Arashi 2.0 Rearsets... Don't bother, just buy OEM R1 Rearset

Just wanted to give some insite on these since there wasn't much when I ordered them.

I figured I'd give it a go and try the $140 Arashi 2.0 rearsets for the mt10. My feet would constantly drag when at the track so I needed something higher up but didn't want to spend $400+ for some rearsets.

When it all arrived it looked great. Took a few hours to get them installed and set up and that's when the flaws started showing.

To start off, you can't adjust the height of the brake lever lower due to their heim joint supplied being too long. You could however set the brake lever to be higher than the actual foot peg though (like that's of any use).

Next, the only way to get the brake lever lower is to rotate the rearset on the mounting base, but another problem arises. The master cylinder banjo contacts the frame and doesn't allow the rearset to be tightened down. You might be able to loosen the banjo and rotate it, then re-bleed the brakes, but I was installing stainless steel lines anyways so I didn't bother trying. Once I was able to rotate the rearset with the stainless lines one, the brake lever was in a comfortable spot.

I was not able to get the brake light switch to work. They supply a bracket that bolts to the backside of the brake lever which pulls on the spring of the brake light switch. The hardware for this bracket was too short and the wrong type. The threads going into the brake lever were also horribly cut. The bracket for the spring was about as stiff as a sheet of aluminum foil. The whole design is useless.

The right side rearset doesn't come with a heel guard for some reason. They supply an exhaust hanger which I suppose could count as a heel guard, but I run a belly exit exhaust like many other mt10 owners so I didn't install the exhaust hanger. This led to the heels of my boots rubbing the paint off of my swingarm.

The left hand side was good, no issues with the shifter. Ran the lever GP style and it worked fine.

The hardware supplied is junk, the head of 2 of the bolts going into my frame stripped out even though the bolt is stamped "10.9 grade".

There was a little flex in the rearsets when putting weight on them. I'm sure they would be fine for the average weekend cruiser, but I would definitely not take that risk since I track my bike.

Conclusion:

I just removed them after 2 weeks and installed OEM R1 rearsets. Night and day difference in quality. Set up took no time at all, everything adjusted perfect. Once I removed the Arashi rearsets I tried to move the brake lever by hand and it was stiff, it was probably dragging the rear brakes a little the whole time I had them installed.

The OEM R1 rearsets actually sit 1" lower than the Arashi rearsets in their lowest position which is far more comfortable especially for a MT10 with the upright bars.

Overall, don't waste your time or money. I spent $80 on the 2015+ R1 OEM rearsets with the master cylinder (you have to use the r1 master cylinder btw). You'll need to re-bleed the rear brake so grab some dot 4 brake fluid too.