Post by RedAndBlack on Sept 2, 2022 22:10:13 GMT -7
I don't know about that part but to me the rear wheel torque value was too high. I think it's something like 140 ft lb. I torque it down at 97 which is the same as my track bike and around where all my other bikes have been. No issues.
I disassembled my oem rearsets and when re installing I see the torque spec for the foot shift lever pivot bolt is 20 ft lbs according to the book...
Is this accurate?!!! When tightened to 20 I can't move the shifter ... It's obviously too tight.
Anyone have advice or experience with this? and... Yes the washers are in the correct location...
That is the right torque setting for that. Did you grease everything to spec. If you used loctite per recommendations maybe it caused an issue? Maybe fire it up and see if the tranny is in a seized position, that should free it up if it is.
Lock tite on threads, greased on pivot and washer as per manual... Had to back it off a bit after torquing to spec to get any movement.
There's no way 20lbs can be correct.
It must be another overstatement by Yamaha. Like R n B said about the axle nut. Way overboard. I know I torque my axle nut to 90lbs on the MT AND R1, that is the suggested torque for my lighttech chain adjusters as well and never had any issues.
Play with it until it works correctly and jot down you torque setting for future reference.
Last Edit: Sept 3, 2022 22:49:31 GMT -7 by mt10orc
I take the lever off to get access to the sprocket cover for cleaning out the chain splooge and have done this probably 4 times since I got the bike. Each time I clean out the brass bushing in the lever and also clean the pivot bolt and washers, before regreasing them. I only ever hand-tighten the bolt so it is nicely snug, but there is plenty of free movement so I can't imagine more torque will bind it up. Has someone slipped in non-standard shims so they trap the lever? Should be a really skinny flat shim on the inside and a spring washer on the outside.