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Post by thefinn on May 18, 2019 6:48:11 GMT -7
Maybe look into the FZ-07. It is a much smaller bike (youll notice how your elbows nearly touch you knees) but its tons of fun in the city, especially in traffic if filtering/splitting is practiced in your area. You can turn it effortlessly on a dime, extremely agile bike. A lot more torque in the very low revs, close to impossible to stall. It does however desperately need uograded suspensions so be ready to put money on that, unless you really are kust I think the problem is mostly that you got into the 10 thinking of it like a sophisticated tourer/commuter more than a unforgiving beast. The FZ-07 doesnt fool you. It tells you what it is and youll have tons of fun with it without risking going to jail every ride
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lotust251
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Registered: Jun 1, 2019 5:39:49 GMT -7
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Post by lotust251 on Jun 1, 2019 6:00:41 GMT -7
Mt 2019 MT10 lugs at low speeds too. It hard to resist taking the center and going slow between cars and stay behind someone. The engine temps also get so hot. I saw 220* on a 708 day and when cursing over 50-60 it drops down to 160*.
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techsniffer
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Registered: Feb 22, 2019 21:48:03 GMT -7
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Post by techsniffer on Jun 5, 2019 18:25:42 GMT -7
The 2WDW flash smoothed out the low speed for me, much much better on the twitchiness
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dndfindley
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Registered: May 18, 2018 22:21:04 GMT -7
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Post by dndfindley on Jun 5, 2019 21:30:55 GMT -7
Mt 2019 MT10 lugs at low speeds too. It hard to resist taking the center and going slow between cars and stay behind someone. The engine temps also get so hot. I saw 220* on a 708 day and when cursing over 50-60 it drops down to 160*. In reference to the temp's you saw - yeah - that's normal. It cools down quickly once you upshift and get your speed back up.
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xorbe
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Registered: Jun 16, 2019 13:34:36 GMT -7
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Post by xorbe on Jun 29, 2019 0:13:28 GMT -7
I had this same "issue" except Street Triple 765 vs Ninja 650. The Ninja is sooo easy to launch quickly and reliably and with stealth, easy clutch feedback, and never stalls. The 765 on the other hand, easy to stall, grabby clutch, you can't stealth launch reliably as it requires revving, etc. Once moving the 765 is gone, but damn it's a pita to launch with that tall sporty 1st gear and little flywheel effect.
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scurvydawg
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Registered: Mar 23, 2019 7:25:30 GMT -7
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Post by scurvydawg on Jul 5, 2019 16:08:05 GMT -7
1st Post. I have a 2019 MT-10, Hindle 3/4 system, 2WDW flash. This thing rides so easy at low and slow for me. I have only one other bike that beats it at low and slow and that is a Z125. I do have an FZ1 and a Road Glide, the MT-10 is WAY easier to handle at low speed.
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Post by achrista on Jul 5, 2019 17:28:30 GMT -7
Considering installing a recluse clutch on my bike. Suffered through a 16 hr ride from Virginia to Maine through rush hour traffic plus accidents in Baltimore, New York, and the entire state of Connecticut. My left hand was on fire the whole time... Anyway, using my FZ10 for touring and track days both, because it can, and that's all there is to it. Still, recluse clutch would fix all of my slow speed woes. My husband on his 2014 FJR was absolutely fine the whole time... 😤 😂 I'm doing va to maine, but I'm taking multiple days to go through PA NY VT and NH. Riding 95 the whole way would be miserable no matter your clutch.
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mudpit
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Registered: Feb 16, 2019 10:00:46 GMT -7
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Post by mudpit on Oct 4, 2020 11:51:59 GMT -7
Yes I have that same problem, I had the ecu flashed and still hesitating when letting out clutch riding in 1st around 2000 Rpm In slow traffic
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Post by rracerfz10 on Oct 5, 2020 17:36:49 GMT -7
Ugh.... here again.... just got back from an hour scoot on the FJR...totally love this bike and have for 16 years straight . I immediately got on the MT for another run. Stalled it 3 times in a row trying to get out of my driveway. What a different bike. I have lowered the FJR bars as I wanted a sportier feel and when sitting on the MT it was like what?!?! Feels like sitting in a pew in church. Power galore for sure, light as hell in comparison too. We all have our styles and riding preferences. My heart continues to tell me that the MT may just no be for me. Found myself speeding all over the place. It's soooo fast. Yes you can change modes etc but what's the point of having a Ferrari unless you open it up? I am glad I kept both bikes at this point and so far am using them as simply different experiences.... which they are. Not giving up at this point.... just sitting on a wild bull day in and day out may not be what I'm looking for. The FJR is predictable wih linear power that's enough to put a smile on my face every time.... the MT is more of a "oh my.... what the hell did I buy!?" 🤪 Have you checked the slack on your clutch cable? It’ll stretch quite a bit during break in and a little after. I noticed it makes a big difference on low speed controlability if it’s even a little out of adjustment. Also doesn’t the FJR have a hydronic clutch? A lot of the bikes I’ve owned, mostly Honda’s had hydronic clutches and a cable actuated clutch takes some getting used to. Also the decel fuel cut on the factory tube sucks. It made the throttle response way too anarchy on/off for me. I see highly recommend a 2wdw flash just to smooth out the throttle. You don’t need to change anything else on the bike if you don’t want but I’d recommend wiring your EXUP valve open in conjunction with that option on a flash. Call them at 2wdw they are awesome to talk to and will answer any and every question you could possibly have.
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mt10gaz
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Post by mt10gaz on Oct 12, 2020 6:59:43 GMT -7
aavmann,What you need is a Boosterplug,my other bike is a tracer 900 and they both hunt and surge at slow speeds,the mt10 being much worse,then i got a used boosterplug for the tracer[no brainer as they have a lifetime warranty] it takes 10 mins to fit,all bikes run really lean low down because of the emissions and the yamahas seem to suffer more than some.The boosterplug fools the ECU into thinking it's 20 degrees cooler ambient temp so the ecu compensates by making it richer in the lower revs,how it was supposed to run,and as a result my tracer is basically cured it runs so smooth low down no jerkiness or hesitation,can't wait to get one for my mt10 but no funds at the minute.They are £130 so about $170.Also pull the clutch lever in and out several times as its warming up with the gearbox being high up it takes a while for the oil to get into the plates,that will help with the stalling and clunking in first gear.
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dougiequick
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Registered: Jun 21, 2023 1:21:32 GMT -7
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Post by dougiequick on Apr 12, 2024 20:58:38 GMT -7
One problem riding ultra slow on 2023 MT-10 is how tall the damn gearing is! Yamaha made even taller starting in 2022 generation I believe (smaller rear sprocket than previous gens?) They did to improve fuel mileage but of course every upside has a downside....When I finally need new chain and sprockets I will definitely gear it down a bit...and likely go to smaller 520 chain/sprocket size ...I cant see tossing perfectly good OE stuff I doubt improvements will be spectacular but I envision lower gearing will make taking off easier as well as slow speed stuff....which I rarely do on my 10 anyway....just saying gearing down a little could help some folks?
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dougiequick
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Post by dougiequick on Apr 12, 2024 21:17:15 GMT -7
Honda is introducing the "E-clutch" 2024 starting I think on their CB650? But later offering on larger models also. The E-clutch is totally separate technology compared to various things like dual clutch or CV transmission or recluse clutches etc instead the E clutch uses totally same ol clutch and transmission as before with ONE difference! There is a robotic component using two tiny electric motors along with a mechanism that allows the ECU to disengage the clutch FOR YOU! Meaning when the E-Clutch is turned on the rider NEVER has to touch his/her clutch lever! Even starting and stopping! The ECU monitors both wheel speed and engine rpm AND whether your toe is putting tension on the shift lever and ALWAYS has your back for employing the clutch! How cool is THAT! With spot on programming it SHOULD make slow speed work a breeze also because remember it is monitoring wheel speed and rpm so it "knows" when to slip the clutch to keep the bike from stalling! Last year I basically lost the end of my left middle finger between the last two joints and a hand surgeon sewed it all back on...but now I find the MT-10 clutch very hard to pull as well as painful after much clutching. But I still want a Liter bike so WHEN Honda finally puts the EClutch on their I4 liter bikes? I will be VERY interesting in trading the 10 in....yeah I know I will lose a few HP in the trade but at least the Honda has better MPG! AND since it is lower compression? no more premium! Which I mean as we all know here the FZ/ MT (EMPTY) are SUCH gas hogs! And besides do I REALLY need 165hp? I think 150 will probably suffice... Only thing I hate about the current naked Honda is it has fork mounted headlight rather than the superior Yamaha design where headlight and display is FRAME mounted
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vulcanator
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Post by vulcanator on May 19, 2024 11:03:49 GMT -7
I ride my 10 in slow speed traffic with no issue, down to walking pace if required. I'd say some more practice would help you out. As for the FJR, if I wasn't running a 2014 VFR800 it would be my second bike.
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wintersdark
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Post by wintersdark on Jun 8, 2024 15:37:45 GMT -7
IMHO the newer 2nd gen MT10's are tamer at low speeds. God knows, I let mine just pull itself along at idle doing parking lot drills all the time and it's smooth and flawless, and small throttle adjustments off idle are easy.
A little less so since the flash, as it's more aggressive with low rpm throttle, but it still idles with the throttle closed very smoothly.
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