jakester
New Member
Posts: 5
Registered: Nov 13, 2018 7:32:00 GMT -7
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Post by jakester on Nov 30, 2018 7:41:35 GMT -7
Is there a physical difference (other than material type) to look for when trying to determine which bike a header came from? I would think that some of the R1 headers could be fairly tarnished that it could be hard to see the blue coloring but is there something else to look for to tell if a header is legit or not?
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Post by heathhudnall on Nov 30, 2018 9:53:44 GMT -7
The welds in the collectors of the Ti header are much smoother and nicer workmanship (robotship?) than the -10's stainless headers.
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jakester
New Member
Posts: 5
Registered: Nov 13, 2018 7:32:00 GMT -7
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Post by jakester on Nov 30, 2018 10:20:42 GMT -7
So from the exterior there isn't a physical difference between the two?
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Post by heathhudnall on Nov 30, 2018 11:26:28 GMT -7
So from the exterior there isn't a physical difference between the two? Not that I know of. I have both Ti R1M header on my FZ and the stainless one laying on a shelf. |
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jakester
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Posts: 5
Registered: Nov 13, 2018 7:32:00 GMT -7
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Post by jakester on Nov 30, 2018 12:13:03 GMT -7
Guess I was hoping to more easily identify the two. Well thanks for the help, I'll have to eye up the welds.
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Post by RedAndBlack on Nov 30, 2018 13:09:12 GMT -7
Check out the Stoltec Moto build thread. He has a picture of the two and shows how they are different. You can look inside the pipe at the Y section where the headers become one pipe and the R1M header is much more machined and welded better.
Also, as far as I'm aware, there's a difference between the R1M and regular R1 header. So make sure you're getting the headers off an R1M
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Post by heathhudnall on Nov 30, 2018 15:27:36 GMT -7
Check out the Stoltec Moto build thread. He has a picture of the two and shows how they are different. You can look inside the pipe at the Y section where the headers become one pipe and the R1M header is much more machined and welded better. Also, as far as I'm aware, there's a difference between the R1M and regular R1 header. So make sure you're getting the headers off an R1M I believe the R1 header isn't Ti, I may be wrong. I made sure I got one from an R1M. Its half the weight, so it's obviously Ti, but it doesn't have to pretty heat patterns. It's kind of uniformly grey/blue.   |
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ghostrider1127
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Registered: Sept 11, 2016 7:06:10 GMT -7
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Post by ghostrider1127 on Dec 2, 2018 7:04:59 GMT -7
To be clear about wrong informations : The R1s (only us market) and mt10/fz10 header are stainless steel Spare part number(b60 1460200) R1 or R1m are titan , also the same item Spare part number (2cr 1460200) Weight difference it´s 1,1 kg Clean finish inside 0,3 mm lower o.d. welding on bypass 2-3 Left TI ; right SS  R1-R1m  R1s-Mt10-Fz10  And if you asking , yes i´m the one that find out the direct swap in early 2016 (like the r1 master cylinder and few other parts). |
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jakester
New Member
Posts: 5
Registered: Nov 13, 2018 7:32:00 GMT -7
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Post by jakester on Dec 3, 2018 7:34:13 GMT -7
Thanks for the solid info.
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bhilker0604
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Posts: 41
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Registered: Feb 16, 2017 8:14:33 GMT -7
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Post by bhilker0604 on Dec 5, 2018 10:23:48 GMT -7
Check out the Stoltec Moto build thread. He has a picture of the two and shows how they are different. You can look inside the pipe at the Y section where the headers become one pipe and the R1M header is much more machined and welded better. Also, as far as I'm aware, there's a difference between the R1M and regular R1 header. So make sure you're getting the headers off an R1M I believe the R1 header isn't Ti, I may be wrong. I made sure I got one from an R1M. Its half the weight, so it's obviously Ti, but it doesn't have to pretty heat patterns. It's kind of uniformly grey/blue. |
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bhilker0604
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Likes: 8
Registered: Feb 16, 2017 8:14:33 GMT -7
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Post by bhilker0604 on Dec 5, 2018 10:27:19 GMT -7
Try wet sanding with 800 then 1000 and 1500-2000 grit paper then and metal polish and those ti headers should color nicely
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Post by heathhudnall on Dec 5, 2018 11:51:02 GMT -7
Try wet sanding with 800 then 1000 and 1500-2000 grit paper then and metal polish and those ti headers should color nicely Next time I take them off I'll try that. |
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