jasontechpro
New Member
I sure am glad to be back on a sport bike!
Posts: 13
Likes: 7
Registered: May 2, 2018 8:55:57 GMT -7
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Post by jasontechpro on May 15, 2018 17:21:15 GMT -7
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je972
New Member
Posts: 5
Likes: 3
Registered: Mar 19, 2018 13:14:13 GMT -7
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Post by je972 on May 15, 2018 18:44:27 GMT -7
Mine is currently in the mail. Cant wait to get it. Thanks for the great write-up on installation. Definetly will be cutting the rod as instructed. Saw a video where a guy just re-clocked the arm on the shift shaft without cutting.
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Post by evitzee on May 15, 2018 20:16:24 GMT -7
Cutting it is a simple proposition, you can do it with a Dremel but if you don't have one just use a mini-hacksaw which you can get at Walmart for a couple of bucks. Took me about 10 minutes to cut through the rod. As always, measure twice and cut once.
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mrhix
Full Member
Posts: 119
Likes: 58
Registered: Sept 11, 2016 19:24:17 GMT -7
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Post by mrhix on May 15, 2018 20:31:24 GMT -7
I found it easier to remove the shift rod using the screws that go through the top & bottom Heim joints rather than removing the top shift arm.
Cheers,
MrHix
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daveinwoodland
Full Member
Posts: 215
Likes: 83
Registered: Mar 13, 2017 12:30:04 GMT -7
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Post by daveinwoodland on May 16, 2018 18:38:01 GMT -7
Yeah, I saw that video too and thought "Why wouldn't you follow the directions? If I remember as well he didn't use the included clip to secure the wiring either. That kind of summed up how smart I thought he was so I cut mine as instructed and used the included clip. Also just an FYI if you do remove the shift arm there is a line etched on it that you want to line up when you reinstall it.
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Deleted
Posts: 0
Registered: Apr 25, 2024 8:49:36 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Oct 9, 2018 10:52:48 GMT -7
Hey guys, first a techincal question: How do you deactivate the QS from the dash, if you want to? Do the same procedure to activate it, or something else? Just curious about that in case it ever acts up; that way I can quickly deactivate it.
Now to my comments. I should receive the QS at any time now. I'll measure the QS against the stock rod. If I can leave the rod longer, meaning less exposed threads, I'll do that too. I want to leave enough threads for some adjustment, but I personally think the black rod looks better (or less worse) than freaking threads, but that's just me. The entire rod might not fit well, but I'm suspecting at least I could cut it at the lower mark without any ill effects. I also don't plan to remove the shift arm if at all possible. Can't put a torque wrench there, so rather leave it alone. My first thought is to basically fuse the device to the rod, meaning almost no exposed threads; just enough to tighten the locknut. Don't understand why you need to leave THREE adjustment points. Just leaving the upper and lower with the same exposed threads as OEM is enough. Or maybe even a bit less threads, since if you ever adjust the shifter, it'd be way less than even just one of the adjustments. Will scrutinize it when I do the installation, before rendering further judgment. But common sense dictates if you can leave the rod contraption as the same size as stock, and with some adjustability, it's a matter or preference how you do it. In fact, with less threads showing, it'd be more solid, and look better, so don't see any negatives. I'll come back and comment when I'm done.
Just one question: Any potential issues using the QS with the 1-2 shift? Or better just use it above 2nd? Thx.
Finally, does anybody have a link to that 'bad' video you're talking about? Want to have another perspective. He he. And couldn't find anything on Youtube. Thanks.
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Post by clayton on Oct 9, 2018 11:35:43 GMT -7
Hey guys, first a techincal question: How do you deactivate the QS from the dash, if you want to? Do the same procedure to activate it, or something else? Just curious about that in case it ever acts up; that way I can quickly deactivate it. Now to my comments. I should receive the QS at any time now. I'll measure the QS against the stock rod. If I can leave the rod longer, meaning less exposed threads, I'll do that too. I want to leave enough threads for some adjustment, but I personally think the black rod looks better (or less worse) than freaking threads, but that's just me. The entire rod might not fit well, but I'm suspecting at least I could cut it at the lower mark without any ill effects. I also don't plan to remove the shift arm if at all possible. Can't put a torque wrench there, so rather leave it alone. My first thought is to basically fuse the device to the rod, meaning almost no exposed threads; just enough to tighten the locknut. Don't understand why you need to leave THREE adjustment points. Just leaving the upper and lower with the same exposed threads as OEM is enough. Or maybe even a bit less threads, since if you ever adjust the shifter, it'd be way less than even just one of the adjustments. Will scrutinize it when I do the installation, before rendering further judgment. But common sense dictates if you can leave the rod contraption as the same size as stock, and with some adjustability, it's a matter or preference how you do it. In fact, with less threads showing, it'd be more solid, and look better, so don't see any negatives. I'll come back and comment when I'm done. Just one question: Any potential issues using the QS with the 1-2 shift? Or better just use it above 2nd? Thx. Finally, does anybody have a link to that 'bad' video you're talking about? Want to have another perspective. He he. And couldn't find anything on Youtube. Thanks. Don’t think u can turn it off. You will probably just have to unplug it |
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Post by evitzee on Oct 9, 2018 11:44:05 GMT -7
Not sure how you deactivate it. Even if the QS acts up or quits working it won't cause any problems. As soon as you pull the clutch lever the QS is deactivated so if it somehow broke the shift system will operate in manual mode, no issues. I have no issues using it in the 1-2 shift as long as you are accelerating.
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Deleted
Posts: 0
Registered: Apr 25, 2024 8:49:36 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Oct 9, 2018 12:04:45 GMT -7
I have no issues using it in the 1-2 shift as long as you are accelerating. Excellent. Thank you. I guess we just have to shift more positive, to avoid hitting neutral, I'd guess. But we have to do that even with the clutch, so should be an automatic reflex. Found the video via google on another forum. I don't need to adjust the shifter any lower either, but as you probably know by now, like things to fit, work, and look OEM, so leaving the rod at full length wouldn't cut it for me. But I'm almost sure I can cut it at the lower notch, and still be a hair shorter than the stock rod. What I don't like is having THREE adjustment points. We only need two. Will decide which one to loctite in place, so the shifter can be adjusted like stock. It makes more sense to loctite (blue) the switch bottomed-out at the top, leaving the exposed threads above and below the black rod. That way, no need to disconnect the switch to adjust the lever height. Just looked at the shifter, and it makes no sense to remove the shift arm. I'll remove both black bolts under both rubber boots, make the new contraption exactly the same length, and put it back. Will also measure the height of the shift lever from the floor as a second check. Wonder why Yamaha wanted to remove the arm. Anyway, will post a pic and final thoughts after I get it later today  . |
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Deleted
Posts: 0
Registered: Apr 25, 2024 8:49:36 GMT -7
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Post by Deleted on Oct 9, 2018 17:43:51 GMT -7
I'm done. Few observations. 1. There's no need to remove ANY bolts whatsoever folks. All I did was back out both locking nuts from the stock rod, and it came right out. 2. The stock rod is right between the middle and lower notch of the black rod/switch combo. You can actually install it without cutting anything, but would have left it maxed out at all 3 adjustments. Didn't want that for a factory look, so cut it at the last notch. There's absolutely no reason to cut it at the middle one. It only leaves a lot of threads, making the rigidity of the unit less robust. I sanded down the cut to perfection (then painted black with a sharpie), so ate maybe 1mm from the notch. It's the perfect length, and it still left waaay more adjustment than you'd ever need. So you can have an idea how much adjustment you need, half a turn of the rod moves the shift lever a whopping 1/2". With my longer rod, I still have about 4 turns of adjustment. It actually has more, but wanted the upper and lower exposed rod to look the same, so it only has 4 above, but like 8 below (hidden by the boot). There's no way anybody would use anything close to 1/2 turn, let alone 4 or more, so Yamaha should have stated to cut the rod at the lower notch. But it's your call folks. Looks much more OEM like I did it . 3. Didn't bottom out the top adjustment, since I wanted the boot fitted properly, so I tightened it right where the nut was against the boot. There're about 4 turns above the nut, so they ended up being pretty much evenly distributed, but the switch shows no treads, which is exactly the look I wanted. Unit is super sollid. Oh, and didn't have to loctite that rod. I simply wouldn't loosen that nut if I ever need to adjust it. 4. Removed the blue tape, and routed the cable thru the back, fed the wire thru the bracket, and ziptied the wire to the unused hole right above the left bolt of the bracket securing the wire harness at the back, so that cable has TWO stress relief points now. Installation looks absolutely OEM now . 5. You can deactivate the QS if you want folks, like in case you just don't want to use it (like if you want to upshift without the clutch, by closing the throttle momentarily), want to sell it, or whatever. You do the exact same procedure and the QS goes away (yes, I tried it). Then I put it back on. By the way, the stupid lever requires more pressure than I wanted to apply, but until I did that, it didn't want to activate it. I assume no harm done, since we probably apply way more pressure with our foot than by hand. If it doesn't activate, hopefully that's your problem. Hope this helps.   |
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