latte
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Registered: Jan 19, 2017 2:06:59 GMT -7
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Post by latte on May 2, 2018 17:39:31 GMT -7
Had a R6 master handy and went to see if the cruise control/brake switch bolts up to it like we see on the 15+ R1 Nissin master cylinders and what do you know- switch drops right in. This is off of a 2011 R6 non-S model, I believe 2006-2016 are the same. Should work with our calipers nicely as they are the same units on the R6. You would just need to use the screw off your fz10 when fastening the switch since the part is thicker than the r6 switch. Good alternative to the R1 mc if you prefer Brembo or find one of these for cheaper. Looking at it some more- Probably need to use ss lines since the banjo is not in a stock-ish position. Below the mc as opposed to in front.   |
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xxscaxx
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Registered: Jun 23, 2017 7:55:25 GMT -7
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Post by xxscaxx on May 3, 2018 7:24:51 GMT -7
This is good info, wonder what stoltecmoto thinks of this in comparison to the R1 MC. I'd imagine the modification to the switch is needed just as he outlines in his build thread as well in order to get the CC and brake light working correctl. |
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ramage
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Registered: Feb 5, 2018 10:53:59 GMT -7
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Post by ramage on May 3, 2018 8:39:13 GMT -7
Thanks for sharing! Would the R6 master be an improvement over the FZ-10 master? And then how would that compare to an R1 master? You mentioned getting SS lines, is there enough slack in those kits to still work with a new R6 master if it was made for the fz-10?
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Post by RedAndBlack on May 3, 2018 9:06:34 GMT -7
Thanks for sharing! Would the R6 master be an improvement over the FZ-10 master? And then how would that compare to an R1 master? You mentioned getting SS lines, is there enough slack in those kits to still work with a new R6 master if it was made for the fz-10? I'm not Op but I did the upgrade from the stock MC to a radial 2015+ R1 Master Cylinder (MC)
The stock MC is an "Axial" MC, the R1 Master Cylinder and Brembo's MCs are what is called, "radial" MCs. All this means is that the "plunger" that causes the braking force runs parallel to the brake lever rather than perpendicular to the lever like the stock Axial MC does. Additionally, radial MCs are usually designed a little more with performance in mind, so radial MCs usually contain better quality parts, machining, and design vs Axial MCs which are usually more cost effective.
This improves feel and rigidity of the MC since the force being applies to the lever is being applies to the plunger and the brake fluid all in the same direction. If you're like me, who does only Canyon Carving and track, you easily start to notice why this is so important. A casual commuter, maybe not as much. But in my opinion, MOST riders are extremely underskilled in braking on a motorcycle so such an upgrade would benefit everybody for the same reason that bikes with ABS have a third less fatality rate than non-ABS brakes. As riders, we need all the help we can get with braking. I'm getting off topic, but we also need to help ourselves and routinely practice emergency braking.
ANYWAY, As I describe the stock axial MC, to me you never knew what you were going to get when pulling back on the lever. Either too much braking force or not enough. To me, the stock MC was very inconsistent and because of this inconsistency, it makes it harder to do "progressive" braking vs stabbing the brakes to stop. What I mean by progressive braking can be described like pulling the trigger on a gun. For best effect and accuracy, you want a smooth but consistent trigger pull. If you "stab" the trigger back, you're going to be inaccurate. And if the trigger on the gun has an inconsistent feel everytime you pull it, it gets hard for you to get used to it and smoothly pull back the trigger, especially in a high stress and emergency situation.
I personally also did the steel braided brake lines and a brake pad upgrade. I had heard that you could bend the "O" portion of the stock brake lines that attach to the MC (Can't remember what its called) to make it fit, but it would be a tight fit. I decided just to do the full upgrade and am extremely happy with the results. My FZ brakes better than my track bike that has a Brembo Master Cylinder without steel braided brake lines.
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Post by stoltecmoto on May 3, 2018 18:01:03 GMT -7
This is good info, wonder what stoltecmoto thinks of this in comparison to the R1 MC. I'd imagine the modification to the switch is needed just as he outlines in his build thread as well in order to get the CC and brake light working correctl. The R6 unit is great and is functionally identical to the 09-14 R1, too. If you're buying new, I'd stick with the 15+ R1, though. About half the price as the R6! |
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ramage
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Post by ramage on May 3, 2018 18:45:36 GMT -7
Thanks for the input and write up RedandBlack, that is definitely useful information for me. I was reading through some of your old posts when trying to figure out what I was going to do about the brakes and the R1 master cylinder seems like my best bet. When you ordered your SS lines, did you select fitment for the FZ-10 or the R1? I did already swap for sintered pads and was happy with that until I felt the stock brakes on my buddies R6. That feel right there. That's the feel I want.
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xxscaxx
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Post by xxscaxx on May 4, 2018 9:04:07 GMT -7
ramage - Hit up Nick from stoltecmoto. They sell a package specifically designed for the 10 that comes with everything you basically need to do the r1 MC swap. This is what I did. My bike is still apart for other various reasons but the brake lines and such are all in. I came off an R6 snd the first immediate difference for me was the brakes. They are just plain mushy when being compared to a sportbike. I'm very excited to see what the new setup is all about once my bike is back together. |
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latte
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Post by latte on May 6, 2018 16:48:32 GMT -7
Thanks for sharing! Would the R6 master be an improvement over the FZ-10 master? And then how would that compare to an R1 master? You mentioned getting SS lines, is there enough slack in those kits to still work with a new R6 master if it was made for the fz-10? Already a lot of good info from everyone! Stock lines wise, no I don't think there would be enough slack. Best to try using the 15+ R1 master if you're trying to use the stock lines. Requires less of a kink since the banjo mount is in front of the master rather than beneath. |
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latte
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Posts: 198
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Registered: Jan 19, 2017 2:06:59 GMT -7
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Post by latte on May 6, 2018 16:50:11 GMT -7
This is good info, wonder what stoltecmoto thinks of this in comparison to the R1 MC. I'd imagine the modification to the switch is needed just as he outlines in his build thread as well in order to get the CC and brake light working correctl. There's a different degree of slop in a couple masters I've seen, stoltecmoto's fix is great. You can also grind or file away a little material off where the lever contacts the switch, it mechanically achieves the same thing. |
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Post by RedAndBlack on May 6, 2018 18:50:06 GMT -7
Thanks for the input and write up RedandBlack, that is definitely useful information for me. I was reading through some of your old posts when trying to figure out what I was going to do about the brakes and the R1 master cylinder seems like my best bet. When you ordered your SS lines, did you select fitment for the FZ-10 or the R1? I did already swap for sintered pads and was happy with that until I felt the stock brakes on my buddies R6. That feel right there. That's the feel I want. No problem. I purchased the R1 master from a friend with the brake reservoir. I got levers and SS lines from Stoltecmoto. Obviously you have to get R1 lever for the master if you prefer aftermarket levers. Nick from Stoletec knew what the SS lines length needed to be since he did the upgrade and he offers awesome customer service so it was easy to deal with him. My concern with buying SS lines for an FZ is they might be a little shorter than needed because they attach in a different area and at a different angle on the R1 master than they do on the stock master . I absolutely live by SBS brake pads. Check out Stoltecmoto build thread about the upgrade. In there he details how to either shave down or modify the brake switch because the brake light becomes a little bit delayed with the R1 master. That's about the only downside of the R1 but was easily remedied with Stoltecmoto method of modifying the interior of the brake switch . I also had to figure out how to mount the R1 brake reservoir. I used a ladybird mount from kurveygirl.com. Took it to a guy I know that could bend it for me in the location I wanted for like $5 |
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