springypig
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Post by springypig on Dec 29, 2019 21:12:52 GMT -7
This is probably a dumb question I might already know the answer to but I would just like to ask. Recently i've been having to press harder on the shifter to go into first gear. Normally it just snicks into first with minimal effort, but now if I try to shift too lightly there is a strong chatter/grind from the bike. I assume its the gears in the transmission spinning up more than normal with the bike in neutral because the cold weather is leaving the oil thicker? Usually happens when a sit a little bit in neutral and try shifting into first. Assuming that because i'm in cali and the weather has been colder lately (around mid 50*F-60*F). My bike op temperature has been hovering around the 150*F range after riding around town and freeway. But this might just be total b.s. excuse i'm making to myself. I would like to know if this is just something common or if I might have a serious issue at hand. Had an Ninja 300 and R6 beforehand, never experienced this before.
Currently on my bike (2017 model): 4132 miles Last oil change at 1100 miles, Yamalube 15w-50 synthetic 3/4 two brothers sys Power vision flash sys w/ flash from fuel moto graves block off plates and etc accessories
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Post by RedAndBlack on Dec 30, 2019 10:05:30 GMT -7
Check the shift linkage. Sometimes it gets a little out of whack and if it gets in a certain configuration, shifts get harder. Happened to me when I switched rearsets to aftermarket then back. Adjusted it and then it was fine.
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Deleted
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Registered: Mar 28, 2024 23:09:41 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Dec 31, 2019 0:00:02 GMT -7
If you haven't messed with the shift linkage, clutch is adjusted properly, no accidents on that side recently, and shift linkage checks out good, I'd start with changing the oil with at least 10/40 (I use 5/40), for those cold ambient temperatures. You don't need 15/50 unless tracking the bike hard (and in summer) anyway, and it's excessively thick for those temperatures IMO. Plus it's nice to change it early the first time or two, where most wear occurs, and likely the reason for your issues, since they started recently (due to cold temperatures). If the issue persists, then it'd be time to consider other more serious issues, but hopefully not needed. Good luck, and get back to us.
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springypig
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Post by springypig on Dec 31, 2019 23:22:35 GMT -7
Shift linkage looks good, and i'll look at changing the oil soon then. Just haven't been riding it for a bit because of the weather now. No one wants to ride when its cold and the sun isn't out in cali haha . I've never switched oil weights before in a bike. Do I need to flush it out? I'm trying to stick to yamalube as well because the extended warranty. But I see that they only make synthetic for 15w-50 and now 10w-40
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smokinfz10
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Post by smokinfz10 on Jan 1, 2020 7:35:50 GMT -7
No need to flush oil, just Change oil to 10w40 and ride!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 1, 2020 19:37:16 GMT -7
Yep, just let it drain as much as possible, then top it off to the full mark, to dilute the old 15/50 as much as possible (by the next oil change, it'll be mostly gone). As a reference, I changed the oil on my bike a few days ago, letting it drain until nothing was coming out, and poured 4-1/4 quarts, and level is still between min and max, so will take almost 4-1/2 qts when I top it off. Impressive. But make sure to put a level on the front brake when topping off to the max, because if bike is not perfectly vertical, you could overfill it. You should notice an immediate change when you ride the bike again. Keep us posted. Good luck.
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Post by RedAndBlack on Jan 2, 2020 15:20:30 GMT -7
Where in Cali so you live? I don't suspect going from a 15w-50 to a 10w-40 is going to help you much being that most of the state the temperatures don't get low enough for this to make a difference, while possibly hurting hot engine performance where most the state can see excess temperatures during the summer. You'd be dropping the low weather viscosity while at the same time dropping the hot weather viscosity.
And sorry if I misspoke, I didn't mean to just check the linkage tightness, I meant to adjust it to a different configuration to see if it improves. Slightly adjust it one way or another, do a couple runs up and down the street and see if it improves. I had to do this when reinstalled my stock rearsets. I literally could not get the bike into second gear.
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vstate60
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Post by vstate60 on Jan 2, 2020 19:56:28 GMT -7
Where in Cali so you live? I don't suspect going from a 15w to a 10w is going to help you much being that most of the state the temperatures don't get low enough for this to make a difference, while possibly hurting hot engine performance where most the state can see excess temperatures during the summer. And sorry if I misspoke, I didn't mean to just check the linkage, I meant to adjust it to a different configuration to see if it improves. Slightly adjust it one way or another, do a couple runs up and down the street and see if it improves. I had to do this when reinstalled my stock rearsets. I literally couldn't shift into 2nd gear. Would bet a good chunk that it’s your shift linkage. Experienced this several times on street and track bikes. Pretty normal.
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oldster52
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Post by oldster52 on Jan 5, 2020 5:51:12 GMT -7
I had some downshifting issues recently. I checked with you good folks on the forum and got great advice. Adjusting the shift linkage has taken care of my problems.
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smokinfz10
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Post by smokinfz10 on Jan 5, 2020 7:42:00 GMT -7
I had some downshifting issues recently. I checked with you good folks on the forum and got great advice. Adjusting the shift linkage has taken care of my problems. Nothing like a little STRESS! I am glad the problem is resolved.
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vstate60
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Post by vstate60 on Jan 8, 2020 9:46:49 GMT -7
Did the OP get it handled?
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springypig
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Post by springypig on Feb 11, 2020 19:05:01 GMT -7
Shift linkage looked fine and I played with it a little bit. Change the oil and everything but it has not really gone away. Guess I am just going to have to live with it. Thank for the advice though!!
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wodger63
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Post by wodger63 on Feb 13, 2020 0:44:48 GMT -7
Just a thought, have you checked you clutch adjustment. I also lube the gear lever pivot, especially after riding in the rain.
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springypig
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Post by springypig on Feb 22, 2020 14:30:38 GMT -7
Clutch adjustment is in spec. Lubed as well.
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sy
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Post by sy on Feb 22, 2020 21:44:36 GMT -7
My bike is currently at the shop as we speak for the same issue
Me bike only has 10,0000 km on the clock and its just been serviced within the last 500km and clutch free play is in spec
When I first noticed it I pretty much rode it to the shop and they just said leave it here and gave me their demmo bike
The mechanic says there is definitely a problem and suspects it may be clutch drag
A quick google search shows this to be common and adjustment looks to be at the clutch its self but not 100% sure of that
I call the shop tomorrow and see if they have got to my bike yet and update you
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vstate60
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Post by vstate60 on Feb 29, 2020 11:27:20 GMT -7
My bike is currently at the shop as we speak for the same issue Me bike only has 10,0000 km on the clock and its just been serviced within the last 500km and clutch free play is in spec When I first noticed it I pretty much rode it to the shop and they just said leave it here and gave me their demmo bike The mechanic says there is definitely a problem and suspects it may be clutch drag A quick google search shows this to be common and adjustment looks to be at the clutch its self but not 100% sure of that I call the shop tomorrow and see if they have got to my bike yet and update you So I’m adding a little oil to see if it solves it, and I’ll post a video if this doesn’t make sense as it’s a different problem, but basically when in gear and the clutch lever pulled to the bar—it’s still running the drive chain and spinning the rear pretty fast. Even when coasting with the clutch pulled in, in gear, I can feel the chain ‘grabbing’ and putting a little bit of power to the wheel. Totally different experience than when it’s in neutral. What does the beeb think?
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sy
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Post by sy on Feb 29, 2020 14:14:29 GMT -7
Hi Vstate
Sorry I should have got back to you earlier...do let me know how the thinner oil goes for you it may still be in he cards for me
My shop mechanic has stripped out the clutch and shift shaft and it all looks to be good A small spring on the shaft appears to be weak so that's getting replaced as well as the a new clutch
They cannot see any visual problems but he thinks its still likely to be clutch drag He says that the plates in between the clutch plates can warp with heat and that they only need a small warp to bind everything together causing the clutch to be slightly engaged
All parts are on back order and expected in three week so I will not be able to let you know the outcome till then
On the bright side Im getting to smash the kms on their bikes and save mine so all good. To date I've had the Tenere 700 the mt10 the tracer 900 and the MT07 :}
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vstate60
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Post by vstate60 on Mar 2, 2020 18:23:59 GMT -7
Hi Vstate Sorry I should have got back to you earlier...do let me know how the thinner oil goes for you it may still be in he cards for me My shop mechanic has stripped out the clutch and shift shaft and it all looks to be good A small spring on the shaft appears to be weak so that's getting replaced as well as the a new clutch They cannot see any visual problems but he thinks its still likely to be clutch drag He says that the plates in between the clutch plates can warp with heat and that they only need a small warp to bind everything together causing the clutch to be slightly engaged All parts are on back order and expected in three week so I will not be able to let you know the outcome till then On the bright side Im getting to smash the kms on their bikes and save mine so all good. To date I've had the Tenere 700 the mt10 the tracer 900 and the MT07 :} Thanks for the update! And I couldn’t even find a Yamaha dealer to let me test ride a bike after showing a race license and insurance, etc...let alone give me a loaner! Where the hell are you servicing your bike??
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sy
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Post by sy on Mar 3, 2020 12:40:34 GMT -7
I live in Hawkes Bay NZ and Im pretty lucky that the shop here have a team of bike enthusiasts. They all own bikes and the Mechanic and owner both race so its real easy to get caught up in the typical bike banter when I go in
I've spent a some decent coin with them now and they show gratitude with the loan bikes and more than reasonable discounts on clothing and parts
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pc1978
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Post by pc1978 on Mar 3, 2020 16:21:12 GMT -7
Our local dealer has pretty good selection of demo bikes, don’t think they loan though. When I was getting my inspection done I was talking to a sales guy about my bike. Told him I really liked the styling on the Honda CB1000R. He knew I had just bought the MT10 and wasn’t in the market and immediately wanted me to go ride the demo CB with him on their demo MT10. Think he just wanted to go for a ride.
Another good option for testing bikes, if they come near you and you have time to wait to purchase, is the manufacturer demo trucks. Yamaha brings about every bike but the R1.
I went to a BMW event and rode the new S1000rr and a R1250R. They went a decently quick pace through some curves on the route. And the leader did a quick 45-110 hard pull while I was behind him. They were real cool. Not a high pressure sales event. Just want you to ride some new bikes. They are at a dealership, but the dealership is hands off during the event. I went on a Friday morning and it wasn’t super busy. Could have easily just kept riding bikes all day.
Really want to go to the KTM event when it comes to Charlotte, a lot of times they do theirs at a track. Want to ride the redesigned 2020 SDR and see if the chassis improvements do help the handling as much as everyone is saying.
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