macdaddy113
New Member
Posts: 2
Registered: Nov 24, 2018 10:06:09 GMT -7
|
Post by macdaddy113 on Aug 3, 2019 14:02:15 GMT -7
Hi guys first post. I recently spun a rod bearing in my 2017 FZ10 with 9,500 miles on it. I kept trying to get more top end power out of it thus it failing in the top of the revs at 170mph lol I had a sprint race filter, cat delete and stock can when flashed on dyno to make 158hp@11.5 and 81ft/lbs@9.2.. I have an engine builder that can rebuild this engine back to prime performance no problem but thats not the route I'm most interested in. Ive been looking into an R1 engine swap but then I'll have an extra engine left over (might not be a bad thing lol) My question here is can the 2017 FZ10 engine case be rebuilt with 2018 R1 engine parts to be the same as the R1 engine? I've checked the case part #'s and they are the same #'s but start with 2 different letters. Everything else on the case seems to be the same other than that. also I'm pretty sure I'll need the ECU and other components just not sure exactly what. If anybody has any insight i would appreciate it. Thanks!!
image uploader
|
|
|
Post by hooli on Aug 3, 2019 22:02:39 GMT -7
Head is different. I'd just get a used R1 engine and swap it out.
|
|
superspirit
Full Member
Posts: 214
Likes: 84
Registered: Oct 2, 2017 14:59:43 GMT -7
|
Post by superspirit on Aug 4, 2019 5:06:34 GMT -7
Crank and rods are different also. The R1 bottom end is built for higher revs than the FZ/MT. Cases might accept the R1 parts, but it would be much easier to just put a used R1M engine in.
|
|
Deleted
Posts: 0
Registered: Apr 26, 2024 20:07:22 GMT -7
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 4, 2019 11:44:43 GMT -7
Can't help you, but sounds like a fun project . Hey, out of curiosity, how did you achieve 170 mph: re-gearing, or increased rev limit? Since you spun a bearing, I assume the latter, but how many more rpm were you running? I think our FZ/MT-10s have the rev limit set at 12,200, and R1s at 14,500. But as mentioned, R1s have different heads. And probably different everything else internal too, like pistons, crank, etc. Finally, I think it'd be cheaper to just buy an R1. But if not on the cards, I'd also suggest getting a wrecked R1 with everything you need (ECU, harness, etc), and start there. Plus might as well try to incorporate at least some of the IMU features too . Good luck with your project, and please keep us posted.
|
|
macdaddy113
New Member
Posts: 2
Registered: Nov 24, 2018 10:06:09 GMT -7
|
Post by macdaddy113 on Aug 5, 2019 15:35:20 GMT -7
Thanks for the replies guys. Yea looking a little more into it i think just doing the R1 swap is going to be my best route. I just love the feel of the FZ to much to give up on this bike. re gearing +1/-2 and also upped the revs 500 to 12,200. I believe stock the limiter was kicking in around 11,700. The woodcraft clipons to help get lower and weighing in at 135lbs helped me get her up to 170. i know i should just get an R1 but i just love passing my friends while sitting up on a naked bike lol they hate it Will be posting about the swap here in the near future. should be a good time.
|
|
Deleted
Posts: 0
Registered: Apr 26, 2024 20:07:22 GMT -7
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 7, 2019 14:47:31 GMT -7
That's honestly your best bet. By the time you're done with such a swap, you'd lose a lot more money than just swapping bikes. With so many electronic differences, you'd run into lots of trouble, and it'd be too late to back down, just adding money to a bottomless barrel.
On a side note, the rev limiter on our bikes is 'officially' 12,200rpm, but you're saying it's actually less than even the 11,800 redline? Interesting. I haven't taken mine to redline yet, but will bounce it off the limiter one of these days just to see where it does that.
|
|