Kameo
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Registered: Aug 14, 2017 4:12:27 GMT -7
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Post by Kameo on Oct 17, 2020 16:08:58 GMT -7
MT10 2016 @ 4 years & 37,000 km’s Bikes just had its 40,000 km service performed - valve clearances below... We also changed these bits... All O-rings replaced showed signs of wear and were worth replacing. Below is a pic of what the gremlin O-Ring looked like after we replaced it earlier in the year(coolant leak issue). It was replaced with a generic O-RING by the mechanic. For this service I ordered the oem superceeded O-Ring part # 9321054534 and replaced it again just in case. After several months the generic O-ring we used was already looking tardy. Def something to keep an eye on. I’d change this 2 dollar O-ring every 2 years just to play it safe. Issues to watch out for between 20-40,000 k’s Issue For Me 1. RADIATOR INLET HOSE 2. RADIATOR OUTLET HOSE 3. SMALLER OF THE TWO FANS NOT WORKING 4. FUEL TANK SHOWING HALF FULL WHEN FULL FOR UPTO 10 MINUTES BEFORE CORRECTING ITSELF Common Issues Others have reported 1. O-RING 9321054534 2. SIDE STAND SWITCH - REPLACED IN SECOND YEAR OF OWNERSHIP - PLAYING UP AGAIN AT 40K 3. BIKE STRUGGLES TO START WHEN PARKED IN THE SUN ON DAYS > 30 DEGREES C 4. SHREDDED CLUTCH CABLE I’ve had a pretty good run only marred by some basic problems that can be prevented by changing 3 basic parts at or around the 20,000 k mark, for me that being the radiator inlet hose, radiator outlet hose & O-ring gremlin.
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Kameo
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Posts: 196
Likes: 70
Registered: Aug 14, 2017 4:12:27 GMT -7
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Post by Kameo on Oct 17, 2020 16:34:17 GMT -7
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Kameo
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Posts: 196
Likes: 70
Registered: Aug 14, 2017 4:12:27 GMT -7
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Post by Kameo on Oct 18, 2020 19:13:42 GMT -7
On a side note, I rode home with ear plugs after the service so can't say for sure? its been pissing down since I got back and it's pegged to continue for the rest of the week. I'l try and get out for a ride minus the ear plugs tomorrow. The following and only initial observation is therefore based on the ticking noise I previously experienced at idle before the service versus now. Over my 4 years of ownership this ticking was always ridiculously loud even at idle. I've had the auto cam chain tensioner replaced, moved to Yamalube 15w50 R4, replaced the spark plugs but nothing ever made a dent in that noise (all well documented in different places in these forums:). Well, maybe the oil made a slight difference but ultimately riding with ear plugs eventually made it a non issue for me, which is why I didn't bother mentioning the issue to my new mechanic. I've just learned to expect it will always be there... So I've just run the bike for the first time in my garage since the service (apples v apples), enclosed spaces normally exacerbate the ticking noise but low and behold even after 10 minutes I'm blown away at just how impossible it is to even hear the slightest tick, zip zero nothing. I'l report back once the weather clears up and I get to ride it without ear plugs. This was my first time at an independent mechanic. What a difference in workmanship, unbelievable. She was brilliant!, spent a solid 11/12 hours on the bike, was her first MT10 and/or crossplane engine and she's potentially accomplished what no Yamaha dealership/mechanic has even got an answer for..? And if she's knocked this tick out of the park then she's done it without even knowing it was a problem to begin with. I've always suspected the valve adjustment to be partially/fully? responsible for the severity of the noise on my bike, especially over my experience with other MT10's. But given the skills required in making these adjustments I decided to avoid the Yamaha dealerships this time around and instead rode 3 hours away from home to a mechanic I happened to encounter by chance. My 2cents, Find yourself a good/reputable mechanic, especially for the big 40,000k service, one who knows a thing or two about valve adjustments and you never know you might just give that tick the flick. Caveat "If it's been eliminated?" - mine started tick tocking at around 800km's from new. Therefore until I hit the 1000k mark from this service its possibly only a short lived solution, time will tell. I once read..."A little bit of ticking means the valve is closing completely and there is a small gap between the lifter and the valve. It's not optimal but shouldn't hurt anything. If you set them too tight then there's no ticking but the valve doesn't close all the way and you get hot gasses blowing by into the head. In short, if you're going to adjust them improperly at least you did it the way that shouldn't burn your motor up." And if that's the case it is 100% correct on my bike, no damage was ever sustained or caused by the noise. In fact, you might just be better off in the long run with a little tick
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Kameo
Full Member
Posts: 196
Likes: 70
Registered: Aug 14, 2017 4:12:27 GMT -7
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Post by Kameo on Oct 19, 2020 17:58:15 GMT -7
This place has gotten so quiet. I'l just keep on with my running diary entries then... Just back from a 1 hour ride, minus the ear plugs and as suspected it's all but gone. By this I mean had I never known about it I wouldn't notice it. On a scale of 1-10, 10 being the worst, I'd have rated my bike a 10 (based on at least 5 other MT10's ridden over the past 4 years). That 10 is now a 1. If I was a betting man I'd put my house on it being the valve adjustment. It's the one thing that has never been done before on this bike, everything else has... I'l recheck/post once I get to the 1000km mark. PS. the tick is of no consequence to me anymore, riding with plugs nullified that for me. However, if it is an issue for you then realize this... One day when you no longer give a f...k about it a really good mechanic might fix it for you
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ghostdriver22
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Posts: 6
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Registered: Aug 4, 2020 16:23:14 GMT -7
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Post by ghostdriver22 on Nov 6, 2020 9:21:24 GMT -7
Thanks for entering diary notes, Kameo! I noticed the tik from the moment I bought the bike and knew of the loud CP4. I think of the tik as Yamaha's version of Ducati's clacky dry clutches. I personally do not mind either noise and think it is a raw sound. The main reason I bought this bike is because it is raw compared to a fully fairing'd sportbike. Most riders will never ride a new 200hp sportbike to its potential on the street.
1800miles and counting on my 2020MT. Motul 7100 10w-40. OEM TUNE/EXHAUST. sliders and a couple radiator guards. Levers. Considering Metzlers for the next tire change.
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Kameo
Full Member
Posts: 196
Likes: 70
Registered: Aug 14, 2017 4:12:27 GMT -7
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Post by Kameo on Nov 16, 2020 4:04:34 GMT -7
Thanks for entering diary notes, Kameo! I noticed the tik from the moment I bought the bike and knew of the loud CP4. I think of the tik as Yamaha's version of Ducati's clacky dry clutches. It’s what the T stands for in MT-10 Update - put another 3,000k’s on it since the service - still running like a champ 3/10.
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