fz10minesrdripper
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Posts: 130
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Registered: Jul 5, 2018 21:59:05 GMT -7
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Post by fz10minesrdripper on Oct 4, 2018 8:14:15 GMT -7
What are you guys using to get to the 4mm adjuster for rebound on the bottom of oem rear shock? It's so fricking tight. I can just barely get an allen key on it...and when I do I can only turn it one click at a time basically. I would think you'd be able to come straight in from the side with an extension and get the job done much easier. I can't seem to find any openings for a straight shot at it. There's about 3/4" space between the shock and swingarm...why so tight? I'm probably missing a short cut or the correct way to do this...so here I am asking for help from someone on the forum who has an easy way to adjust it. I feel like I'm going to get an answer and say to myself...I'm an idiot...why didn't I think of that.  |
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Post by RedAndBlack on Oct 4, 2018 11:20:45 GMT -7
I haven't personally messed with it but would unloading the weight off the spring help? Bring it in the garage and use some tie downs attached to your rafters to lift the subframe up and unload the spring. Maybe that would move it away from the swingarm?
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Deleted
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Registered: Apr 24, 2024 19:02:27 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Oct 4, 2018 12:25:26 GMT -7
Just went thru the same thing. Ha ha. I ended up using a regular (L-shape) Craftsman 4mm allen wrench, inserted with the long end, which is the only one that has the rounded end, so you can insert it at a slight angle and work fine. The short end cleared the swingarm perfectly, so I didn't have to remove it for a full turn. Each click is 1/4 turn, by the way, so a full turn is 4 clicks. Anyway, bottomed out the adjustment to check clicks, and it was at the factory setting. So put it back out and added 2 clicks (just like the rest of adjustments), and it's just about perfect for my needs now. Still have to test it at the twisties, but should be fine. It's obviously firm for the street, but I like it that way, and that's the compromise you need for good corner stability. Can't wait to take it there, but it's a 300+ ride, and it's still very freaking hot here (90s). Geez.
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Post by achrista on Oct 4, 2018 13:22:35 GMT -7
yeah, i would think either a ball end hex key (useful for much more than just this job if you don't have one) or alternatively, i may try putting a hex socket on a universal joint and seeing if it fits with an extension bar
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Post by achrista on Oct 4, 2018 13:39:27 GMT -7
I just checked and it's possible with a ball end hex key, but it's a big pita because youre working right up against the frame with no room to get your fingers on the key. This was a lot easier: www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWMT73807-Accessory-Tool-Piece/dp/B00TI74HZK a set like this is probably redundant for most people here, but dewalt has a cheap extension bar/adapter/plug socket expansion set that's great for the price. Can't really recommend the hex sockets as some are corroding pretty quickly, but comparable sets are also cheap on amazon.    makes getting there and making adjustments a breeze. i still haven't adjusted my suspension, but based on the videos i've seen that's the adjuster in question. hopefully i didn't get that wrong. |
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fz10minesrdripper
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Posts: 130
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Registered: Jul 5, 2018 21:59:05 GMT -7
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Post by fz10minesrdripper on Oct 4, 2018 16:52:42 GMT -7
I haven't personally messed with it but would unloading the weight off the spring help? Bring it in the garage and use some tie downs attached to your rafters to lift the subframe up and unload the spring. Maybe that would move it away from the swingarm? I love this...maybe I'll just remove the shock...Ha Ha. I actually have a Ohlins TTX GP...should just throw it on. I just wanted to install all the mods I have all at once and the go for a shake down ride. I don't want to put them on at different times. So I thought I'd try and soften up this crappy suspension and just put it to work for a few months...then dig into the mods during the winter season. Thanks for the idea...I'll have a 500 pound person sit on the bike. |
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fz10minesrdripper
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Posts: 130
Likes: 41
Registered: Jul 5, 2018 21:59:05 GMT -7
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Post by fz10minesrdripper on Oct 4, 2018 16:56:55 GMT -7
Just went thru the same thing. Ha ha. I ended up using a regular (L-shape) Craftsman 4mm allen wrench, inserted with the long end, which is the only one that has the rounded end, so you can insert it at a slight angle and work fine. The short end cleared the swingarm perfectly, so I didn't have to remove it for a full turn. Each click is 1/4 turn, by the way, so a full turn is 4 clicks. Anyway, bottomed out the adjustment to check clicks, and it was at the factory setting. So put it back out and added 2 clicks (just like the rest of adjustments), and it's just about perfect for my needs now. Still have to test it at the twisties, but should be fine. It's obviously firm for the street, but I like it that way, and that's the compromise you need for good corner stability. Can't wait to take it there, but it's a 300+ ride, and it's still very freaking hot here (90s). Geez. Thanks...I'll get it done using one of the suggested methods. Later |
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fz10minesrdripper
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Posts: 130
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Registered: Jul 5, 2018 21:59:05 GMT -7
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Post by fz10minesrdripper on Oct 4, 2018 19:24:49 GMT -7
Just went thru the same thing. Ha ha. I ended up using a regular (L-shape) Craftsman 4mm allen wrench, inserted with the long end, which is the only one that has the rounded end, so you can insert it at a slight angle and work fine. The short end cleared the swingarm perfectly, so I didn't have to remove it for a full turn. Each click is 1/4 turn, by the way, so a full turn is 4 clicks. Anyway, bottomed out the adjustment to check clicks, and it was at the factory setting. So put it back out and added 2 clicks (just like the rest of adjustments), and it's just about perfect for my needs now. Still have to test it at the twisties, but should be fine. It's obviously firm for the street, but I like it that way, and that's the compromise you need for good corner stability. Can't wait to take it there, but it's a 300+ ride, and it's still very freaking hot here (90s). Geez. Thanks...I'll see if I have a ball end allen or buy one. I do have some swivels...so I can try the method achrista mentioned above.
Later...10's rock.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 5, 2018 15:15:52 GMT -7
Forgot they were called 'ball end', but that's exactly what I have, in case it wasn't clear. And my Craftsman is long enough that the other end cleared the frame, so I didn't have to remove it to make full turns. I honestly doubt very much you could feel the 'clicks' with that heavy contraption with the swivel adapter. And I say it because I used that method to bottom out the adjustment. I didn't feel a single click. I knew it wasn't good enough to adjust it back, so tried the L-wrench. Clicks were felt perfectly, and they happen to be exactly 1/4 turn, so at least you now know that. He he. By the way, with all the adjustments I made as my new 'base', bike feels perfect now, but still have to test it at the twisties (hopefully soon). I basically made it 2 clicks/turns softer all around except the rear preload, which left it alone, at least for now. Being only 160, I'm confident I can make the suspension work for me, especially since I won't track the bike.
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fz10minesrdripper
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Posts: 130
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Registered: Jul 5, 2018 21:59:05 GMT -7
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Post by fz10minesrdripper on Oct 5, 2018 19:45:59 GMT -7
Forgot they were called 'ball end', but that's exactly what I have, in case it wasn't clear. And my Craftsman is long enough that the other end cleared the frame, so I didn't have to remove it to make full turns. I honestly doubt very much you could feel the 'clicks' with that heavy contraption with the swivel adapter. And I say it because I used that method to bottom out the adjustment. I didn't feel a single click. I knew it wasn't good enough to adjust it back, so tried the L-wrench. Clicks were felt perfectly, and they happen to be exactly 1/4 turn, so at least you now know that. He he. By the way, with all the adjustments I made as my new 'base', bike feels perfect now, but still have to test it at the twisties (hopefully soon). I basically made it 2 clicks/turns softer all around except the rear preload, which left it alone, at least for now. Being only 160, I'm confident I can make the suspension work for me, especially since I won't track the bike. Cool...I'm buying a long ball end tomorrow. My bike came with a revalved stock shock and the forks were revalved too. I've been riding a long time and have owned around 50 bikes with a 6 year bikeless period due to raising my two kids. I know when suspension works and absorbs all the different bumps the pavement throws at you. This is the worst suspension I've ever experienced on any bike I've owned. Maybe the stock oem is better than this revalved set-up I have. I'm going to go out with it on some pretty soft settings then just work my way through the settings. It's just temporary for some trip around town and to work. I'll be pulling all the oem stuff off in 2-3 months and putting the real deal on my bad boy FZ. It's going to one of the best on the forum. Probably close to 20k invested when I'm done.
P.S. I'm 190lbs now, but I'm back in training to get back to 170lbs. I bought a almost new two piece Dainese T. Laguna Seca Evo Div Estiva size 52...I can barely breath in this thing. RevZilla shows guys weighing 195lbs and 6' tall??? Maybe with a little conditioner and a little less body fat will get the job done and feel good in the riding position. If not I sell them for what I paid and get a size 54. Ripper out  |
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Post by achrista on Oct 5, 2018 21:39:42 GMT -7
you can hear/feel the clicks with a socket/adapter/extension on, and it's pretty intuitive given each click is uniform in travel distance. i will say i always take a chance to buy more tools though -- as long as i know i'll use them going forward.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 6, 2018 9:11:24 GMT -7
My bike came with a revalved stock shock and the forks were revalved too. I bet the previous owner was a lot heavier than you, and needed the revalving. But without specifics on what was done, you're working blindly. You have 2 choices: try to make it work, or start over. If you lose more weight, it's probably going to get worse IMO. At 170, you'd be close to the target weight for suspension tuning, which I think it's 160... which happens to be my weight. But definitely wait until you're where you want to be before changing any parts. Just mess with the settings, like you're doing now. Good luck. By the way, with the changes I made, it feels pretty much the way I like it for aggressive cornering, but have yet to take it to the mountains. Hope to do it next week, before it gets too cold. Still have adjustment left to make it work for my weight. Hope I don't have to mess with rear preload. I've owned a couple dozen new bikes, and never needed to mess with the suspension until this one (too hard). Well, my last 3 bikes had electronic suspension adjustment, so I had the best of both worlds (hard on twisties, softer everywhere else). But without that luxury, I need to have it on the stiff side for aggressive cornering stability, but I like it firm. Just not jarring, like with this bike stock, especially at the rear. But the couple of clicks I added left it where it needs to be. Just need to confirm that with a mountain run. |
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fz10minesrdripper
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Registered: Jul 5, 2018 21:59:05 GMT -7
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Post by fz10minesrdripper on Oct 6, 2018 13:02:19 GMT -7
My bike came with a revalved stock shock and the forks were revalved too. I bet the previous owner was a lot heavier than you, and needed the revalving. But without specifics on what was done, you're working blindly. You have 2 choices: try to make it work, or start over. If you lose more weight, it's probably going to get worse IMO. At 170, you'd be close to the target weight for suspension tuning, which I think it's 160... which happens to be my weight. But definitely wait until you're where you want to be before changing any parts. Just mess with the settings, like you're doing now. Good luck. By the way, with the changes I made, it feels pretty much the way I like it for aggressive cornering, but have yet to take it to the mountains. Hope to do it next week, before it gets too cold. Still have adjustment left to make it work for my weight. Hope I don't have to mess with rear preload. I've owned a couple dozen new bikes, and never needed to mess with the suspension until this one (too hard). Well, my last 3 bikes had electronic suspension adjustment, so I had the best of both worlds (hard on twisties, softer everywhere else). But without that luxury, I need to have it on the stiff side for aggressive cornering stability, but I like it firm. Just not jarring, like with this bike stock, especially at the rear. But the couple of clicks I added left it where it needs to be. Just need to confirm that with a mountain run. He just put better valving/new shim stacks etc. It has the stock spring still. Reading the Stoltec report on the oem shock pretty much says this shock is poorly designed and has little hope of ever being anywhere near as good as some other bikes oem shocks. So maybe the comp was way to stiff, sag wrong etc . Apparently the stock spring is borderline with riders weighing 190lbs. My FZ1 has a very stiff spring for the street...I have it set-up for the track...it rides like a Cadillac over the bumps compared to the FZ10 shock. I'm going to go out with super soft settings just to see if I can getting it working for slow paced riding/commuting then slowly stiffen it up to a tolerable setting and reasonable handling at moderate pace. Read the Stoltec write up on this shock...it's circuitry that's all messed up...cheap shock. I'm almost 100% sure it'll never get anywhere near what my expectations are...Ohlins going on in 2-3 months...problem solved. If I can get the sag set right and the shock working just a little better than it is currently...this will at least save my back until the Ohlins goes on. From what I've read so far on the forum...it's not just under sprung...it's just crappy. The weird thing is some people love it and take it to the track etc. I have no faith in this unit. My 1983 Honda V45 Interceptor had superior suspension bone stock. I still think this will be one of the best bikes I've ever owned once geometry, suspension and throttle are dialed in. Later, |
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ratlab
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Registered: May 8, 2017 18:23:07 GMT -7
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Post by ratlab on Oct 10, 2018 12:25:08 GMT -7
don't waste time with the stock shock-softening it up just makes it wallow,hop and chatter.scary,throw that ohlins on and don't look back.it really transforms the bike,you can get away with the stock front.i revalved,resprung front and it's pretty good.bike loves torro rosso 2 tires imho.i'm on mines road quite a bit,maybe see you at the junction.
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Post by achrista on Oct 10, 2018 14:48:37 GMT -7
is there a secondary market to sell the OEM shock (e.g. will it fit in an FZ07/FZ09 which truly need suspension upgrades) and if so how much will it sell for? edit: n/m after looking at ebay, the market clearing price is <$82 for a used unit. not enough to offset any of the cost of an upgrade. |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 10, 2018 16:33:35 GMT -7
You could always try. I was also wondering if there's any market for my stock exhaust can with only 6 miles on it. And for a stock seat, once I buy a comfort one. It'll have less than 50 miles on it. Thx.
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mandroid
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Registered: Jul 24, 2019 21:39:53 GMT -7
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Post by mandroid on Jul 28, 2019 7:34:59 GMT -7
For anyone still wondering the best way to adjust rebound on the stock shock, get an extended 4mm ball-end screwdriver like the Bondhus 10760. With 180mm of reach, it fits right through the smaller hole in the footpeg bracket and makes the adjustment very easy.
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