csmith52016
New Member
Posts: 28
Registered: Jan 4, 2019 21:22:36 GMT -7
|
Post by csmith52016 on Aug 23, 2019 23:08:04 GMT -7
The control blocks, with the switches, have started to fade from being in the sun. I am seeing what looks like fibers in the blocks. How do I make them look like new again?
|
|
Sponsored Ad
|
Deleted
Posts: 0
Registered: Apr 28, 2024 21:23:40 GMT -7
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 24, 2019 11:40:39 GMT -7
I don't have that problem, but could you please tell us how much sun exposure we're talking about here? How many months or years under the elements? Also some pics would help  . At any rate, I'd start with common products like 'Back to Black', followed by 303, which is a great plastic/rubber protectant. Hope somebody else can provide better help. |
|
|
|
Post by RedAndBlack on Aug 24, 2019 12:19:53 GMT -7
I'd be very curious to see pics!
|
|
csmith52016
New Member
Posts: 28
Registered: Jan 4, 2019 21:22:36 GMT -7
|
Post by csmith52016 on Aug 24, 2019 14:21:18 GMT -7
It was in the south Florida sun for 1.5 years. I keep washing it and waxing certain areas, but those blocks look faded and they appear to have fibers running through them when in the sunshine.
|
|
fastfed
Junior Member
Posts: 79
Likes: 20
Registered: Jul 30, 2019 16:13:07 GMT -7
|
Post by fastfed on Aug 26, 2019 8:38:52 GMT -7
heat gun usually does the trick, plastics are made from oils and the heat gun actually brings the oils to the top on plastics and make them look new again. It takes time but I did trucks bumpers and other trim, so the controls would be nothing on a bike. just be sure not to get too close and melt things. Another trick is ATF fluid, they have cleaners in them that do a similar thing, it works within the plastics and makes them look brand new This was very faded and I used just the ATF fluid   go heavy with it and buff off excess and keep buffing until no longer slippery . it does stay for a long time but will come back somewhat, the heat gun is the more permanent solution |
|
|
|
Post by thefinn on Aug 27, 2019 6:48:38 GMT -7
Heatgun is indeed the best solution. The deep black color of plastics is the oil. Heat it up and it releases new oil to the surface, so basically restores it to brand new.
Other option is a simple bumper/trim product, but those are nowhere near pernament.
Some sealant with Silica in it maybe works as well. What is good about that ptoduct is that you can use it anywhere on the bike like a wax, and it gives way more gloss, hydrophobicity (if thats a word) and lasts longer than a wax.
|
|
Deleted
Posts: 0
Registered: Apr 28, 2024 21:23:40 GMT -7
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 27, 2019 10:40:57 GMT -7
I've never tried a heatgun on plastic, for the fear of melting it. It'd be nice for the OP to hear some specific tips on how to approach that risky alternative. I'd ask at least these questions: Which temperature do you set the heatgun to? How close to the point of melting do you need to heat the plastic to 'heal' it? How quickly (or slowly) do you need to heat it, meaning how many inches away you put the heatgun? When/how do you know the job is done (does plastic look wet, just changes color before your eyes, etc)? And at that point, if you touch the plastic, would you embed your finger print, meaning it's at the beginnings of melting, or it's before that? Do you cool it with water when done, or wait until it cools down on its own? I'd like details like that, to make a more informed decision if I'm willing to risk the part just to look more black . I'd have liked to try that method on my modded front sprocket cover (removed the inserts), before I reinstalled it. But I didn't find any details on how to do it, so passed on it. The good news is it sits low on the bike, so looks perfect with just 'Back to Black'. |
|
dkim213
Full Member
Posts: 203
Likes: 77
Registered: Jan 15, 2019 11:04:09 GMT -7
|
Post by dkim213 on Aug 27, 2019 10:49:52 GMT -7
I've never tried a heatgun on plastic, for the fear of melting it. It'd be nice for the OP to hear some specific tips on how to approach that risky alternative. I'd ask at least these questions: Which temperature do you set the heatgun to? How close to the point of melting do you need to heat the plastic to 'heal' it? How quickly (or slowly) do you need to heat it, meaning how many inches away you put the heatgun? When/how do you know the job is done (does plastic look wet, just changes color before your eyes, etc)? And at that point, if you touch the plastic, would you embed your finger print, meaning it's at the beginnings of melting, or it's before that? Do you cool it with water when done, or wait until it cools down on its own? I'd like details like that, to make a more informed decision if I'm willing to risk the part just to look more black . I'd have liked to try that method on my modded front sprocket cover (removed the inserts), before I reinstalled it. But I didn't find any details on how to do it, so passed on it. The good news is it sits low on the bike, so looks perfect with just 'Back to Black'. I’ve never heard of this before. I just used the plastic restore stuff. So your comment had me curious as to HOW you do it. I watched this on YouTube: |
|
|
|
Post by RedAndBlack on Aug 27, 2019 14:28:11 GMT -7
Wow that's incredible!
|
|
|
|
Post by thefinn on Aug 31, 2019 23:24:24 GMT -7
Thats indeed how to do it. As you can see its quite obvious when its done and you can move to the next area.
The only thing id be worried about is the buttons, i have no idea what plastic they are made of nor their melting point...
|
|
theculturalattache
Full Member
Posts: 127
Likes: 29
Registered: Jun 2, 2018 15:45:08 GMT -7
|
Post by theculturalattache on Sept 1, 2019 6:04:57 GMT -7
303 protectant really is a great product.
|
|
. At any rate, I'd start with common products like 'Back to Black', followed by 303, which is a great plastic/rubber protectant. Hope somebody else can provide better help.
