APE Manual Cam Chain Tensioner for FZ/MT-10

There were no printed instructions with mine, however I asked some questions while on the phone just to get professional opinions on the removal/re-install.  It's absolutely simple if you follow the video guides below. 

I just followed the R1 how-to's on Youtube and it's literally the exact same thing to untie your FZ/MT shoes.  Bear in mind that the crank gear may look different to our FZ/MT, and our FZ/MT TDC marks will be a very obvious circle and triangle indicators on the crank sprocket and inner case that you want to line up.  Some say that's unnecessary, but in the interest of not chancing anything I lined up TDC and shimmed the cam chain BEFORE removing the stock CCT.  Re-install is the reverse, so you're just tying your shoes back up in the same steps.  This is perhaps a 30 minute job if you include getting your tools and putting them away afterwards.

The following two videos explain thoroughly how to set tension and adjust from there.  Hope this helps!



Ignore the guy sounding like Darth Vader, he is pretty thorough, though.




Here's another.  

Unfortunately, being under a time constraint due to a weekend ride I had to make, I didn't note the tool sizes, but if memory serves me it's just a 5mm hex key/hex socket and 14mm (I think??) socket and ratchet to crank to TDC. The APE MCCT has a smaller inner hex to adjust the tensioner bolt. It's a 3 or 4mm. I will update this post with accurate sizing on all except crank bolt size as I will not be reopening the case unless absolutely necessary!


NOTE: *COMPLETE THIS REPAIR WITH BIKE ON SIDESTAND/KICKSTAND* (you will lose a lot more oil if on a track stand or workstand that keeps the bike vertical!!)

1. Place rag or paper towel on floor below case and oil feed line to catch any drips. Remove aluminum oil feed line from lower right side of crank sprocket case cover.
2. Remove crank sprocket case cover. Take note of the condition of the case cover gasket. Replace if damaged.
**After/during steps 1 & 2 you may lose a couple of ounces of oil retained in the case cover area, nothing to be concerned with. Top off as necessary once repair is completed.**
3. Identify TDC marks (circle and triangle stamped into case and crank sprocket) and use appropriate socket/ratchet to crank to TDC (clockwise). You will feel tension on the crank bolt vary slightly as you crank around to TDC. You want to stop when the circle and triangle icons are aligned. If you miss perfect alignment of the timing marks, keep cranking another revolution until they are aligned. Take your time!
4. Shim cam chain on left side between chain and case wall. Use a rubber handle of a small screwdriver, pliers, etc...only need enough to hold some tension on the chain while removing the CCT so that there's no chance of the chain going slack, jumping a tooth, and going out of timing. Don't force anything. You only need enough pressure to hold the chain steady.
5. Remove the two mounting bolts on the stock CCT and slide out of its home along with gasket for inspection
6. Install new CCT gasket and manual CCT of your choice. Loosen the jam nut and tensioner bolt first. Secure the two mounting bolts. Dial the tensioner bolt in finger tight (clockwise) until you feel tension and it stops turning easily. Lock the jam nut now.
7. Remove your improvised shim from between the cam chain and case, carefully reinstall the case cover and oil feed line. If you notice the cam tensioner bow on the left slid down slightly you can back off tension on the CCT slightly until you can raise the bow enough to align the guide pins in the case and chain bows. Don't be alarmed, this happened to me and it goes right back on no problem! Just don't ham fist anything. If it doesn't go back together easily something is off. Your eyes will save you the time, money, and troubles that your impatient hands will often cost you!
8. Fire it up and listen to the sound. If it whirrs it's too tight, loosen the jam nut and back off tension a bit at a time until it quiets down. Lock it when it goes silent.  If it ticks/clacks your tension is too loose and you will want to add tension until the ticking subsides.

This is all from memory last week, so my apologies for any improper terms, descriptions, or tool sizing. As usual, you're on your own with DIY!

Yes, I agree.