Oil level above max. What to do?

Personally, I'd leave it alone, it's not dramatically overfilled and you are going to change it at 600 miles anyway.

Hey guys. The last post I saw was Bigweb2001's, and I followed his advice... and glad I did, since about 1/3rd of a quart came out with level at top mark. I also took the opportunity to replace the stock drain plug with the GoldPlug I had ready for the 600-mile oil change. Tried to let excess oil drip out of the drain plug, but nothing came out until plug was out, so decided to change it. And no, with the front tire 1" off the ground, it basically makes no difference on the level, especially if you only fill to the lower (rear) of the 2 marks. Anyway, don't think the level was high enough for the crankshaft to hit the oil, and turn it into froth. But maybe enough to get some oil into the airbox. Won't know until I change the filter, but with only 38 miles, I agree there should be zero issues. Another thing is you cannot insert an oil extractor tube (or anything else, for that matter) from the oil cap to the sump folks, so draining from the drain plug is the only way to lower oil level. Finally, the only thing I didn't like about the GoldPlug magnetic drain plug is it protrudes a little below the headers, but it's still higher than the muffler/cat, so not a big deal. Thanks for all the input folks; greatly appreciated.

Start the motor , if oil level drops to a place where you can see it in the glass , its OK .. A little bit more oil doesn't harm your engine .
Factory recomendation is 10w40 - 15w50 . Anything between them could be used as 10w50 . Be use to use full synthetic.

I went with what the local dealer had in stock Yamalube 15w50, yeah just loosen that 6mm (I think ) drain and let the main vain drain for 1 second. I would do it cold so it comes out slower

My bike was like yours. You need to loosen/remove the drain plug. That's what I did. I took the opportunity to install a magnetic drain plug. With all the sight glass full of oil, it'd still be way above max when you do the plug swap, so don't worry about draining more than needed. And if you don't want to replace the plug, it'd be less mess... but you run the risk of a small leak by leaving the same crush washer. Or risk stripping theads by overtorquing. Therefore, what I'd do is replace the crush washer while you plug the hole with a thumb, and somebody helps you replacing it.

As for the rest of the oil, just let oil flow slowly over your (latex gloved) hand to a reservoir, until at the right level. I don't remember exactly how much I removed, but I was glad I did it, since it was more than I thought. I rode about 300 miles like that, until I got my Abba stands, to be able to drain it. Stupid dealer couldn't even check oil level properly; frustrating. By the way, I used a magnetic level attached to a front rotor to make sure bike was perfectly vertical, before draining oil; even a bit of angle makes a big difference in oil level window. And same when checking oil level, to more accurately monitor oil consumption. Hope this helps.