pc1978
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Registered: Jan 8, 2020 15:51:27 GMT -7
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Post by pc1978 on Mar 4, 2020 16:29:46 GMT -7
Funny coincidence. Replied to this thread yesterday regarding dealerships/demo rides, and then today had shifting issues.
Last ride was on Sunday and had no issues. Decided to go out this afternoon. Pull out of the neighborhood and accelerate and up shift through to 4th. Get behind a car and go to downshift into 3rd and nothing. I have an auto-blipper so pulled in the clutch and still nothing on the downshift.
Pull off into the next neighborhood to play around with it. Goes up easily but going down doesn’t work 90% of the time and won’t go below 3rd. Finally just get it into 4th and ride it back home in 4th after upshifting to 6th while stopped.
Play around with the shift rod. I had unbolted it a few weeks ago to remove the front sprocket cover for a chain cleaning. But no issues since then until today. Still not wanting to downshift in the driveway.
It was past due for an oil change. Had the 600 miler. I bought it at 3500 and should have just done one then to be safe but had been putting it off. At 4900 now, so a bit past due. Went and picked up oil and filter and did the change. Was shifting smoothly in the driveway so took it out for a short ride. Shift and auto-blipper we’re back to being smooth as butter.
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pc1978
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Posts: 104
Likes: 55
Registered: Jan 8, 2020 15:51:27 GMT -7
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Post by pc1978 on Mar 6, 2020 14:25:47 GMT -7
Update to my post above. Took the bike out this afternoon and was shifting just fine, same as last ride, when on the open roads. But as I got into more traffic/stops it started acting up again and not wanting to downshift. So I took it back home to try to figure it out.
Thought through everything that I had done. When I had removed the bottom bolt when cleaning the chain, so I could could get the front sprocket cover off, I had applied blue Loctite when re-installing. Well I must have been overzealous with the loctite. Not sure how the OEM linkage is designed, but on my aftermarket one, the bolts go through a ball that allows the linkage slight range of motion in all directions. Didn’t think to check it the other day because it is under a rubber dust cover. The top one was able to move completely freely, but the loctite had gotten on the bottom one and it could not freely rotate. Must have been causing some issues with a sensor or something, by not have the full range of motion. I’m thinking that once there was a failed downshift with the auto-blipper the sensor (or whatever was stopping it from working) wouldn’t allow shifts with the clutch either.
Got it cleaned up with denatured alcohol and put some bearing grease on it. Had the same smooth, free range of motion as the top one. Took it back out for a couple hours and now is working fine/as designed in all situations.
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sy
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Registered: Mar 1, 2019 13:01:16 GMT -7
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Post by sy on Mar 27, 2020 12:35:27 GMT -7
Just a quick update to my clutch replacement Had it back a wee while now and although its not bouncing of the 1st gear when trying to shift into 1st it still has a noticeable crunch/lurch. The mech seems to thinks its good and was a little dissapointed it didn't make a buttery transitional change like the shop bike or like my bike was before. I was kinda hoping it would wear in but hasn't (oh well ) Will probably look at thinner oil at the next change and for now am starting it in gear when I can just to save it a bit
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wodger63
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Registered: Jul 20, 2019 23:47:18 GMT -7
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Post by wodger63 on Mar 27, 2020 13:10:50 GMT -7
Just a quick update to my clutch replacement Had it back a wee while now and although its not bouncing of the 1st gear when trying to shift into 1st it still has a noticeable crunch/lurch. The mech seems to thinks its good and was a little dissapointed it didn't make a buttery transitional change like the shop bike or like my bike was before. I was kinda hoping it would wear in but hasn't (oh well ) Will probably look at thinner oil at the next change and for now am starting it in gear when I can just to save it a bit You haven't by chance got a span adjustable clutch lever? What weight oil are you running, I use 10W40 Yamalube. Heavier oil weight only really causes noticeable clutch drag when the engine is cold. Colder climates will have an effect at the start of the day/ride also. Is clutch drag excessive even when hot, or only when cold? It does pay to be engage first gear positively and not be timid. I cringe a little sometimes with mine but I accept that this is the nature of this bike. I have owned other bikes that engage first gear much smoother and shift better through the box. What I have found with the MT-10 is you have to be firm and positive with your shifts.
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Deleted
Posts: 0
Registered: Apr 26, 2024 0:48:59 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Mar 27, 2020 15:24:06 GMT -7
Bikes with a wet clutch are always going to 'crunch' when engaging 1st gear, cold or hot. And the FZ/MT-10 is no different. And yes, it's cringe inducing, but this bike is no different than any other bike I've owned, and there have been dozens. Oh, and I switched to 5/40 oil, which is thinner when cold, and didn't notice any difference in the 1st gear clunking, hot or cold. Having said that, there shouldn't be any 'lurch', as in pushing the bike forward. If it is, then that's not good. Try adjusting your clutch lever further out, and/or pull the lever closer to the grip, if needed. Also check the lever's free play. Good luck.
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sy
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Registered: Mar 1, 2019 13:01:16 GMT -7
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Post by sy on Mar 27, 2020 20:18:28 GMT -7
Heya wodger....just the standard clutch and shop oil what ever that is. Freeplay is good and Im not shy to stand on the shift cleanly
elptxjc...Yep I expect some crunch to be usual but it would have been nice to have it be as smooth as it was when new and yeah yeah nothing stays new forever I can handle a crunch if the bike didn't also jump whist doing it (cold). Its not a big jump but enough for me to start the bike in-gear. Im not terribly fussed at this stage like I say its better and livable. The starting in gear thingy is just me being pedantic
I may take it back yet if nothing but to say I think its not right incase of any problems down the line. My shop is pretty good so I need to keep that relationship a happy one
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nicklabrie
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Registered: Nov 9, 2017 13:45:49 GMT -7
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Post by nicklabrie on May 28, 2020 14:49:25 GMT -7
If you haven't messed with the shift linkage, clutch is adjusted properly, no accidents on that side recently, and shift linkage checks out good, I'd start with changing the oil with at least 10/40 (I use 5/40), for those cold ambient temperatures. You don't need 15/50 unless tracking the bike hard (and in summer) anyway, and it's excessively thick for those temperatures IMO. Plus it's nice to change it early the first time or two, where most wear occurs, and likely the reason for your issues, since they started recently (due to cold temperatures). If the issue persists, then it'd be time to consider other more serious issues, but hopefully not needed. Good luck, and get back to us. Unless you’re having trouble getting your bike started in sub-freezing temps, or, in those temps you’re concerned with engine protection at startup, all of those are fine, 50 weight oil in these bikes offers great engine protection/wear. The 5/10/15 part is only the viscosity when it’s “cold.” As soon as the engine is warmed up, or at operating temperature, 5/40 and 10/40 are identical, and 15/50 is slightly more viscous. Finally, 50-60° ambient temp is NOT cold weather.
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mrcdharwood
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Registered: Nov 4, 2017 1:39:49 GMT -7
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Post by mrcdharwood on May 30, 2020 0:03:25 GMT -7
In the 3 years I've had my MT10 I've noticed there are a few causes. Firstly make sure the shift selector and shift lever are parallel to each other and the road. There are personal preferences with regard to getting the ergonomics right for you but this is a starter. Remember your physics lesson on levers and forces? This is what this is about. Having it slightly out can lead to additional forces having to be applied to shift. Second thing is the drive chain. I find setting it at its tightest spec of 1" of slack gives the best result. I've also been taught to give the throttle a little blip on a down change ever since I had my first bike at 16. Not clutchless blipped down shifts but a little blip to help smooth the down shifts out. This helps too. Incidentally I fitted new rear sets the other day including shift and brake pedals. Ever since then shifts have been that buttery smooth action we all wish our bikes were like. Something I've never experienced on these since I've owned mine. Despite the above there has always been a clunkiness to the changes. This can only be due to my point referenced in point one. Wheter its the longer shift pedal/lever or a better angle it's definitely made a massive difference.
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mrcdharwood
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Registered: Nov 4, 2017 1:39:49 GMT -7
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Post by mrcdharwood on Jun 8, 2020 3:56:18 GMT -7
Incidentally I changed my clutch pack this weekend. What a difference! Silky smooth from the off. There may be some adjustment that can help with the grabby clutch at the bottom end of the cable on what yamaha call the pull rod and and pull lever in the manual. Loosen the clutch cable at the lever and then remove the circlip and washer from the pull rod (the bit the pull lever attached to) at the bottom. Then remove the pull lever and the spring. Then turn the pull rod and make sure it is turned fully clockwise (towards the from of the bike). This places the clutch at its point of disengagement. Then refit the spring connect the clutch cable again and tighten. It may be that you have moved the pull lever on a notch or two and that in turn given you more disengagement with your lever. In turn this may sort out any issues you have. I can't say for sure because I've fitted a complete new clutch but it was upon refitting it that I was aware of this adjustment which, I think, may help a few.
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