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Post by mindcrime79 on Mar 22, 2020 12:44:22 GMT -7
Anyone's input on particular rearsets brand experience with reference to quality and installation as well as whether or not they function with translogic/factory quick shift....?
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mrcdharwood
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Post by mrcdharwood on Mar 24, 2020 10:04:03 GMT -7
I tried cheap ones. They were crap and got sent back. Renowned brands are Bonamici, Lightech and Gilles. Most will require you losing the stock rear brake switch but I have a solution for that 😉  |
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pc1978
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Post by pc1978 on Mar 24, 2020 14:23:47 GMT -7
What are you trying to accomplish/are you looking for adjustability? If you want a more aggressive riding position and more ground clearance, but no adjustability, the ‘15+ R1 rear sets are probably the most budget friendly option. And offer solid quality. You do have to use the R1 master cylinder though, so can’t necessarily go back and forth with stock super easy. Here is a set for $70 shipped and includes the master cylinder: www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-YZF-R1-Left-Right-Rider-Front-Peg-Rearset-Foot-Rest-OEM-15-18-R1S-R1M/184204336582?hash=item2ae36f1dc6:g:hGsAAOSwqDheZrKoDoesn’t include the R1 shift lever pedal though, so I’m not sure how much distance between your foot and the stock pedal. But if you needed one, you can buy them also: www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-R1-2015-2019-Shift-Lever-Pedal-Shifter/254421517949?hash=item3b3cb4467d:g:dHcAAOSwerZdzaUCI have them on my bike and it works fine with an FTECU quickshifter/autoblipper. I am 6’2”, 32” inseam. I can get on the balls of my feet when riding aggressively in the twisties. But when not, am usually on the front of my arches. Also have handlebar clamps that lower the bars about 1” from stock position. I find the riding position still plenty comfortable for my riding. No long distance tours, usually 2-8 hours depending on the day, but of course have to stop for gas every 100 miles or so.     |
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Post by mindcrime79 on Mar 24, 2020 16:07:25 GMT -7
Thx for input. Does the r1 setup allow for stock exhaust brackets to work?
I'm curious why some aftermarkets don't work with the brake switch? Wtf is that about?!
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pc1978
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Post by pc1978 on Mar 25, 2020 9:07:54 GMT -7
Thx for input. Does the r1 setup allow for stock exhaust brackets to work? I’m pretty sure that is the stock bracket, but don’t want to say 100% sure. Might be able to compare the first pic to your bike. Mine does have a mid-pipe, but stock muffler. The reason I say that is because I bought the bike with them on. And the previous owner offered to help me switch them back to stock if I wanted to. Made it sound like it’s not overly complicated to switch them. Just not something you can do in 5 minutes, with the brake work. I was happy with the riding position and left them on. I put the stock one up against it and it looks like the bolt hole lines up for the exhaust hanger bracket. |
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gunnar
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fabbin stuff...
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Post by gunnar on Mar 25, 2020 9:17:44 GMT -7
...I'm curious why some aftermarkets don't work with the brake switch? Wtf is that about?! The stock rearsets have mounts for the lever return spring and the brake switch on the back. Most manufacturers are going to make rearsets how THEY want to make them, and leave it up to the customer to figure out the rest.   |
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Post by mindcrime79 on Mar 26, 2020 1:39:05 GMT -7
how involved in changing over the fluid reservoir? i hate bleeding brakes.
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pc1978
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Post by pc1978 on Mar 26, 2020 15:30:30 GMT -7
how involved in changing over the fluid reservoir? i hate bleeding brakes. I haven’t done it because they were already installed. But yeah, that’s a part of of the R1 rearset/master cylinder swap. |
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Deleted
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Registered: Apr 25, 2024 2:12:31 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Mar 27, 2020 13:06:07 GMT -7
Bleeding brakes to just replace old fluid is easy, and quick (did it recently to my bike, when build date was 2 years back). But if you allow air in an ABS system, then I wouldn't like to do that either  . You need to cycle the pump to be safe, and purge all air bubbles from the system. Oh, and also fill the system from the caliper first, then do a regular bleed job. Good luck. |
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mrcdharwood
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Post by mrcdharwood on Apr 1, 2020 6:26:19 GMT -7
Get some banjo bleed bolts to help bleed. These help massively in bleeding the ABS unit. Like already mentioned reverse bleed from the caliper if you remove the original MC. Then your not flushing air through the ABS unit. Once done a conventional bleed at the banjo bleed bolts if you've got them. Not needed so much on the rear but deffo the front with a complete systems drain.  |
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Post by hooli on Dec 20, 2020 9:22:56 GMT -7
I'm curious why some aftermarkets don't work with the brake switch? Wtf is that about?! Because most race-oriented rearsets are made for track use in mind, so you either run a hydraulically actuated brake switch for street use, or delete it altogether. |
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. You need to cycle the pump to be safe, and purge all air bubbles from the system. Oh, and also fill the system from the caliper first, then do a regular bleed job. Good luck.