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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2019 16:15:52 GMT -7
I've been looking for a stupid 1A SAE-to-USB charger, and just can't find any; all are 2.1A and above, which could fry my iPhone 6S+. Then it occur to me I could also replace the stock 12V socket with something like this: www.amazon.com/dp/B00W3W6AMU/Has anybody done this? I'm curious if it's a strictly plug-and-play swap. The diameter seems to be same, but my main concern is the connectors, since I don't want to splice any wires. If the same, I'd buy one of those things, but not the linked one, since all photos show 3.1A/3.1A, which is what I'd probably get, and not the 1.0A/2.1A that the description says. Have 2 other options. The best would be a SAE to USB cable, since I have the pigtail right below the seat (to charge the battery), but none is available in 1.0A, which is what I need. The last option would be to just buy a 12V to USB adapter, stick it on the stock location, and buy a 10' iPhone cable and run it to be back, where my tailbag is, to keep my phone charging while using music/GPS. Thanks gang. JC
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harry76
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Post by harry76 on Jun 24, 2019 19:02:03 GMT -7
The phone only uses the current required, it won't hurt if the charger is capable of putting out more.
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Post by RedAndBlack on Jun 24, 2019 19:58:28 GMT -7
You're definitely not going to fry your Iphone with a 2.1 A charger. There are protection circuits within the IPhones to prevent this. The IPhone could run a bit hotter while charging, which some argue can reduce battery life over time (talking years, not months) but you definitely won't fry your IPhone.
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blake7
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Post by blake7 on Jun 24, 2019 21:23:15 GMT -7
I replaced mine last week. Very straight forward, no altering of the fairing/mount required but you will need to cut the wires off of the OEM one and then fit crimp connectors to connect on to the new 12v Outlet. No issues charging my phone/sat nav etc.
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Post by hooli on Jun 25, 2019 5:28:07 GMT -7
Why not just use a plug-in adapter that are pretty much available everywhere?
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techsniffer
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Post by techsniffer on Jun 28, 2019 8:21:53 GMT -7
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paulb63
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Post by paulb63 on Jul 16, 2019 13:30:28 GMT -7
Also 12V DC Aux is only fused @ 2A anyway. (page 8-194 in the service manual). So no point in trying to build something that can do more than 2A with out heavier cabling back to the battery / bigger fuse etc..
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ez2remember
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Post by ez2remember on Jul 23, 2019 7:56:49 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Jul 23, 2019 20:31:45 GMT -7
Very straight forward, no altering of the fairing/mount required but you will need to cut the wires off of the OEM one and then fit crimp connectors to connect on to the new 12v Outlet. No issues charging my phone/sat nav etc. Question for you: How exactly is the 12V outlet connected to the bike? With a connector, or wire terminals? I wouldn't mind cutting off wires if they're not part of the main harness, meaning they end up in a connector somewhere upstream. But if I have to cut a connector that is part of the main harness, then I'd pass cutting any wires. The only solution would be to find a mating connector so the main harness stays untouched. At any rate, do you know which is the case with our bike? Finally found a unit with 1.0 and 2.1A: www.amazon.com/Qunqi-Charger-Socket-Outlet-Carvans/dp/B00VHC04NI/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=flush+usb+charger&qid=1563925081&refinements=p_72%3A2491149011&rnid=2491147011&s=wireless&sr=1-14Finally, what did you have to remove to get to the back of it? Thx. And yes, if everything fails, I'd just get a flush-mount USB adapter, but prefer a permanent solution, since you can't leave it inserted unprotected. By the way, a 12V outlet with only 2A is useless for anything other than a USB charger, hence wanting a permanent one. I have a SAE connector to charge the battery that can be used for anything else. Thanks gang.
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mrcdharwood
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Post by mrcdharwood on Jul 24, 2019 15:07:57 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Jul 24, 2019 21:15:29 GMT -7
Excellent. Thanks a million MrCDHarwood. Great news those wires have a connector, so no need to even disconnect it. I'll do exactly as the video: just cut the wires and solder/crimp the new terminals right there. It seems to be it's not even necessary to remove that air scoop. Will order the gizmo now, and install it when it gets here. But also need to order those solder thingies that require a heat gun to join wires, since the socket comes with wires already, so rather than crimp terminals, will just join wires. Thanks again brother.
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techsniffer
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Post by techsniffer on Jul 27, 2019 10:54:41 GMT -7
I bought the one I linked previously in the blue, install took like 5 minutes and it works great, and now I can fast charge my phone while riding. Not a bad $15 investment.
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jonsky7
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Post by jonsky7 on Aug 1, 2019 10:57:02 GMT -7
Also 12V DC Aux is only fused @ 2A anyway. (page 8-194 in the service manual). So no point in trying to build something that can do more than 2A with out heavier cabling back to the battery / bigger fuse etc.. Yes but that's 12V at 2A, or 24Watts using power=Volts x Amps, So at 5V that same circuit could provide 4.8Amps, assuming it's lossless. So two 2.1 Amp 5V outlets only comsume 21Watts and shouldn't blow the fuse.
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oldbob
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Post by oldbob on Aug 1, 2019 17:59:35 GMT -7
Hi, I was wondering if you had actually purchased this item? I went to Amazon from your link and bought 2 of these because they looked like very nice adapters. Unfortunately, they seem to be junk. Both units I purchased were inaccurate displaying the battery voltage with nothing connected to the charging ports. I checked this with two different very expensive Fluke digital multimeters. I could live with that error knowing what it was but then when connecting my iPhone to just one of the ports, the displayed battery voltage dropped even more rendering the device useless as a battery indicator. I've worked in electronics for 45 years and suspect this to be a poorly designed device and would not recommend it. That's why I was wondering if you had actually purchased one and had a better experience with it. Regards, Bob
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 2, 2019 10:43:35 GMT -7
Hey Oldbob, glad to read your negative review of those sockets because I was seriously thinnking of buying it due to the voltage meter (even though it didn't have a 1A port), but ended up ordering the unit I posted (post #9). It worked perfectly, but just like other similar ones, it was a bit too large to fit thru the stock opening, so rather than force it in, I sanded the hole from the back until it was a little tight, but without having to force it in. When the cover is in place, it hides the blue LED when power is on. I removed the harness, cut the wires at the base of the socket, cut the red and black leads supplied with the unit, spliced them together leaving the harness at the same length as factory, soldered the leads once twisted together (didn't like the job due to solder not having resin flux in it, but not critical, since leads were twisted), put shrink-tubing over the 2 soldered leads, then put electrical tape starting with the stock sleeve, towards the terminals, just like the original harness was, so it looks factory, and the 2 terminals have a rubber sleeve, to as close to waterproof as you can get with blade terminals. Now I have both 1A and 2.1A, just like I wanted. All I need is a mount in case I ever need my phone there, but since it's a regular iPhone 6S+, I'd have to buy some kind of cover in case it rains. HATE mounts, so will look for the smallest BUT safe one I can get for that phone, in case I need it. Thank you for all the help here gang. Since the fuse is just 2A (where is it?), the outlet was useless for anything other than USB charging, so might as well have the right adapter . A couple of pics below.
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techsniffer
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Registered: Feb 22, 2019 21:48:03 GMT -7
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Post by techsniffer on Aug 4, 2019 17:40:43 GMT -7
Hi, I was wondering if you had actually purchased this item? I went to Amazon from your link and bought 2 of these because they looked like very nice adapters. Unfortunately, they seem to be junk. Both units I purchased were inaccurate displaying the battery voltage with nothing connected to the charging ports. I checked this with two different very expensive Fluke digital multimeters. I could live with that error knowing what it was but then when connecting my iPhone to just one of the ports, the displayed battery voltage dropped even more rendering the device useless as a battery indicator. I've worked in electronics for 45 years and suspect this to be a poorly designed device and would not recommend it. That's why I was wondering if you had actually purchased one and had a better experience with it. Regards, Bob
Yes I have, and it works exactly as I expected. As for the accuracy of the voltage readout on the display.. I honestly couldn't care less, I didn't buy it to be a voltage indicator but to actually charge devices on the go and it has done that very well including fast charging my Samsung.
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oldbob
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Post by oldbob on Aug 5, 2019 13:17:01 GMT -7
Hey Oldbob, glad to read your negative review of those sockets because I was seriously thinnking of buying it due to the voltage meter (even though it didn't have a 1A port), but ended up ordering the unit I posted (post #9). It worked perfectly, but just like other similar ones, it was a bit too large to fit thru the stock opening, so rather than force it in, I sanded the hole from the back until it was a little tight, but without having to force it in. When the cover is in place, it hides the blue LED when power is on. I removed the harness, cut the wires at the base of the socket, cut the red and black leads supplied with the unit, spliced them together leaving the harness at the same length as factory, soldered the leads once twisted together (didn't like the job due to solder not having resin flux in it, but not critical, since leads were twisted), put shrink-tubing over the 2 soldered leads, then put electrical tape starting with the stock sleeve, towards the terminals, just like the original harness was, so it looks factory, and the 2 terminals have a rubber sleeve, to as close to waterproof as you can get with blade terminals. Now I have both 1A and 2.1A, just like I wanted. All I need is a mount in case I ever need my phone there, but since it's a regular iPhone 6S+, I'd have to buy some kind of cover in case it rains. HATE mounts, so will look for the smallest BUT safe one I can get for that phone, in case I need it. Thank you for all the help here gang. Since the fuse is just 2A (where is it?), the outlet was useless for anything other than USB charging, so might as well have the right adapter . A couple of pics below. Thanks. What I did like about the units I dissed was the fact that it screwed very nicely and tightly into the factory hole. Unfortunately, the ability to accurately display the voltage at the battery was as important to me as having the charging ports. I've had charging system problems with other bikes and of course we've all had batteries die on us unexpectedly. When a battery is getting ready to die, it's voltage will usually drop and if your charging system has a problem, you want to know that as well. I suspect that the circuity inside this unit is nothing more than a resistor divider off the battery and has no 5 volt regulating ability for the charge ports. This is why the battery voltage display drops when a USB device is connected. Put too much load on the charging port and you may get smoke as someone mentioned in the Amazon reviews. I plan to remove this unit from my bike and am researching a better replacement. The key point to look out for is if the battery display drops when a USB device is connected. A motorcycle battery should swamp the 5volt load a USB port puts on it. Whether the bike is running or not. Bob
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 5, 2019 14:31:44 GMT -7
I hear you on that. The good news on my unit is it looks OEM, and it's the only one I found with a 1A and 2.1A ports. I just sanded around the hole a little bit to avoid a stress fitment, and tightened the back plastic nut with a screwdriver, but not too tight. I needed to move the unit to align it perfectly once installed, and it required some force, but no need to loosen the nut, which is exactly the way I wanted it. The stock unit has a tab that prevents any movement, but it's not needed. If the phone has a good charge, all you need is 1A to maintain the charge, and charge it slowly. If low, you can use the 2.1A port, but my old iPhone 6S+ came with a 1A socket charger, so prefer to stick to that. If you don't want/need a 1A port, you have a myriad of choices ... but I'd avoid the fast-charging dual-3A sockets, since a 2A fuse @ 12V equals 4.8A @ 5V, not 6A. Good luck with your new socket.
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