And as for preload setting, I maxxed it out a while back.
From stoltec's report the oem spring is too soft for a rider of my type, approx 200 lbs geared and I concur. One day I'll outright upgrade it, but paying off the bike will come first and then carbon fiber wheels THEN a full suite of Ohlins.
From the dealership the preload was around 1/4 compressed in, then I tried 1/2, then to 3/4, then to maxxed out. All with a week or so of riding in between each adjustment.
I also swapped the oem dogbones back in, the raising up links just threw the bike off too much, too many compromises in ergonomics too. I got the answer I was after in the end, there will be no magic trick to emulate the setup I had on my fz1. The trail / rake differences and possibly wheelbase are not worth changing to me.
I did the same as per Dave Moss's direction. I agree...steering feels better but the biggest difference that I have seen, and the one that makes this mod SOOOO nice for me, is that the bike gets the power down with FAR LESS wheel lift. As mentioned in a few of my other threads, the wheelies were becoming annoying and I have less than 1000K on it. Mode 1, however, doesn't give a rat's ass what steering geometry you have or suspension settings, and sends the front skyward. Mode 2 with a nice hard roll-on, accelerates like crazy and very gently starts raising the front end. I only have a few hours of seat time with this change but absolutely love it so far. Easy to do too...
I just couldn't deal with those altered headlight and seat angles. I commute and hoon both on my FZ, I can't compromise either of those things. Can't justify re-padding the now discontinued " FZ-10 " comfort seat and don't think it possible to alter the headlight angles. I think an aftermarket upper / lower triple tree would be ideal for me. Ohlins all around are on the checklist so rear height wouldn't a problem.
Having read through this thread, something I will comment on is that there is no such thing as a "clean adjustment". In raising the rear ride hight via the linkage you will have made several adjustments at once without realising.
Anti-squat will have increased, swingarm angle has increased, this has in turn reduced the wheel base, rake will have decreased, trail will have decreased, centre of gravity will have moved, these are all things you need to think about when making adjustments.
People say to adjust 1 thing at a time, but what they don't tell you is 1 adjustment will adjust 3 or 4 other things, thats why top race teams make multiple adjustments at once. They have to offset the "unwanted" changes that have occurred in order to make the 1 change they do want, so they are truely making 1 change at a time, when most people "only" adjust preload they don't think about how this affects other aspects of the bike.
So it's something to keep in mind. Another thing I would say is start with the basics, linkage changes have massive effects on the bike. Stick with the KISS principal (Keep It Simple Stupid).
First start by getting the sag set correctly, if that means you need stiffer or softer springs, do that first and foremost. Then work with the dampening adjusters, after you have a reasonable baseline, if you want more weight on the front, look at riasing the forks through the yokes (tripple clamps) or raising the rear with shimms instead of linkage changes.
Make changes that will have minimal side effects with other settings, take lots of measurements before and after and if you raise the rear and notice it has changed 3 other measurements, make adjustments to put them back to how they were while still maintaining the 1 change you want, then test the bike, in the knowledge you have literally just changed 1 thing.
Something you'll also notice is the bike might not respond at all to huge changes in some things, but will change how it handles dramatically to minor changes in other things. Again that's something you will just find with experience, but to find these things you need to ensure each change you make only alters 1 thing at a time.
It's a long process and will take a lot of effort, but it's the proper way to do it. Making changes to linkages right off the bat without even getting the sag set and without taking into account all the side effects the linkage change will create will just set you up for an even longer process with even more headaches.