Any SHORTER peg feeler replacement options?

I actually installed Super Duke 1290R pegs and have loved every second of it. Flat with a slight angle forward. Only took a slight bit of use from a Dremel to fit perfectly. After fitment I purchased some flat black spray paint and painted the area that was grounded down. In fact, now that they are installed you can’t even see where I painted. Installed factory spring and retaining pin and been riding with them ever since. Really nice upgrade IMO. ,

I have an update. The aftermarket feelers didn't work (much smaller thread size)... but kept the rods with circlips, which are of the exact size needed (no play), and look much better than the longer rods with crappy cotter pins (a b*tch to remove, by the way). Since the bike is perfect the way it is, decided not to mess with different pegs, so went to my local dealer to find the right feelers. They let me mess with their new bikes, and found out Kawasaki uses smaller threads, but Suzukis are identical to ours (M8x1.25), so ordered the smallest feelers, which belong to the Boulevard C90. Will post pictures and p/n when I get them next week. They're less than half as long, so perfect for my needs. The Graves slip-on might hit before the short feeler, but it was going to be the case without feelers anyway. He he. Won't be pushing the bike that hard, so a little extra clearance from stock is all I need, and bike will look OEM (nothing missing ).

Got some interesting info, based on my 'plywood' cornering clearance test, which assumes front and rear suspension compressing at the same rate during cornering, which should be true of a solo rider of the factory target weight, which I believe is 150 to 160 lbs (I'm 160). Everything that follows is based on that premise, so keep that in mind . Heavier riders, and other situations, might compress the suspension differently. Moving on. Just like I knew based on other aggressive riders' input, the stock peg feelers are way too long for such a rider. The good news is with the feelers I installed (roughly half the size of stock), they'd still touch before anything, which is just what I wanted. But as expected, not by much. Surprisingly, I didn't realize my left spool/slider (at the rearmost spool position) would touch way sooner than the peg feeler (probably even the stock one), since it's sitting much more offset to the left due to the chain, so watch out for that folks. I moved it to the forward position (which is a little higher too), and it's just perfect. The peg would touch first, and about 1/4" later, both the shift lever and slider would follow. At the right side, after the peg feeler, also about 1/4" later, it'd be both the rear brake lever and exhaust shield (not the Graves slip-on, as I feared). Graves also confirmed that, based on their tests. The right rear slider at the front spool position wouldn't even touch in a fall, since the muffler is sticking out more. And in the rear position it'd be the first thing to touch by quite a bit, so no dice. so left it at the front position as an ornament, for symmetry's sake . Will look at actual axle sliders now, for better protection, but haven't seen any, due to that big nut.

As a side comment, it dawned on me during my test why the peg feelers are so long (at least for us solo/light riders). They need to, to prevent touching hard parts with the bike fully loaded (349 lbs of total cargo, so maybe a 199-lb rider, and 150-lb passenger). And yes, with the rear loaded like that, hard parts would touch a lot sooner (especially the exhaust side), so feelers need to be as long as needed under the worst possible conditions to avoid touching hard parts first. Makes sense, right? But most of us do NOT need them that long, especially if we never carry a passenger. Similarly, we don't need to air the tires to 36/42 either, since that's for a fully loaded bike as well (I use 33/36). Anyway, my point is only for somebody like me (solo rider, 160 lbs) would be safe to shorten the feelers like I did (or remove them altogether), so do it at your own risk.

Now, if you want even more cornering clearance, getting a mid-pipe with no shield achieves that. But you also need to relocate both the shift lever and brake pedal, meaning rearsets. And also no spools or sliders at any of the 4 spool locations, especially on the left side, which is significantly more likely to touch, as mentioned above. Now you'd basically have hypersport cornering clearance, but no peg feelers at all. If you want to leave spools in place, you'd have to make your own 'plywood test' to see how you feel about them.

Finally, I was surprised at the amount of lean angle our bike has with my short feelers, it's A LOT. I should never get close to that given I won't track this bike, so not worried anymore. But for those with enough track experience, and capable of touching them if needed, it's a safety margin worth having IMO. If you corner properly, meaning putting basically all of your weight on the inside peg, when you touch a feeler, the peg doesn't just fold willingly; it kicks the bike out, and you have to put a lot more countersteering force to overcome the extra 160# (or whatever you weigh) on the peg, and that reaction time eats up precious asphalt you may not have. So if you can safely avoid that potential disaster in the first place, much better. But without feelers, hard parts would touch first on both sides, and that's not safe either. So glad I did this peg feeler mod, which gives you maximum cornering clearance, but with the safety of touching before anything else . If you carry a passenger, and/or you don't/can't ride that aggressively, it makes zero sense to do it. This is only for aggressive solo riders. Hope this helps.

Not OEM enough for him.