2020 MT 10 on order

congrats and hello from northern california!

Ive been to Chuckwalla a few times: awesome track. third gear (50-110ish) mostly, I'd say. MT-10 will do great there!

Congrats and welcome.
I’m pretty new here also, just picked up my MT10 about a month ago.

The guy I bought it from is a member here, and was a great guy to buy from, but not sure if he is very active any more. He could probably help you out some if you had some questions, might be able to reach him through his YouTube Channel.
He is a track day photographer and had the bike I bought from him set up for some track riding when he was there working, said he also did some instructing there.

He had used FTECU flash.
I’m sure there are some other good options for flashes, but if I had to guess the reason he used them is because they also have an aftermarket quickshifter with an auto blipper that you can also purchase if you have their flash.
He had it set for GP shift, but can easily go back and forth to standard shifting.
He also lowered the handlebars and put R1 rear sets on it (more budget friendly than some of the other options but do have to use the R1 rear master cyclinder).
Also put on an R1 front master cylinder.

He had upgraded the suspension, but I didn’t purchase it with those components as I don’t plan on taking it to the track (although it did have an R1 rear shock on it when I bought it).

Couple of his videos on the bike I bought from him:

Welcome. My son & I were fortunate to take the YRCS 2 day school @ Laguna Seca . Great time & probably the highlight of my riding life. To think I've ridden on the same track as great 2 wheel champs like Rossi still brings a lot of joy to me.

Hey OP, for that kind of lean angle, what changes did YRCS make on that FZ/MT-10? Stock drags much earlier than that. Even mine, with 1/2-length peg feelers drags relatively early, but that did it for me, since I don't track it. And still handles the same with sport-touring rubber (Road5s vs the sport stock rubber), so less cost of ownership. But for track duty, you need to pretty much change EVERYTHING, so why not just buy an R1 with your experience? I just don't get why try to make an FZ/MT-10 a track bike, when Yamaha already makes a much better one, and it'd probably be cheaper at the end, and still a superior bike, but to each his own .

Anyway, I was considering YRCS at IMS this year, but they never answer the freaking phone. Need to know how it's structured, since I saw a video where instructors stop students on every lap, and I don't want that, especially if it's every session. Also how many sessions per day total (there're 7 with SS). Need to book Barber tomorrow, so if YRCS doesn't answer the phone tomorrow, will have to book it there. Welcome to the family.

Hey brother, thank you for your offer to help. Called yesterday morning, and again, just Ienatsch's voice recorded message. Called IMR directly, and they were there, at the track, but nobody called me back, so we booked with SS. We also had an itinerary already done for another visit to Mr. Dragon after Barber, so left it at that. I don't plan to do any more expensive track schools (already did enough), but if I change my mind, would give YRSC another chance.

Thanks for the info on the bike. It obviously doesn't have the feelers (they drag at the least provocation), but guess the bike leans more than I feel it doing. Ha ha. I didn't want to just remove the feelers, since I'm almost sure hard parts would drag before the pegs themselves, but hopefully you can tell us where exactly the bike drags on both sides (very easy to check). I'd greatly appreciate that . I haven't dragged the short ones I put yet, but might consider removing them for extra safety margin, if you report no hard parts drag first. But that limitation keeps me safe, and also being able to do multiple 300+ mile days without fatigue, so this bike is the best compromise for me too . Haven't changed a thing, other than a comfort seat and a slip-on, plus cosmetic stuff. But after riding the S1000RRs at the track, I just don't feel like tracking this one at all; it's not meant for that IMO. And since I'm not a pro, or anything close to that, it's nice not having to worry about dragging anything . I'd MUCH prefer an R6 than my bike at the track, but that's just me.

As far as BP, I don't use much on this bike (just the torso a little); it feels weird so upright. Plus you don't want a cop seeing you like that. Ha ha. Anyway, this bike is exactly what I was looking for, to tackle twisty roads in comfort, capability, and style . I'm surprised Yamaha hasn't sold more. Take care.

I don’t think you have to worry about hard parts dragging.

The bike I purchased used had R1 rear sets installed (peg feelers removed).
If you watch a couple minutes of the second video I linked (rear view video) in my post above, the previous owner has it leaned over pretty hard on the track and the pegs didn’t drag or any hard parts.

If you look through his leg when leaned over you can see the frame sliders he had installed.  They stick out 2.5” from the furthest out plastic on the bike, other than the front turn signals (but the signals are higher up).
There is no wear indication that the pegs, frame sliders, or turn signals have ever touched the ground.

Also, copied this photo from one of his previous posts.  
There are engine guards on and you can see the engine/guards still have clearance at this lean angle.

Great to know no hard parts drag on a stock bike without feelers (thank you Pc1978 and Rebobd). But I bet the exhaust can should be pretty close behind, and probably the huge cat box underneath too, and on both sides. At any rate, just no feelers should be absolutely enough for me (just street), so no need to mess with the ergos, or anything else. But for track duty, experienced riders absolutely need rearsets, if only as not to worry about dragging anything (plus track rubber too). Hey Rebobd, looks like you'll need a new rear shock on that bike; rear suspension seems more compressed than the front (bike looks squatted). It'd give you additional clearance too.

Finally, you mentioned ordering a 2020. Why not buy a discounted left over 2019 or 2018? Or even better: A pristine used example. If you're going to tune it right away, and void your engine warranty, might as well buy used, and save a bunch of money overall, and not deal with breaking the thing in. They're all exactly the same thing (sans colors), after all. Just a thought . Good luck, brother.

Good Choice....you are gonna Love It!

The factory steering damper is electrically connected to the bike's harness.

It sure can.