mrhix
Full Member
Posts: 119
Likes: 58
Registered: Sept 11, 2016 19:24:17 GMT -7
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Post by mrhix on Dec 8, 2016 15:23:39 GMT -7
So something needed to be done:   Just a teaser till I get a chance to install. Cheers, MrHix |
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Post by 0002s on Dec 9, 2016 17:50:15 GMT -7
Look interesting. Can't wait to see the results.
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mat
Junior Member
I liked my old HD bike, but I didn't know shit!
Posts: 81
Likes: 54
Registered: Oct 15, 2016 11:15:09 GMT -7
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Post by mat on Dec 10, 2016 12:46:18 GMT -7
Looks great! Looking forward to see it on the MT!
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mrhix
Full Member
Posts: 119
Likes: 58
Registered: Sept 11, 2016 19:24:17 GMT -7
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Post by mrhix on Dec 10, 2016 12:55:14 GMT -7
Tomorrow (Sunday) is supposed to be a balmy 40 degrees F. Maybe then . . . .
Cheers,
MrHix
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mrhix
Full Member
Posts: 119
Likes: 58
Registered: Sept 11, 2016 19:24:17 GMT -7
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Post by mrhix on Dec 11, 2016 11:23:43 GMT -7
  I think this is how it should be! Cerakoat Satin Black 2000 degree F air dry. Cheers, MrHix |
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mrhix
Full Member
Posts: 119
Likes: 58
Registered: Sept 11, 2016 19:24:17 GMT -7
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Post by mrhix on Dec 12, 2016 11:13:01 GMT -7
Taking off the pipes and replacing
This is what I did, you can use it as a guide but may find better ways of doing it.
1. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the oil cooler and the bolt that holds the bottom stay. The loose cooler will give you enough room to remove the flange nuts and the headers. You can use a bungee strap to keep it near or against the front tire.
2. Remove the silencer & CAT covers, silencer, EXUP cables, and O2 sensors. I had enough wire to remove the sensors without unplugging the sensors. If you have or are getting a reflash, check to see whether you will need the O2 sensors.
3. Remove the 8 header flange nuts. I used a ratchet with 3” and 6” extensions, a ball-end hex wrench, and a universal joint. Use something to support the headers as you remove the bolts from the CAT.
4. Remove the bolts holding the CAT and lower the headers & CAT as a unit. I pulled and rotated the header and CAT from the left side of the bike and it came out OK.
Installation is almost the reverse, but I blocked the CAT up and got the header attached first. Bubble wrap was used around the oil cooler to help prevent scratches. There was much swearing trying to get the header nuts on the studs with my fat fingers/hands, but they made it.
Cheers,
MrHix
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Post by tigershark on Dec 12, 2016 18:41:28 GMT -7
Very good sir. I will most likely get just the header pipes ceramic coated. Approximately three times the cost of paint, but once it's done, it should be a lifetime upgrade. The titanium R1 headers were tempting, but they quickly discolor from heat. I don't see the plus side of that. I hope your ceramkote holds up. It looks great so far. All I need to do is decide on color. I'm leaning towards glacial black.
Thanks for posting your procedure.
Cheers!
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Post by slv on Dec 15, 2016 6:27:18 GMT -7
That looks great. The black should have been there from the factory. That Cerakoat is an excellent product. It looks like you did an excellent job.
One lesson-learned for those planning to do this.
This type of ceramic paint (Cerakoat, VHT, others) releases a LOT of loose ceramic dust in the spray booth. Plus, the evaporative carrier is wickedly unhealthy. Way more than regular paint and on par with lacquer. Probably worse when you add the loose particles. PLEASE, at least wear a respirator. When spraying this stuff. Better yet, do it in a proper paint booth. Not only are these particles loose in the air for a bad lung day, they get all over everything.
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mrhix
Full Member
Posts: 119
Likes: 58
Registered: Sept 11, 2016 19:24:17 GMT -7
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Post by mrhix on Dec 15, 2016 7:20:34 GMT -7
That looks great. The black should have been there from the factory. That Cerakoat is an excellent product. It looks like you did an excellent job. One lesson-learned for those planning to do this. This type of ceramic paint (Cerakoat, VHT, others) releases a LOT of loose ceramic dust in the spray booth. Plus, the evaporative carrier is wickedly unhealthy. Way more than regular paint and on par with lacquer. Probably worse when you add the loose particles. PLEASE, at least wear a respirator. When spraying this stuff. Better yet, do it in a proper paint booth. Not only are these particles loose in the air for a bad lung day, they get all over everything. Sorry, I forgot to add that I had the pipes done at a local powdercoat company. They did the proper cleaning & prep and have all of the safety equipment. Cost was $270 USD. Cheers, MrHix |
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