:48 GMT -7
Your assessment sounds plausible. Run with it and see if it works.
Glad you were able to get it running and clear your codes. I would have been going nuts if that happened to me.
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squiresca
Junior Member
Posts: 56
Likes: 34
Registered: Apr 8, 2023 17:22:56 GMT -7
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Post by squiresca on Apr 9, 2023 9:32:07 GMT -7
Your assessment sounds plausible. Run with it and see if it works. Glad you were able to get it running and clear your codes. I would have been going nuts if that happened to me. Dude, I was going insane... My OCD kicks in and I was up half the night... I think I need to wait for the pipe to get here tomorrow, fit it up and then go ride it and I think once the ECU sees both wheel speed sensors working and in synch and whatever else it checks for, it will clear itself... Fingers crossed, I will report back tomorrow night, thanks! |
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Post by mt10orc on Apr 9, 2023 9:50:17 GMT -7
Your assessment sounds plausible. Run with it and see if it works. Glad you were able to get it running and clear your codes. I would have been going nuts if that happened to me. Dude, I was going insane... My OCD kicks in and I was up half the night... I think I need to wait for the pipe to get here tomorrow, fit it up and then go ride it and I think once the ECU sees both wheel speed sensors working and in synch and whatever else it checks for, it will clear itself... Fingers crossed, I will report back tomorrow night, thanks! LOL, I feel ya there man. Your plan sounds good. Keep us in the loop. |
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squiresca
Junior Member
Posts: 56
Likes: 34
Registered: Apr 8, 2023 17:22:56 GMT -7
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Post by squiresca on Apr 10, 2023 10:51:21 GMT -7
Installed the pipe today, and when I started the bike, it allowed me to get into the dash settings, set the clock, access YRRC tables and switch between rider modes. I guess in all my fiddling, I power cycled the bike into submission?
Gonna go ride it later and see how it does.
One thing I noticed after the flash, is that if I push the starter button without the clutch pulled in, it cranks but won't fire. If I pull in the clutch, then it cranks and fires right up.
Was it always this way and I never noticed?
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Post by mt10orc on Apr 10, 2023 15:26:38 GMT -7
Installed the pipe today, and when I started the bike, it allowed me to get into the dash settings, set the clock, access YRRC tables and switch between rider modes. I guess in all my fiddling, I power cycled the bike into submission? Gonna go ride it later and see how it does. One thing I noticed after the flash, is that if I push the starter button without the clutch pulled in, it cranks but won't fire. If I pull in the clutch, then it cranks and fires right up. Was it always this way and I never noticed? That starting thing must be some new safety feature as I can fire up my bike in neutral. Have a 2020 MT. |
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maxxj
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Registered: Jul 7, 2022 7:44:49 GMT -7
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Post by maxxj on Apr 10, 2023 16:38:35 GMT -7
Kind of picking sides with the ECU flash here... I watch the Moore Mafia videos sometimes and it always bugs me when he tells people to buy the thing from his website to plug a code reader in so you can clear codes. 2WDW just clears the codes if you don't disconnect the battery before pulling the ECU, and they disable the AIS instead of telling you to install blockoffs.
Your crank-no-start thing sounds like the way some older bikes would crank but not fire with the kill switch off.
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Post by mt10orc on Apr 10, 2023 18:43:42 GMT -7
Kind of picking sides with the ECU flash here... I watch the Moore Mafia videos sometimes and it always bugs me when he tells people to buy the thing from his website to plug a code reader in so you can clear codes. 2WDW just clears the codes if you don't disconnect the battery before pulling the ECU, and they disable the AIS instead of telling you to install blockoffs. Your crank-no-start thing sounds like the way some older bikes would crank but not fire with the kill switch off. I don’t think I would ever pull my ECU without disconnecting the battery. I’m partial to 2WDW as well. Class act that outfit is. |
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Post by willl84 on Apr 11, 2023 4:00:24 GMT -7
Installed the pipe today, and when I started the bike, it allowed me to get into the dash settings, set the clock, access YRRC tables and switch between rider modes. I guess in all my fiddling, I power cycled the bike into submission? Gonna go ride it later and see how it does. One thing I noticed after the flash, is that if I push the starter button without the clutch pulled in, it cranks but won't fire. If I pull in the clutch, then it cranks and fires right up. Was it always this way and I never noticed? Yea that's strange. My 2019 I've never had to pull the clutch to start before or after the flash. Clutch in to start is a typical Suzuki thing |
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squiresca
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Registered: Apr 8, 2023 17:22:56 GMT -7
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Post by squiresca on Apr 11, 2023 4:59:39 GMT -7
It now fires up without pulling in the clutch. I like 2WDW, I talked to them when I had my Z900RS... I use Moore because he gets great results, and he's sorta close to me. He's tuned my Z900RS, ZX6R, ZX14R, R1, my MT-10 and a few of my friend's bikes. Always great results and a real chill guy to deal with. Not saying who is better, just had good experiences with him and he's close, so that helps.
I think part of it was me, not disconnecting the battery when I pulled the ECU. Or, when the ECU is powered up on the workbench, it won't be seeing any of the sensors...
My issue really, was that the two scanners I bought, for whatever reason didn't work on this bike. The 3rd scanner I tried, did the trick and deleted them and I was good to go. I don't think that was flash related, but maybe something with this newest 2023 model? 2022 was a redesign year and it got a new ECU and Euro5, etc... I dunno...
For the AIS block, I usually just toss a greased up marble into the hose and reconnect it to the airbox.
Bike sounds great!
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jmm0122
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Registered: Mar 15, 2022 15:14:41 GMT -7
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Post by jmm0122 on Apr 12, 2023 11:38:20 GMT -7
I won't make many comments about the person that flashed your bike, but they have a not so great reputation in the tuning community for flashing peoples bikes and creating issues. I honestly almost went with him when I first found his YouTube channel because he is rather entertaining. Any who my 2022 was flashed by 2WDW and you will get a ton of codes when you plug the ecu back in. No you can't clear them like Chris Moore says in his videos about R1's, I tried, it doesn't let you. The only way to fix it is to ride the bike a few times with the CEL on. It's a bit nerve racking riding a brand new bike with it on knowing there are 16 codes but it doesn't hurt anything. They are basically not ready codes like you get on a car that is running without cats. Basically the computer needs to go X amount of miles or have X amount of power cycles to get everything back in check. I ended up going on two 10 or so min rides after getting mine flashed and the CEL went off and everything is fine now. Also I have always been able to start my bike without the clutch being pulled in. If you happen to have installed after market levers check to make sure you put the switch piece in the clutch side.
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squiresca
Junior Member
Posts: 56
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Registered: Apr 8, 2023 17:22:56 GMT -7
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Post by squiresca on Apr 12, 2023 11:50:59 GMT -7
I won't make many comments about the person that flashed your bike, but they have a not so great reputation in the tuning community for flashing peoples bikes and creating issues. I honestly almost went with him when I first found his YouTube channel because he is rather entertaining. Any who my 2022 was flashed by 2WDW and you will get a ton of codes when you plug the ecu back in. No you can't clear them like Chris Moore says in his videos about R1's, I tried, it doesn't let you. The only way to fix it is to ride the bike a few times with the CEL on. It's a bit nerve racking riding a brand new bike with it on knowing there are 16 codes but it doesn't hurt anything. They are basically not ready codes like you get on a car that is running without cats. Basically the computer needs to go X amount of miles or have X amount of power cycles to get everything back in check. I ended up going on two 10 or so min rides after getting mine flashed and the CEL went off and everything is fine now. Also I have always been able to start my bike without the clutch being pulled in. If you happen to have installed after market levers check to make sure you put the switch piece in the clutch side. I don't know man, I have had Chris tune several of my bikes, and a ton of my friends have used him. Folks like Brock seem to respect his work... The guy lives bikes. He is a multi world record holding drag racer and tuner and certainly seems to know his stuff. I know, everyone has "their guy" that is the best in their mind... Me personally, I have used many tuners over the years. Huey from Marietta Motorsports, a great tuner that wrenched on AMA and now MotoAmerica bikes, as well as being flown over to the Isle of Man TT to wrench on a team, and the Macau GP... I use Chris a lot. I have used BrenTune... I used to have a former Ducati Factory World SBK mechanic wrench on my Ducs... he was Doug Polen's top mechanic the years Doug won the world titles... I am just saying, at this point in my 30 year riding career, I think I have gotten decent at spotting the pro's from the wannabe's. I also know that 2WDW has a stellar reputation, and if he was driving distance, I might very well use him. Chris is a 2 hour drive, but it's easily doable to just take the bike or ECU up there. I was finally able to clear the fault codes, using the bluetooth scanner and Torque Pro app. For some reason, the Yamaha preferred that method, worked like a champ. Now the bike is starting with clutch in or out. I thought that the pattern was it needing the clutch pulled in, but that may have been error on my part. Maybe just part of getting all the faults and bugs out of there? Not sure, but it runs like an absolute champ now... |
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Post by mt10orc on Apr 12, 2023 14:39:31 GMT -7
Not sure, but it runs like an absolute champ now... That is all that matters man. Enjoy the ride. |
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Post by willl84 on Apr 13, 2023 3:47:48 GMT -7
Something about Chris just comes across strange in his videos. mean actually setting up a pops and bangs tune that's known to destroy exhaust valves is dumb honestly. Plus I can't take anyone seriously that runs a bike on the dyno and then SHUTS THE BIKE OFF while the roller is still rolling at ~100MPH. That's how you cook a trans on motorcycles. The engine oil pump also lubes the trans. Engine not running = no oil pumped into the transmission shafts and gears.
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squiresca
Junior Member
Posts: 56
Likes: 34
Registered: Apr 8, 2023 17:22:56 GMT -7
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Post by squiresca on Apr 13, 2023 5:39:58 GMT -7
Something about Chris just comes across strange in his videos. mean actually setting up a pops and bangs tune that's known to destroy exhaust valves is dumb honestly. Plus I can't take anyone seriously that runs a bike on the dyno and then SHUTS THE BIKE OFF while the roller is still rolling at ~100MPH. That's how you cook a trans on motorcycles. The engine oil pump also lubes the trans. Engine not running = no oil pumped into the transmission shafts and gears. I would imagine that most of the time the pops and bangs tune is on bikes with aftermarket exhaust, that don't have cats or a valve. That's what he told me when I asked him about it last year... |
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Post by willl84 on Apr 13, 2023 10:45:21 GMT -7
Something about Chris just comes across strange in his videos. mean actually setting up a pops and bangs tune that's known to destroy exhaust valves is dumb honestly. Plus I can't take anyone seriously that runs a bike on the dyno and then SHUTS THE BIKE OFF while the roller is still rolling at ~100MPH. That's how you cook a trans on motorcycles. The engine oil pump also lubes the trans. Engine not running = no oil pumped into the transmission shafts and gears. I would imagine that most of the time the pops and bangs tune is on bikes with aftermarket exhaust, that don't have cats or a valve. That's what he told me when I asked him about it last year... Not the valves in the exhaust, but the actual exhaust valves in the cylinder head. www.motorhowto.com/car-exhaust-burble-crackle-pop-tunes-bad/ |
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