Kameo
Full Member
Posts: 196
Likes: 70
Registered: Aug 14, 2017 4:12:27 GMT -7
|
Post by Kameo on Sept 3, 2019 22:18:25 GMT -7
I've known about a problem with a radiator hose and/or part which fails between 16,000 & 30,000. I'm not sure if this is the same problem so let us know if you've already been here and done this... I've got about 26,000km on the clock and just noticed this last week; ![]()  Spent an hour looking for leaks and found this on the bottom side...  Bike would only drip coolant after 2 days of sitting idle and then only one drip? Couldn't find the source of the leak so I gave it a good wash. And took it for a ride... then 2 days later I found the same drip, only this time I also noticed this;  The top side of this cover looked wet? Got in from the other side with my phone and took this shot;  And couldn't really make heads or tails of it all.... For the life of me I couldn't find the source of the leak, warm or cold....? and it would only drip after two days of not riding. Then today I caught it before it had a chance to dry up and disappear? I'm not sure why It didn't show up so glaringly before but I know I spent ages checking that same location/part over and over again.  Which is the radiator inlet hose....  It was seeping out and drying up but after sitting idle for a couple of days it would slowly drip onto the top part of the hose cover beneath it before making its way to the underside of the same part. Once ridden the coolant turned white and made it difficult to trace prior to washing. Part 18 - hose and 19 clips - diagram below... 
damn...min 3 weeks for the part to come in. |
|
Sponsored Ad
|
|
|
Post by RedAndBlack on Sept 4, 2019 0:32:41 GMT -7
Is the hose cracked or something?
|
|
Kameo
Full Member
Posts: 196
Likes: 70
Registered: Aug 14, 2017 4:12:27 GMT -7
|
Post by Kameo on Sept 4, 2019 1:22:25 GMT -7
No visible cracks at all, info Ive seen from other riders suggest something perishes due to shitty parts(hose?) used in some of the older models.
Never caught a glimpse of any images online so if this is the issue then here it is.
|
|
Deleted
Posts: 0
Registered: Apr 26, 2024 2:29:30 GMT -7
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 4, 2019 7:00:28 GMT -7
First time I see that leak; obviously a defective hose. Thank you for letting us know that's another potential leak. A common leak on earlier bikes is from the O-ring connecting that metal tube to the engine (not sure if the other metal tube is an issue too). Since you need to drain the coolant to replace that hose, might as well replace the O-ring at the other end of the metal tube, since it'll most likely leak, and soon. They should be cheap, and there will be minimum extra labor involved. Yamaha reportedly upgraded those O-rings (not sure when), so they shouldn't fail again. Not sure if the other metal hose leaks or not; hopefully somebody else can chime in on that, so you can also order it if needed. Good luck.
|
|
|
|
Post by RedAndBlack on Sept 4, 2019 13:39:42 GMT -7
Any attempt to secure it better? Loosen it up, push the hose onto the fitting a little bit more, and retighten on a slightly different part of the hose with maybe a new fastener?
I don't mean to second guess but the hose looks fine in the pictures. Hard to believe it needs replacement. I had a similar issue on my track bike but on a different hose and that's all I had to do to get it to stop leaking.
either way, good luck and thanks for making us aware. I didn't even know this was an issue.
|
|
oldbob
New Member
Posts: 22
Likes: 6
Registered: Jun 3, 2019 17:08:43 GMT -7
|
Post by oldbob on Sept 5, 2019 5:07:18 GMT -7
Any attempt to secure it better? Loosen it up, push the hose onto the fitting a little bit more, and retighten on a slightly different part of the hose with maybe a new fastener? I don't mean to second guess but the hose looks fine in the pictures. Hard to believe it needs replacement. I had a similar issue on my track bike but on a different hose and that's all I had to do to get it to stop leaking. either way, good luck and thanks for making us aware. I didn't even know this was an issue. I agree, hose still looks in decent shape. I don't trust those factory hose clamps that can't be adjusted. Get some stainless steel adjustable hose clamps, tighten them down good and then see if the problem still exists. If you do decide to replace the hose(s), I would still go with replacement adjustable clamps. |
|
|
|
Post by hooli on Sept 5, 2019 11:30:07 GMT -7
Time for some aftermarket silicone hoses and proper stainless steel clamps.
|
|
Deleted
Posts: 0
Registered: Apr 26, 2024 2:29:30 GMT -7
|
Post by Deleted on Sept 7, 2019 10:44:23 GMT -7
Time for some aftermarket silicone hoses and proper stainless steel clamps. On the silicon hoses, it sounds great, but are there any specifically for the FZ/MT-10? If yes, how about a link?  And on the S/S clamps, which ones are you using? Do you have a link too? The typical worm-type are not used anymore, since they have a pressure point at the worm, which can break plastic (if applicable) and/or damage hoses. But all of the ones that do not have pressure points require special tools to install, and are a PITA to remove. Wonder which ones you have. At any rate, don't think we have any plastic pieces where radiator hoses attach, so guess we could get away using worm-type clamps, but want to hear your answer. When I need to remove a hose or more, I want to replace O-rings, hoses, and clamps too. Thank you in advance for the info. |
|
dkim213
Full Member
Posts: 203
Likes: 77
Registered: Jan 15, 2019 11:04:09 GMT -7
|
Post by dkim213 on Sept 7, 2019 11:16:19 GMT -7
I haven’t had issues with worm screw clamps. There are MANY configurations of them. You could see some varieties on McMaster-Carr.
The OE pinch clamps are made by oetiker. They use oetiker pliers to crimp them. It’s pretty easy and called for by hose and fitting manufacturers like Parker.
Here’s a video if you can live through it:
|
|
Kameo
Full Member
Posts: 196
Likes: 70
Registered: Aug 14, 2017 4:12:27 GMT -7
|
Post by Kameo on Sept 8, 2019 12:51:21 GMT -7
First time I see that leak; obviously a defective hose. Thank you for letting us know that's another potential leak. A common leak on earlier bikes is from the O-ring connecting that metal tube to the engine (not sure if the other metal tube is an issue too). Since you need to drain the coolant to replace that hose, might as well replace the O-ring at the other end of the metal tube, since it'll most likely leak, and soon. They should be cheap, and there will be minimum extra labor involved. Yamaha reportedly upgraded those O-rings (not sure when), so they shouldn't fail again. Not sure if the other metal hose leaks or not; hopefully somebody else can chime in on that, so you can also order it if needed. Good luck. Have heard mention of a perishing O-Ring but never any more info than that...  Is it any of the above o-rings that goes...2, 5,.... |
|
Kameo
Full Member
Posts: 196
Likes: 70
Registered: Aug 14, 2017 4:12:27 GMT -7
|
Post by Kameo on Aug 2, 2020 23:55:36 GMT -7
Since replacing the inlet hose as per my original post/thread... I've been caught out with the dreaded O-Ring gremlin while out on a 2up tour, 5 months after the inlet hose went. And now today while working on the bike I noticed the radiator outlet hose has perished in the same way, 3 months since the O-ring died. 8+ weeks for Yamaha to get part in, last time they said 5 weeks it took 8 so this time it will take 12 weeks for outlet hose - not due to covid - just the way it is in Australia. So for anyone looking to avoid these 3 problems via preventative work I'd consider just replacing all 3 components at 20,000km's. Not sure why but it looked a hell of a lot more like oil when I touched it than coolant. Either the hose has broken down and is exhibiting oil like goop or gasket...?   |
|
gofastdontdie
New Member
Posts: 1
Likes: 2
Registered: May 2, 2023 14:44:26 GMT -7
|
Post by gofastdontdie on May 2, 2023 14:52:48 GMT -7
Hey Guys, Thank you for the info here, I had a really weird leak that I could not find for the love of me, but after riding the radiator would always be missing coolant. Overflow was working fine, excess coolant was coming out, but when it cooled down it wasn't sucking liquid back from the reservoir. I figured it's a tiny leak somewhere at the top of the system. I ended up replacing the O-rings in this diagram (2,5), don't forget to grease up the rings before installing. I also replaced the radiator cap, reservoir cap, and the tiny overflow hose that connects the radiator top into the reservoir cap. I have aftermarket radiator hoses, with screw clamps, so just made sure they were tight. I check the radiator after cooling down and it wasn't missing a drop anymore!! Tip: make sure you let the air out with the bolt on the water pump, also turn on the (cold) engine with the radiator cap off, fill up to full and close. |
|
