Anyone have issues with grabby clutch

Yep i have noticed that, i have to manoeuvre back and forth to get my bike out, and have found that when i start the engine if i pull the clutch in a pumping motion at least five or six times it makes the clutch work as it should.

Had that prob with the break in oil, once I put Castrol power 1 10w50 in, that went away, idled better and revved way better. I'll never run anything else.

Yes, I experienced this also

Yes, I live in Phoenix Az as well. Like you said, it's usually just the first time or two taking off after first starting the bike. Although this is my 35th motorcycle and I have never experienced this kind of behavior before. I've stalled it a few times considering this bikes need a little slipping when taking off and when it grabs instead of slipping. A little frustrating because it's usually when you are trying to time the space between cars to pull out. But once you've ridden a mile or so, all the other takeoffs are pretty normal.

Actually glad I found this thread as I have been having the same thing and thought it was just me or my bike. It’s a right pain, as I find it stalls at the worst moment, generally just after leaving work and stuck between cars after filtering as far as I can until the gap gets too narrow.

Then when it stalls it must slightly flood the engine as it’s hard to start after a stall, but it will start on the button, instantly if I turn it off properly via key or kill switch. Worst time to stall and have a hard starting bike is when sitting between 2 lanes of traffic as the lights change to green.

My bike only has 1500 miles on it, bought it with 750 miles on it, (ex demo), so might be me still getting used to it as I am stalling it less than I used to when I first got it, but damn, I haven’t stalled any bike since passing my driving test several years ago and now this bike seems so easy to stall for the first 1-2 miles until everything is warmed up.

At least I can see it’s not just a problem with me or my bike and seems to be one of those traits of the bike. I guess it is effectively a race (R1) engine and not inherently designed to deal with stop/start traffic.

If you're not tracking your bikes, there's no need for the heavy stuff. Try 10/40 and it should go back to normal. I live in hot TX too, and such heavy oil only creates more friction and heat if you don't really beat up on the motor. I'm actively looking for a black ('17) FZ-10, since they were not made in 2018. Hope to find one at a good price soon. Most I've found want '18 (or more) money for them. Crazy.

I've been using Motul with no issues, I have to admit that Suzuki shifting and clutch smoothness is far superior to the FZ10.  My last 2 bikes were Gixxers and they have almost telepathic shifting compared to the Yamaha crashbox that I have now, I'm used to it now but it took me some time plus now I have a quickshifter to play with.

I've had a myriad of Yamahas and I find the -10's clutch action super nice. Light pull, progressive engagement, easy to find neutral, best tranny feel of all the Yamaha's I've owned. I start the bike up in my driveway, warm it up 30 seconds then have a short 1000 ft distance to the gates where I have to stop and wait for them to open, than another 500 ft to the stoplight, then I'm off to the races where I won't have to stop for at least 20 miles but have not noticed any grabbiness at all when cold. Perhaps your clutch cables need a bit of adjustment. I do find the clutch engagement to be fairly quick as you let out the clutch, but I prefer that.  If you are used to a more leisurely clutch engagement I could see how you might be prone to stalling the engine.  I like the -10's action, I'd call it precise, it wants to get on with the program.

I'm used to fast-grabbing clutches, and that's the way I like them, so seems the FZ-10 would be a good partner there. Made one last ditch effort to get the only local black FZ but doubt it'll get anywhere. Was expecting an answer today, but didn't hear from them. Hopefully tomorrow, to move on if needed.