Hey everybody,
Just finished installing a new Penske shock in my 2018 MT-10, and thought I'd contribute some pictures to help ease the stock shock removal process for others. This isn't meant to be a step-by-step guide- it's more of an addendum to the already available information.
Stoltec's Support page helped tremendously, and STG's R1 shock video also helped some. Check these out first.
Links:
Some notes I feel are important.
My bike is basically stock, so the catalytic converter & exup valve are still in place. They can stay in place, though it doesn't seem like it. Be patient, things will come out without taking the exhaust off or having to he-man anything.
The upper shock linkage bushing. I've read a couple threads where people were wondering "how the heck does this come out?!" Now, less is more would be my suggestion in terms of force required to slide that bushing out. It comes out the LEFT side of the bike. If you get a light up inside the bolt hole on the right side, you can see where the bushing butts up against the inside of the frame. From the right side, take your drift or other tool and catch the edge of the bushing and gently tap it out enough so it can be slid out from the left. After I was done, I imagined if a person had one of those expanding anchors that are used in concrete (google redhead anchor), they could slip that in from the left side, snug it up, and pull it out without having to beat on anything and risk damaging bearings. Just gotta be sure you can get it the anchor out when you're done. Or, from the left side, slide a 90 degree pick in and catch the end of the bushing, then pull it out. Or another thought, one of those expanding rubber nut things that they use to secure sportbike windshields might work to hold the bushing from the center.
Ok next, getting that shock linkage free. Working from the left side of the bike, you want to rotate the linkage counter clockwise about 90 degrees. This is a PITA. I had the whole shock unbolted, wiggling it around, moving the swingarm up, down all around and I starting wondering if the only way was to remove the exhaust. Ironically, once I stopped fighting it, took ONE FINGER and pushed up on the linkage right side it rotated up no problem and came right out.
Clean, lube, and anti-seize the linkage. I cannot imagine someone wanting to get down into these parts as a scheduled maintenance item on its own. Do it now, while its apart. I was going to skip this, but after watching STG's video where Brian suggests lubing the bearings because the factory leaves things a bit too dry, I went for it. Glad I did, because one of the bolts was already really corroded at only 5000 miles on the bike. Sanded it clean, coated all the bolts it in anti-seize, cleaned all the grit and grime off the linkage, checked the bushings for burrs or other damage, put some clean grease up on the needle bearings, and reassembled. Not hard, didn't take long. Don't skip this would be my advice.
I think I covered most of the tricky bits. Now on with the pictures.
pic00 Right-side-view-Upper-linkage-bushing-area
01-Right-side-view-Brass-Drift-Removing-upper-linkage-bushing-GENTLY
02-Left-side-view-upper-linkage-bushing-partially-out
03-Left-side-view-Shock-Linkage-Loose
04-Left-side-view-swingarm-position-at-time-of-successful-linkage-rotation
05-Left-side-view-shock-linkage-rotated-CCW-ready-to-remove
06-Left-side-view-shock-linkage-coming-out
07-Shock-linkage-out
08-Left-side-view-Pulling-upper-shock-bolt-past-wires
09-Upper-shock-bolt-with-left-side-spacer
10-Left-side-view-stock-shock-free-rotated
11-Left-side-view-stock-shock-coming-out
Brass-Drift
