fzizzlemyshizzle10
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Posts: 19
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Registered: Sept 27, 2021 5:03:38 GMT -7
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Post by fzizzlemyshizzle10 on Apr 5, 2022 13:34:58 GMT -7
    Becareful when adjusting shift lever height, messed up my shifting when i replaced my shift lever and unintentionally changed the height of my shift lever. It worked fine for a couple hundred miles then suddenly i was unable to shift. I tried adjusting it myself according the shop manual spec at 10.78 and 10.86 inches but made no difference. Took it into the shop due to me thinking i might have bent a shift fork or some other damage in my transmission due to my highside accident a couple months ago which broke my stator case and shift lever. The tech checked it all out only found the shift linkage out of spec and adjusted it correctly. So when changing out your shift lever dont try removing the ball joint at the bottom of the linkage cause it’ll mess with the the height of the shift pedal. Which i didnt know til it was too late. So I posted these pics to give someone an idea how it is correctly at height after being adjusted by a pro. |
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Post by RedAndBlack on Apr 5, 2022 16:17:22 GMT -7
Great tip for sure. I experienced the same when changing out rearsets. Had to adjust the shift linkage until it was good again.
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Post by willl84 on Apr 5, 2022 18:25:20 GMT -7
Becareful when adjusting shift lever height, messed up my shifting when i replaced my shift lever and unintentionally changed the height of my shift lever. It worked fine for a couple hundred miles then suddenly i was unable to shift. I tried adjusting it myself according the shop manual spec at 10.78 and 10.86 inches but made no difference. Took it into the shop due to me thinking i might have bent a shift fork or some other damage in my transmission due to my highside accident a couple months ago which broke my stator case and shift lever. The tech checked it all out only found the shift linkage out of spec and adjusted it correctly. So when changing out your shift lever dont try removing the ball joint at the bottom of the linkage cause it’ll mess with the the height of the shift pedal. Which i didnt know til it was too late. So I posted these pics to give someone an idea how it is correctly at height after being adjusted by a pro. That doesn't make sense at all. It's adjustable to suit your foot position when riding. If they didn't want it adjusted they would make it solid lol. The only thing to set correctly is the top lever. There's a line on the shift shaft that is supposed to be aligned with the clamp opening of the arm which you can see in your second pic. I drilled out and tapped my shift lever on the opposite side of the pivot (there's a flat part in the casting - the R1 has this hole in the location) and moved my lower joint there for GP shift. I then adjusted the lever position to be comfortable for me. I haven't had any issues with it not shifting. |
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terrys
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Registered: Mar 1, 2021 0:48:28 GMT -7
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Post by terrys on Apr 5, 2022 19:01:51 GMT -7
I must be missing something here. The shift linkage is deliberately made adjustable so you can move the lever to suit your big or small feet; I have mine set reasonably low for that reason. I don't understand how adjusting the linkage changes anything that would stop you being able to change gear? Care to clarify?
I can definitely see that adjusting one ball joint in isolation from the other could cause the thread to come out of the ball at one end; the two balls use opposing threads so turning the rod either winds them both in or both out.
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fzizzlemyshizzle10
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Registered: Sept 27, 2021 5:03:38 GMT -7
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Post by fzizzlemyshizzle10 on Apr 5, 2022 20:05:46 GMT -7
I must be missing something here. The shift linkage is deliberately made adjustable so you can move the lever to suit your big or small feet; I have mine set reasonably low for that reason. I don't understand how adjusting the linkage changes anything that would stop you being able to change gear? Care to clarify? I can definitely see that adjusting one ball joint in isolation from the other could cause the thread to come out of the ball at one end; the two balls use opposing threads so turning the rod either winds them both in or both out. I thought the same especially since we did the same thing to buddy’s cb500 years ago with no issues. & i had no issues when i eyeballed it back to where it was originally and it rode fine for a couple hundred miles. Then out of nowhere i couldnt get out of 4th, 5th, and so on. It would only shift at engine braking above 5k RPM’s. I tried adjusting it myself by this time actually loosening the top and bottom nuts and twisting the shift linkage but with no success nomatter how high low or in the middle i positioned the shift lever. So i took it in thinking something in my tranny finnaly gave out from the highside due to impact. Maybe i just wasnt doing it right somewhere along the way but i just felt it was way above my experience at that point. The mech just said he adjusted the linkage and left me scratching me head lol |
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fzizzlemyshizzle10
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Posts: 19
Likes: 14
Registered: Sept 27, 2021 5:03:38 GMT -7
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Post by fzizzlemyshizzle10 on Apr 5, 2022 20:10:26 GMT -7
Becareful when adjusting shift lever height, messed up my shifting when i replaced my shift lever and unintentionally changed the height of my shift lever. It worked fine for a couple hundred miles then suddenly i was unable to shift. I tried adjusting it myself according the shop manual spec at 10.78 and 10.86 inches but made no difference. Took it into the shop due to me thinking i might have bent a shift fork or some other damage in my transmission due to my highside accident a couple months ago which broke my stator case and shift lever. The tech checked it all out only found the shift linkage out of spec and adjusted it correctly. So when changing out your shift lever dont try removing the ball joint at the bottom of the linkage cause it’ll mess with the the height of the shift pedal. Which i didnt know til it was too late. So I posted these pics to give someone an idea how it is correctly at height after being adjusted by a pro. That doesn't make sense at all. It's adjustable to suit your foot position when riding. If they didn't want it adjusted they would make it solid lol. The only thing to set correctly is the top lever. There's a line on the shift shaft that is supposed to be aligned with the clamp opening of the arm which you can see in your second pic. I drilled out and tapped my shift lever on the opposite side of the pivot (there's a flat part in the casting - the R1 has this hole in the location) and moved my lower joint there for GP shift. I then adjusted the lever position to be comfortable for me. I haven't had any issues with it not shifting. Same thing i thought but the mech said he just adjusted the shift linkage and left me confused. So maybe somewhere along me trying to adjust it which seemed pretty damn simple i wasnt doing it right? Didnt mess with anything else other than that and it was riding perfectly fine even after i unintentionally messed with it and eyeballed it back to its approximate position. |
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mt1021
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Registered: Feb 18, 2022 8:55:35 GMT -7
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Post by mt1021 on Apr 6, 2022 6:59:09 GMT -7
Becareful when adjusting shift lever height… Your tech got it to shift but definitely not due to the rod height. That only affect the height at which your toe connects to the shift lever boot allowing you to adjust to your liking. However if any part of the shift mechanism (rod, levers) is bent or making contact with the frame, engine or fixed parts of the bike, it can bind and the rod heigh will play in how much travel you have before binding. Not enough travel = no shifting. |
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Post by willl84 on Apr 6, 2022 7:23:07 GMT -7
Yea my guess is bent shift rod or something internal. There's a reason why RaceTorx makes these: racetorx.co.uk/product/rtx251/I bought a knockoff one for mine and other than the anodizing fading it's been great.  |
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Post by evitzee on Apr 6, 2022 15:04:39 GMT -7
The first year of the FZ-10 didn't have the QS standard, you had to put it on as an aftermarket purchase for about $200. I did that over four years ago and have never had a problem with it, or needed to adjust it. Not sure what the OP's problem was.
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fzizzlemyshizzle10
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Registered: Sept 27, 2021 5:03:38 GMT -7
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Post by fzizzlemyshizzle10 on Apr 7, 2022 10:30:24 GMT -7
Becareful when adjusting shift lever height… Your tech got it to shift but definitely not due to the rod height. That only affect the height at which your toe connects to the shift lever boot allowing you to adjust to your liking. However if any part of the shift mechanism (rod, levers) is bent or making contact with the frame, engine or fixed parts of the bike, it can bind and the rod heigh will play in how much travel you have before binding. Not enough travel = no shifting. On the receipt he noted “shift linkage height was adjusted” so i dont know what else he could have done |
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fzizzlemyshizzle10
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Registered: Sept 27, 2021 5:03:38 GMT -7
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Post by fzizzlemyshizzle10 on Apr 7, 2022 10:32:41 GMT -7
Yea my guess is bent shift rod or something internal. There's a reason why RaceTorx makes these: racetorx.co.uk/product/rtx251/I bought a knockoff one for mine and other than the anodizing fading it's been great. Thank you for sharing that link and that was my initial guess but he opened it up and found nothing wrong with the internals and noted on the receipt “shift linkage was adjusted” and only things replaced was the gaskets on the right side of the motor. |
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fzizzlemyshizzle10
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Posts: 19
Likes: 14
Registered: Sept 27, 2021 5:03:38 GMT -7
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Post by fzizzlemyshizzle10 on Apr 7, 2022 10:35:08 GMT -7
The first year of the FZ-10 didn't have the QS standard, you had to put it on as an aftermarket purchase for about $200. I did that over four years ago and have never had a problem with it, or needed to adjust it. Not sure what the OP's problem was. I need to do that i want the QS now, did you do it yourself? Mechanic noted on the receipt the “shift linkage height was adjusted” and only things replaced were the two gaskets on the right side of the motor to inspect the internals and found nothing wrong. Shifts like new now. |
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Post by willl84 on Apr 7, 2022 11:23:40 GMT -7
The first year of the FZ-10 didn't have the QS standard, you had to put it on as an aftermarket purchase for about $200. I did that over four years ago and have never had a problem with it, or needed to adjust it. Not sure what the OP's problem was. I need to do that i want the QS now, did you do it yourself? Mechanic noted on the receipt the “shift linkage height was adjusted” and only things replaced were the two gaskets on the right side of the motor to inspect the internals and found nothing wrong. Shifts like new now. The QS install is easy but if your dash doesn't have the "QS" icon showing then you need to get the ECU flashed to enable it. If you've already had the ECU flashed most likely it's enabled. You can get a Yamaha accessory kit or find someone selling their OEM QS unit. Or go aftermarket and get a QS/autoblip like the one I just installed on mine  |
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Post by evitzee on Apr 9, 2022 21:44:50 GMT -7
The first year of the FZ-10 didn't have the QS standard, you had to put it on as an aftermarket purchase for about $200. I did that over four years ago and have never had a problem with it, or needed to adjust it. Not sure what the OP's problem was. I need to do that i want the QS now, did you do it yourself? Mechanic noted on the receipt the “shift linkage height was adjusted” and only things replaced were the two gaskets on the right side of the motor to inspect the internals and found nothing wrong. Shifts like new now. It's easy to do, takes about 30 min, just follow the instructions. Once installed you have to enable the QS circuitry which is already in the stock ECU, the instructions show you how to do it. It's an easy install. |
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