Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 17, 2019 0:04:35 GMT -7
Hey gang, I know the answer is probably going to be 'NO', but want to try anyway  . I'd like to install the Denali DM 2.0 LEDs for better visibility, and also the Denali Soundbomb compact air horn (separate compressor and horn), along with an FZ1 fuse box. My #1 problem is I already have the area under the seat full (flat tire kit, multitool, OBD2 adapter and code reader, etc.), and I want to leave it alone. So the only way to install those things are if there's space for all of that elsewhere, and out of view. So the FZ1 would have to be installed behind one of the small panels. Then the horn compressor somewhere, which would probably be more of a challenge. Another challenge would be the horn facing forward, which is a must if I'm going to install it. And finally, the 2 boxes for the LEDs, which shouldn't be a problem IMO. I don't like the cheapo switch, but could put it out of sight, since I'd always have them on. And no, I haven't removed all the plastic on my bike, so no idea what I could fit behind it. That's why I'm asking for your help  .
Don't worry if you only have one of the items installed. I can get pointers from different installations. Don't have any idea where to mount anything. Ha ha. Just thought about it, and wanted to see if it's at least feasible, based on your replies. Will have lots of time between chemos, so looking for something to do that I enjoy, to relax the mind . Thank you. |
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gunnar
Full Member
fabbin stuff...
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Post by gunnar on Dec 17, 2019 8:13:24 GMT -7
There is a small amount of room behind the air duct covers, and a tiny bit of room behind the lower right cover, and a bit of space behind the headlights (visible though). Nowhere else to really hide anything on this "naked" bike.
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Post by thefinn on Dec 21, 2019 16:26:19 GMT -7
Cant help much, but if you have the lights with the setup that they connect to the stock hi/lo beam please let me know if you get it working out. Apparently they need a clean 12V signal to work, and havent gotten any answers if its possible to do on this bike for about a year now. Even Denali wouldnt give an answer besides "this is what you need to make it work", yes i know what kit i need, my question was wether i can pair it with my stock switch because a seperate switch is a deal breaker for me.
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vstate60
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Post by vstate60 on Dec 22, 2019 20:52:40 GMT -7
Right there with you but I should be able to help in the next couple days—I just got my Denali Soundbomb (not the mini) in the mail and realized I also have no idea where to put it. I’ll update either way (good news or bad!).
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 22, 2019 23:16:06 GMT -7
I honestly wouldn't do that brother; I never mess with factory wiring unless it's a connector that can be replaced. That was the case with the 12V socket with connector, so I cut the wires at the socket, and spliced the new dual USB socket. I'd probably get the switched current from there, if I ever do this project. So far no help, as I suspected; most folks put the fuse box under the seat. Anyway, I'd just leave the lights on all the time, as they shouldn't draw too much power. And try to hide the switch somewhere. If you really want to do wire the Denalis to the factory lights, you might want to start a new specific thread, because you're unlikely to get help here. Good luck.
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Post by thefinn on Dec 24, 2019 12:54:54 GMT -7
I honestly wouldn't do that brother; I never mess with factory wiring unless it's a connector that can be replaced. That was the case with the 12V socket with connector, so I cut the wires at the socket, and spliced the new dual USB socket. I'd probably get the switched current from there, if I ever do this project. So far no help, as I suspected; most folks put the fuse box under the seat. Anyway, I'd just leave the lights on all the time, as they shouldn't draw too much power. And try to hide the switch somewhere. If you really want to do wire the Denalis to the factory lights, you might want to start a new specific thread, because you're unlikely to get help here. Good luck. Have done already. Oh well, next time i bring the bike to the mechanic ill ask him about it. You might be right that i shouldnt touch factory wiring, ill see if he can do something about it. Thing is i ride a lot of highway, and during Fall the sun sets at about 5 pm over here so i often get stuck in complete darkness with high risks of moose and stuff. Having high beam all the time on wouldnt be an option as it blinds other roadusers but like you i dont want any ugly extra switches on my handlebars :/ Anyways thanks for the help! |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 28, 2019 18:08:11 GMT -7
I see. Well, if you want them for extra illumination, and you just don't want the switch anywhere, you could always aim them just low enough that they don't blind oncoming traffic, so they can always be on without bothering others. Or just get it done the way you want. I'm in the minority not wanting to mess with factory wiring; most folks do. I'd just make sure it gets done professionally, meaning no damage to the spliced wire whatsoever (I wouldn't cut it), looking OEM at the end, and with no chance of ever getting moisture, etc, so very well protected by shrink tubing. And also done where's the least chance of having issues. Also make sure you wouldn't be overdrawing the circuit/wire, using a relay if needed (I need to check on that too). Good luck.
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Post by thefinn on Dec 28, 2019 19:42:17 GMT -7
The electricity from the wire is just used to switch the amount of current going to the denali lights, so it doesnt draw power from the OEM wiring as far as i know, it just reads it. Thats why it needs a clean 12V signal. The power that goes to LED lights itself is usually something very weird and scientific i cant explain, and the denali setup wont accept anything but a clean 12V signal to switch the lights from high to low beam and vice versa. This is ofcause using the denalis kit for "attaching" these to the oem switch, the power is still drawn seperately from the battery. I would never have a new sets of lights simply hotwired to the wires powering the existing lights, if that is what you thought i meant  But yes, ill get it professionally done. First thing is to ask the mechanic to take a look wether the voltage of the high beam switch is 12V. I speak from experience when saying that returning products youve had shipped over the atlantic is like trying to move a mountain 3 feet to the left. |
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Post by thefinn on Dec 28, 2019 19:54:58 GMT -7
Oh and as for your questions (sorry, totally forgot you), the air scoops are quite full of quring and fuses. The plastics they sit on are pretty tight to the tank. I think you could force in something the size of matchbox somewhere in the scoops, if even that.
The compressor would have to be externally mounted for sure.
What we get under the seat is pretty much it sadly, maybe go for the compact horn model that has the compressor built into it and mount it somewhere above the radiator.
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Post by thefinn on Dec 28, 2019 19:57:13 GMT -7
  found these pictures in my gallery, the banks of electronics you see hanging is what goes into the scoops |
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Post by thefinn on Dec 28, 2019 20:02:31 GMT -7
Maybe you could fit something inside the triangular pieces of plastic below the scoops now that i think about it. Dont remmeber exactly how much space there was but you could maybe get some electronics inside them. Then drag the wores under the frame, under the tank and into the under-seat compartment.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 30, 2019 23:06:29 GMT -7
Thank you Finn. That was great help. And yes, I agree only under those triangular pieces I could maybe place something. I wouldn't drill the frame, so if a fuse box fits, I'd have to attach if via industrial strength double-sided 3M tape, but need to research if it can withstand the heat it'd get there. On the other side, it'd be perfect if the Denali compressor would fit, but really doubt it. And the single piece is too bulky for the radiator area. Even the horn itself might be a tight fit. Wouldn't want to block the radiator that much. Need to remove one of those triangular pieces and check out the area available in there. Hey, do you know if the fuel tank pivots up, or you have to remove it completely, like to access the air filter? Thank you again for your great help. Best wishes for the new year . |
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bigkurka
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Post by bigkurka on Jan 4, 2020 23:04:35 GMT -7
@elptxjc Why do you want to install the fuse block from a FZ1?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2020 14:50:45 GMT -7
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gunnar
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fabbin stuff...
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Post by gunnar on Jan 6, 2020 11:37:41 GMT -7
At 2.4"X 3.3"X 1" thick, I think the only place that FZ1 box will fit is behind one of the air duct covers, and it will be real tight if it does. The right lower cover is mostly filled up by the upper engine mount, so forget that space.  |
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. I'd like to install the Denali DM 2.0 LEDs for better visibility, and also the Denali Soundbomb compact air horn (separate compressor and horn), along with an FZ1 fuse box. My #1 problem is I already have the area under the seat full (flat tire kit, multitool, OBD2 adapter and code reader, etc.), and I want to leave it alone. So the only way to install those things are if there's space for all of that elsewhere, and out of view. So the FZ1 would have to be installed behind one of the small panels. Then the horn compressor somewhere, which would probably be more of a challenge. Another challenge would be the horn facing forward, which is a must if I'm going to install it. And finally, the 2 boxes for the LEDs, which shouldn't be a problem IMO. I don't like the cheapo switch, but could put it out of sight, since I'd always have them on. And no, I haven't removed all the plastic on my bike, so no idea what I could fit behind it. That's why I'm asking for your help 
. 
